LONDON-FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LII, Issue 15930, 29 May 1915, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON-FASHION NOTES.

The ' Fitted Bodice.

Prepare yourself for the fitted bodice. Ultra-fashionable gowns have them, so they will be popularised by another season. Yes, they are veritable basque fash- ! ions, with seams of tho old-fashioned sort used in the basque days. One of: the very smartest gowns seen so far, and one that seemed to meet with the approval of every woman who saw it, has all tho traditional fitted pieces. There was a ccntro back seam, curved side back seams from the armhole, under arm seams, and little curved darts under the bust to simulate tho old-fashioned curving ' in lines. Such a stylo is, of course, more or less tentative. It is an ultra or extreme fashion. Still, it is far from being the only one of the sort. Wide girdles, the upper edge often placed above the bust, whilo the lower edge comes well down past the waist-line, swathe the figure in a number of the new models and gives to' this new fitted look. This is but a conservative manner of arriving at tho samo result and indicates in another fashion the pacing of the bloused corsage. The New Coats. The new coats show an extraordinary variety of length. Many come only a little below the waist-line, while many others are of medium length. There is one thing, in which there seems concurrence of opinion among dressmakers, and that in in the complete discarding of the shawl collar. In place of it wa havo various upright notions, a plain military collar being very useful; but I think the smartest thing is a high turnover collar which comes only at the back. This is generally faced with something attractive, a silk patterned with blue and peach pink flowers being chosen for a clay-coloured suit; while a similar high collar on a coat of dove-grey corded suiting was faced with suede. Another popular collar is the sailor shape, the collar of the blouse worn underneath supplying the necessary height at the back. Pockets are seen on both coat and skirts. often decorated with buttons, indeed buttons are quite important, and though not lavishly used, often give a distinctive touch. Many of the short coats have sleeves coming only halfway down the forearm, and "in an example of thjs vogue a row of fivo dome-shaped buttons placed close together made a most effective trimming. The notion for cutting shoulder and sleeve in one, shows no signs of departing, as one notices ifrooth in the short smart coat and in the useful wrap. ; Waistcoats aro a good deal worn and are ■very becoming if made of thick, dead white ribbed silk, in some cases a touch of colour being given in the buttons on •them. ,

£, ' A Popular Suit. -..One of the most popular feminine suits to.;wear in the world of outdoor sports is the" belted coat with a skirt that can be worn as a plain or a divided one. This has now become what is called a "classic" models,for it changes only in the details from season to season. Some seasons the coat has the Norfolk pleated jacket effect, sometimes the collar and revers are cut higher or lower, three, four, or five buttons , fasten it,pockets are larger or smaller. All. these detailr are trifling; the economical woman generally wears this suit several seasons, while the fashionable woman changes her suit. almost as often as the details change. .There. are several of thssa models to choose from each season,..some little detail that makes them better- for one athletic. sport than another deciding the choice. Another very smart suit is cut without Norfolk pleats on the coat and with large extensible flap pockets. A loose belt encircles the waist a little above the'hips.'/ The coat fastens just one side of the centre front and the closing is rather high. \ The skirt buttons . from waist "to hem both back and front, and it can be changed into divided skirts by re-buttoning each front edge to each back edge, buttons and buttonholes being arranged to allow this, A small hat of the; same material or one matching is worn with such suite and is made with a rolling brim, heavily stitched to shape