THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LI, Issue 15748, 24 October 1914, Page 3 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

Chrysanthemums.

Fnosi about (he middle of October to the first week in November is, as a general rule, the best time to plant, provided the plants arc well rooted and properly established. For show purposes an open but fairly well sheltered situation should be chosen. They succeed best in a moderately stiff, loamy soil that has been well prepared and manured for the purpose. For convenience of staking and tending them during the different stages of their growth they should be planted in rows at a distance of from 12in to 18in apart in the rows, and about 3ft between each row. By arranging for a path after every second row the plot is thrown into beds with two lines of plants to each. The soil should be well worked and pulverised before the beds are planted. Fertilisers for Chrysanthemums. A dressing of lime scattered over the surface and lightly hoed in sweetens the soil and destroys vermin, and acts as a stimulant. Applications of artificial manures should not be given during the earlier stages of growth, as it forces them ahead too fast. About the middle of DeI cember a surface mulch with decayed hops ■ or partially rotted stable manure is most ' beneficial. As the roots do not penetrate i deeply the surface mulchings will supply nourishment and keep the soil cool and moist. Dwarf, sturdy plants are much preferable to tail, lanky ones. Bamming the soil t'ghtly around each plant with i the blunt end of a dibble should be done at the time of planting with a light surface filling. Dahlias. Early in November is the proper time to commence the planting of these indispensable summer and autum-flowering plants. Of late years dahlias have become ; exceedingly popular. The cactus section ! of the dahlia family comprises by far the largest number of varieties, all of which owe their origin to the variety Juarezii, a form which originated under cultivation in Mexico, and was introduced into Europe some years ago. Dahlia specialists have devoted special attention to the cactus section, resulting in the marvellous present-day creations of blooms of indescribable beauty and various colours and shades. The Collarette is the latest type. The attractive single flowers in this section have a collar of secondary petals around the centre, giving the whole flower & most conspicuous and decorative effect. The old-fashioned show and fancy dahlias, which have large double flowers of the 'most perfect form, with the petals evenly arranged, used to be the most popular. They are too formal and do not suit present-day tastes. J Pompon or Bouquet dahlias are special .favourites with many. They are exceedingly pretty; the plants are of dwarf, compact habit, and most floriferous, constituting these the best for bedding purposes. The paeony-flowered is a comparatively new addition to dahlias; the flowers are remarkable for their strikingly handsome flowers and lovely shades of colouring. The Popular Salvia. Salvia splendens with its sub-varieties is an extremely gorgeous summer and autumn-flowering plant for garden decoration, and was a leading floral feature in, our parks and in the Exhibition grounds last summer, producing the utmost profusion of brilliant scarlet flowers. The variety " Bontiro" is the most generally grown. No garden is complete without some of these salvias. Thev axe easily grown ; they delight in heat and a fair amount of moisture. Planted early in ! November, when the weather is warmer. I they start into growth quickly, coon I bloom, and continue throughout the sumI mer and well into the winter. In favourI able positions the plants last for two years, but give much tho best results' when planted annually, as the old plants j naturally become exhausted after the production of so much bloom. Phlox Drummondii Grandiflora. The large-flowered phlox is perhaps the best and most useful of all annuals. By planting the best strains the finest flowers and greatest diversity of colours may be had. The plants are easily grown and flower with the greatest profusion throughout, the summer and autumn months. Phlox should be grown in separate beds, or massed together, when they are most effective. Daffodils are about over for the season. As soon as the foliage is sufficiently matured it may be out off and the surface soil in the beds lightly forked, without disturbing the bulbs, and planted with phlox. By this means the ground is utilised and a display of bloom provided. Seedlings for present planting comprise asters, coreopsis of sorts, cosmos, delphinium, elatum hybridum, dianthus, gaillardias, marigolds, dw«rf French, also the tall-growing variej ties of African and French marigolds; i petunias, zinnias, salvias, verbenas, and others. Frequent hoeings to stir the- surface soil are absolutely necessary at this season, especially as the weather is so very dry. The hoeing acts as a mulch and brings the moisture up from below. KITCHEN GARDEN. Melons and Cucumbers. The end of the present month or up to the first week in November is the best i time to sow melons and cucumbers in tho open ground. Nothing whatever is gained by sowing melons before this time, as Warmth in the soil is essential for the germination of the seed and the production of healthy growth. More failures result from early sowing than from any other cause, for even during the most favourable seasons, when the seed is sown too early, the young plants receive such a check from the cold winds and variable temperature that they, rarely recover sufficiently to make healthy growth, and soon become victims of green aphis. If sown, however, when the soil is warm and the temperature more uniform the seeds germinate more quickly, and under reasonable conditions make rapid growth from the start. In raising the plants a good plan is to place a shallow box with no bottom over where the seeds are sown, and cover with a pane of glass. By this means a more, regular temperature is maintained until the plants are raised; while they are more easily protected from slugs in tho young stage of growth. Some growers recommend raising the plants in pots and transplanting into their permanent quarters as soon as the plants attainable a reasonable size. With cucumbers this method of planting is alright particularly when planted in "rich, wellprepared beds, and supplied with abundance of moisture. With" melons, however, | transplanted plants, no matter how carefully handled, will not succeed as well as plants raised where they are intended to j remains. This, too, apnlies to rock, water, or piemelons. The soil should be deeply a.nd thoroughly worked, and a nice I tine surface formed, where the seeds are |to be sown. Sufficient seed should be J sown to raise three or four plants to each ! plots, the distance between such plots being regulated by the variety sown. With I rock melons 6ft apart is sufficient. 1 Rock melons suceed best in good loamy ! soil that has been enriched with a previous crop. The .'nil should be made firm before sowing. Water melons require more space, and may be sown in plots from Bft to 12ft apart, according to the variety grown. In preparing the. ground for water and pie melons dig a hole from 2ft to 2J,ft in diameter, throwing the soil out to the full depth of the spade; place in some well-decomposed manure, and fork up the bottom, so that the manure is well mixed with it, and refill with good soil. After preparing the plots make" a nice fine surt face, and sow the seed. A common pracj tice is to form raised mounds or hills on I which to sow the seed. Sowing on the level ground, however, is preferable, as the plants are less exposed, and not so liable to damage by high winds or by drought. Water melons succeed best when sown in soil of a sandy or gritty nature, land in a warm, sunny sheltered "aspect. &EPOS.