THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LII, Issue 15884, 3 April 1915, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

The heat and moisture in the soil has produced an abundant crop of seedlings of every description, with weeds predominating. Soft-wooded plants have started into vigorous growth, consequently the beds and borders present a somewhat neglected appearance, necessitating an overhaul and general tidying up. Carefully hand-weed amongst seedlings, at the same time thinning them out to suitable distances apart. ' Hardy Flowering Bulbs and Flowers. Anemones, ranunculi, and other hardyflowering bulbs that are above ground should be weeded and have the surface soil around them lightly stirred. Petunias require to be cut well back to enable them to break into fresh and more compact growth. Verbenas also need the straggling shoots reduced to keep the plants within bounds and to produce healthy new growths, Young plants of these may be obtained by taking off shoots with roots attached, as they rout into the soil at the joints- Solidagos, or golden rods, Michaelmas daisies, and other herbaceous plants that have done flowering should have the old (lower stalks nit back to the surface of the ground. The Zonale Family. Ivy-leaved geraniums and those belonging to the zonale section should have all the dead leaves picked and the growths reduced and regulated. The zonules should be cut well back, as they will then have time to make fresh growth before the cold winter season sets in. Smaller-growing Shrubs. Several of these need attention in the way of cutting back straggling shoots. After completing the weeding and thinning and cutting back flower stalks of those that are past and reducing and regulating the growths of those plants that need trimming, lightly fork or dig amongst the plant'. This is necessary, as the soil is now too moist to get rid of weeds in the usual way by hoeing. A thorough overhaul at this season places the garden in a neat tidy condition, and enables seedlings, bulbs, petunias, verbenas, and several other varieties to make •i good start before the winter weather sets in. Lawns and Grass Plots. Heavy rains have thoroughly settled the soil, causing depressions in newly- | made lawns where there, have been dee]) fillings. Fresh levels must be taken and all inequalities rectified to produce an even and level surface. Choose a fine dav and a fairly dry surface fur towing tho grass seeds. THE ROCKERY. In every garden of any importance a rockery is now considered essential. It is interesting at all seasons, always providing a variety of foliage and flowers. This style of gardening allows for the natural requirements of so many varieties and species, of plants that cannot he successfully grown in the ordinary beds and borders, where the soil becomes too wet and sodden during a portion of our winter season ; whereas in the properly constructed rockery ample drainage may be provided, as well as partial protection from the weather. Warm, sunny positions may be allotted to those that need warmth, and cool, shady plates for others. In fact, a variety of conditions, both in temperature and soils, may be had. Receptacles.' large or small, and pockets may be filled with soils best suited to tile requirements of the different species. Plants lor Rock Gardens. At this season the rock garden also needs attention, as many of the stronger growing plants have outgrown their allotted spaces. Polygonum repens, fuchsia I roeumbens. ccrastiums, vittaderiias. some of the stronger growing mesembryanthemums, ivy-leaved pelargoniums, and others require more or less trimming and reducing their dimensions. Some of the. old plants may be taken out to give place to others. Cyclamens do exceedingly well in the rockery and are most appropriate, now being a good timo to plant them. The soil for cyclamens should be fairly lich. with powdered . cow manure and some coarse sharp sand suits then; admirably. Anemones, ranunculus, some' varieties of daffodils, freesias, and«several other bulbs thrive well and are su.table. Quite a number of annuals, notably antirrhinums, candy tui'ts, cinerarias, linums, Hemophilus, dimorphothecas, iicmesias, etc., produce an early and most effective display when planted in suitable positions amongst the rocks.. THE ORCHARD. Planting Fruit 'frees. As the season is rapidly approaching for the transplanting of fruit and other trees, no time should lie lost in having the soil thoroughly cultivated and all necessary preparations made that will facilitate the work of planting when once it is started. In the laying out of new orchards, particularly in bind (hat has been in the I virgin state lor years, .here are many matters requiring attention before the work of planting can be satisfactorily preceded with, such as fencing, draining, and making provision fur shelter, as wed a placing too soil in situ condition as will cosine lutuiv success. fencing Orchirds. In new ground fenciig is an indispensable operation, and should be attended to as soon as the land la cleared, certainly before any attempt is made lit planting. tins ought newr to be considered a point of minor importance, as a few stray sheep or cattle will in a few hours destroy the labour of weeks if the trees are lett unprotected, 'the next important operation is drainage. A free outlet for surplus moisture is necessary in the cultivation of fruit, or, in fact, most varieties of tiees. Few varieties ol trees can thrive in soil where stagnant water is allowed to accumulate, as it prevents the development of the roots .so necessary to healthy growth. The amount ol precaution required will depend upon the nature of the ground treated. Draining Orchard Soils. In soils of a gritty nature, with a free porous subsoil, artificial draining is not needed. In the majority of cases, however, particularly in the northern districts, the land selected is mostly of a stiff, retentive nature. This has proved to be excellently adapted for the cultivation of most varieties of fruit, pip fruits in particular being produced of the finest quality. Such land naturally requires more attention in the matter of draining than fight, porous land, though the latter is by no means the best for apple or pear culture. One thing is certain, that, whatever the nature of the land, there must be a free outlet fur surplus moisture. In stiff lands, with a (lav sub-soil, it is economy to have the soil thoroughly drained before planting. Benefits of Draining. The effect of draining may not be felt all at once, but the removal of injurious gases from the soil and the addition of several degrees of warmth to the soil will gradually stimulate healthy root action and vigorous top growth will result. In laying out the ground for draining, whether they bo pipe or rubble drains, it,

is necessary to examine the inclination of the- ground so that the main drains may have the advantage of all the fall possible. The distance apart of the- main drains must be regulated bv the nature of the ground. In land that is undulating and natural declivities exist 200 to even 300 vards apart will suffice. The smaller or . tributary drains should he placed, accord- , ing to the nature of the ground, from 25ft to 35ft apart; in wet ground it should not 1 exceed 25ft. Branch Drains. The size of the side-drains will depend upon their length. If not extending more than lOOvds. ljin pipes "ill meet requirements ; if much longer, the nest size pipe should he used. In taking out the drains it is important that the entire length of each Ride-drain is taken out before the pines are laid, and a nice smooth bottom made for the pipes, with sufficient fall that there will be no check in the How. he advantage of judicious draining must be apparent to the most casual observer, Mr trees growing near the side of a drain, whether it is open or closed, are genera ly found to be thriving and making healthy o IO «th while those growing in stiff, undraincd laud, with a certain amount o stagnant water about the roots, make but little progress, and in a short, time become stunted in growth and covered Willi moss and other parasitical growths peculiar to tiees in undrained landKr.rns. HINTS TO GARDENERS, Crowing a succession of vegetable* or (lowers makes a big drain upon the leitivity of all soils. 'I he richest volcanic soils can be quickly exhausted if crops are taker off and manures not put in. The foundations of successful gardening he in deep and thorough cultivation, practical manuring, and good drainage. Humus is one of the necessities of a good garden soil, and one which quickly disappears unless compost, stable manure, or green manure arc used The poorest clave in the Auckland distiict can be made into rich garden soils by the use of fertilisers, lime, green manure, and by careful cultivation. The most important manures for gardens are nitrogen, phosphoric acid, ami potash. Lime, sulphur, and iron are essential as a support to manures. Lark of nitrogen in the soil is denoted by stunted growth of foliage or by its dull-looking or yellowish colour. Addition of nitrogenous" fertilisers increases the I growth of foliage ill flowers and shrubs, lapid'.v develops cabbages, cauliflowers, lettuce, and similar vegetables. Nitrogen can be most cheaply and beneficially supplied by growing and digging in legumes, in the shape of clovers, peas, etc., lor (his method supplies humus as well as nitrogen, but nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia, nitrolim, and blood and bones can be used with great benefit. Phosphoric acid is supplied by superphosphate, basic slag, basic superphosphate, and ground bones. Phosphoric acid is usually short in garden soils, being drawn upon by all plant life. The manures mentioned can be supplied with advantage to all classes of soil, unless they happen to be sour, badly drained, or acidic, and they nil have a beneficial effect on nearly every class of plant life. Potash assists wonderfully the growth and flavour of fruits right through from apples to grapes. It increases the weight ot potatoes, carrots, beets, and all roots; it improves the colouring and size of flowers, and has considerable effect in preventing many forms of disease. Potash can bo supp.ied as sulphate of potash (which is the best form as a rule), as muriate of potash, kainit, or through wood ashes. Sulphur can be used with excellent results when glowing potatoes, tomatoes, cabbages, cauliflowers, onions, or with many flower seedlings which aie subject to fungoid disease, Finely-ground sulphur can be sprinkled in the rows when sowing seeds or planting seedlings. It can bo used as a top-dressing almost at any time with benefit. ' Gardeners should try the effect of this fertiliser. In some cases it stimulates vegetables to wonderful growth. Lilium Regale. I/ilium regale is one of the finest of Chinese lilies. It was introduced first under the name of L. myriophyllura. It has slender steins about a yard high, narrow, diii green leaves, and a loose pani- ' culate head of bell-shaped flowers, with recurved segments, and are white, tinged with pale yellow inside. They are traglant, but not overpoweringly so, as some lilies aie. A single plant may hear as many as twenty large blooms, the average number being from rive to seven on a stem. A New Rhododendron. Rhododendron intricatum is a new dwarf Chinese species, perhaps the best of those kinds suitable for the rock or alpine garden. It is slow of growth, having small leaves, and flowers of a dainty lavenderblue shade. The plant blossoms profusely, and a neat bush when in full flower is, in the distance, suggestive of a bunch of violets. The tiny plants commence to bloom when only a few inches in height. Propagation is effected by either seeds or cutlings. Exhibition Sweet Peas. The following is the method under which I'luglish gardeners grow sweet peas for exhibition purposes: —The seeds are sown late in the winter in pots, one seed to a 3in pot. These are then plunged in a coldframe or in a greenhouse, the temperature being just warm enough to keep out frost, air being given on all favouiablc occasions. As the pots fill with roots the plants are lifted into larger pots and so on until ready to set out in the open giound in the spring in soil prepared 3tt deep the fall before. The plants are knocked out of the pots, disturbing the ball of the earth and roots as little as possible, and set out one foot in the row. A week or ten days before the exhibition most of the'flowers aie removed, leaving a few of the longeststemmed .".veloping buds caitying three and four buds to a stem. Leaf Propagation. The careful gardener should always be at some pains to acquaint himself with the best ways of increasing his stock. It is fortunate that, in a general sense, almost any part of the plant is capable of starting growth of its own account if the conditions are favourable. This characteristic can be turned to very good account by the horticulturist in the case of gloxinias, the evergreen begonias and streptocarpi. In the case of all these plants, their propagation may he carried out with the greatest ease, simply by rooting the leaves of the different kinds. To this end. mature, welldeveloped leaves should be selected, care being taken to see that each has a good piece of stalk attached. These should he spread out separately on a tray in a (in.l (lark place for 24 hours, an effort heing made to keep the various kinds distinct. New obtain some boxes or pans about 2in or Sin in depth, and till these with some light sandy soil, (he poorer the materia! the better. If the mould is very 'dry it should be watered through a fine rose. The following day the leaves of the different plants may be taken, and each one dibbled out into the box or pan. The stalk should be embedded to the extent of about an inch. The leaves mav be put fairly close together, although they should not touch one another. For the first few days place the pan in a shady position, and after this the leaves will do best if they; can be fairly near to the glassi