WOMAN'S WORLD.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LI, Issue 15649, 1 July 1914, Page 12

WOMAN'S WORLD.

ABUSE OP PERFUME.

VIRTUE OF MODERATION.

Havk vou ever gone jnto a room crowded with the feminine elect at som« popular social function, and recalled in a heap as on the door? An odorous rave strikes vou in the nostrils with almost the force "of a physical Mow! It will be an expensive wave, m.r,dyau, for no real lad from either Auckland or any other high.)civilised centre would dream of using anything inferior to Roger and Gallet's best, but •till the effectis quite overwhelming. A garden'of roses is one of the most exqui«JJ and delicious things blue skies and gold sunshine ever smiled an, but the concentrated essense of a thousand roses, white carnations, frangipani, an unventlkted roo-! and fumes of afternoon tea, is truly a thing to give one pause! In the open air perfume is a delight if used discreetly it is the conglomeration of odours that is nauseating. If any evidence were nece* sarv a „ to the vast amount of perfumes that are ustd to-day, over .and beyond that which one experiences in tea-shop or cinematograph display, it would be found in the liberal stacks of bottles that fill the "toilet counters" of the less exclusive of our stores. The gaily-labelled, ribbontied flacon marked, " Specially reduced, and purporting to contain violette do ■ Panne or life do Nice-for a French name seems essential— no inconsiderable extravagance at the present time among women and girls who could certainly find a much better usa for their money. Time was when a bottle of scent was a costly purchase, only to be enjoyed by those d means and used with strictest care and discretion. Bat commercial chemist:- has discovered the imitation of the real thing, and the possessor of the fur coat made of dyed rabbit-skin and the near-silk - ' hose can reek with an insistent exhalation quite in keeping with these masquerades of better thingo. Pweal v. Imitation. The lavender-water and tie eau-de-Cologne, that used to mark the limit of what women of refinement allowed themselves to use sparingly, have long had a crudo form of rival in the products of the laboratory. R«al perfume, the result of a long process ai maceration of the flowers in purest olive oil and subsequent distillation, is exceedingly costly. But the demand has gone forth for the " something as near as possible," and Vhe absence of the genuine thi«g will be concealed as far as practicable in the imitation mt-glass bottle and the suggestion of lux iriotis appointments. Thus it commends itself to that large class of femininity always anxious- to have what it thinks is smart and savours of opulence. The over-doing of tho use of scent M only another manifestation of the desire to call attention to herself that is so regrettable a tendency in much of preset. fashion. It may be taken for granted that the excessive employment of perfume will go along with the note of exaggeratio.i m many other directions. The size and the aggressiveness of the hat and its: trimmings, the lowness of the collarlessi blouse/ or dress, the ultra high-heeled shoes, tho clink and chink of "mascots" and baubles innumerable, of bangles and chains, tho bizarre style of hair-dressing will all have been calculated with tho idea of arresting and compelling notice. There will be nothing quiet, refined, or artistic in the whole scheme. Brand of Artificiality.

But the deluded individual who thinks that she has established her claim to be fashionable does not at all realise how all this appeals to people of saner judgment, lo them it bespeaks artificiality, vulgar and unredeemed. it stands lor an unwholesomeness that relies on com-plexion-washes and face-creams rather than a bath and good soap. One would expect the foolisti young person thus turned out to prefer an afternoon in a stuffy picture-place to a bracing and invigorating walk or a lively outdoor game. To deprecate the superabundant use- of j cheap stuff is not to say that perfume I must not be employed at all. On the contrary, there are women of the utmost refinement who always seem to be surrounded by the suggestion of an ethereal' atmospl-ere in which a slight and delicto fragrance has a partMoreover, there are delightful perfumes as eau-de-Cologne and old English laven-der-water that have really valuable and reviving properties. The refreshment of these in travelling, and the benefit of a sprinkling of either in faintness or headache, are unquestionable. Again there are certain other very delicate essences that may be quite fittingly used, and which exhale rather a hint of distant fragrance than an actual scent. Charm of Sweet Perfume. It is because perfume discreetly used has been an attribute of fair and noble womanhood that ona protests against it? degradation by cheap substitutes and extravagant profusion Jvi handkerchiefs and garments saturated with it. It has re ceived due lonour in literature, and the "myrrh, aloes, and cassia out of the ivory palaces" of the Psalmist, and' "the alabaster box of very precious ointment" of Marv of the Gospels, will come to mind. 'There is Shakesperean allusion galore t» perfumer)', and the sonorous lines of "Paradise Lost" may be recalled— Now gentle gales, Fanning their odorous wings, dispense Native perfumes, and whisper whence they stole Those balmy spoils . . . Sabean odours from the spicy shore of Arabia the blest. " THE WOMAN TEMPTED ME." MODERN EVES. To this day, every daughter of Eve bears one certain trait inherited from her mother. Women are born temptresses. They may bo models of every virtue, staunch supporters of the Ten Commandments, 39 articles, and 500 family traditions, but they'ro f.ll temptresses when it comes to the point! This trait may have nothing whatever to do with morals or men. More often than not, woman's wiles are directed towards the downfall of her own sex. For instance, you go into the showroom of a fashionable Queen Street store. A svelte figure, draped a la Paul Fo.ret—or thereabouts—swishes up to you with an opulent rustle, head held high. Sle murmurs a query in iioncommital tones. " A little ready-to•"■ ear straw, please," ycu begin in business-like tone. "Something quite simple, suitable for mornings." • Yes." Her voice is a little aloof. " Something like this?'' She advances to a stand, and unhitches an atrocity in black, a parody on $?andma's tea-cosy, and moves to pet it en your head. You dodge hastily. " 0':, no, thank you. Something a littlo less severe." Whereat she oilers you a purple velvet puddingbasin, or a pot, which you firmly, though i politely, refuse. You are not going to be coerced ii to making a living show of yo'ir- [ self for any woman alive! For hajf-anhour you wander round < disconsolately, wondering what, wild freakishness fashion will declare next. Hat [ after hat goes on—and comes off. And [ then suddenly you come across the dream- [ hat, tho hat you've always imagined your- , self wearing in life's crowning social triumph. "Try it on," says the svelte lady, with sudden interest. The Fall. i You try it on; crane your neck back--5 ward, forward, adjust the hat at (ivory ; angle. Yes, it is your hat; made for , your head and yours alone! " How lunch ia it!" you ask tremulously

"Three guineas— real bargain," s!:« says in dulcet tones "A little Paris model we've just got in. Nothing lik- it in Auckland." Three guineas— los 6d is vour limit! " Oh, quite impossible,' vou say, handing it back with the fortitude of the early martyrs and a I.!, dead weight at your heart, "Its \>-iy nice, but I don't think I'll bother aiiout a hat this morning!" That is the call to arms! The svelte lady smiles, and girds herself for the immortal ay ' ■. minute later you are saying, ' y-. S-m-i-t-h, Dominion Road, and can 1 '.. ■■ ■ •• it to-day for certain?" The Old, Old Story. Or you go out with husband to <i: •••: at Mrs. John's. She is an ag^u-.-.v,. .- good cook, and likes her guests to itai.st it. "Just a little more, Mr. Dix. ' pleads, dangling spoon and fork s.w r.« dish, "Oh, come; you must try a , .' e more of mv pie! 1 made it spe .a'.J.. yow do, just a little!" Husband v..-;,!-.-:.- . in spito of your furtive nudge, de!.v;.u .. weakens, and Mrs. John, wj-.h tv ; • of triumph in her eye, piles up }...- ; ~... with a recklessness that makes y< ; . .i>. inwardly. Xex*. day, husband. : 3 groaning, outwardly. Of routs-' : : Adam that ho is, lie blame? Mi- .1 "I knew I was a fool.'' lie moan: the woman tempted me! The old, old story! Remember. ' hat you sigh— an houi later a-, veighng Mrs. Tom into leaving :..• ner to cook itself while she ; i ..: ■: <• you on a visit to the Society > : .'.'•• EARLY RISING.

It is a very difficult matter to ;> t me young peoplo out of bed oi a i;.-..;..:. Preach to them as you will on 'be r.r*"o of early rising, they continue to lie abed till tho breakfast bell rings!

Children naturally like to get tip > n , and would continue to da au :i ;: .■■<.-. not for this copybook morality. \V. • : . thing is held up to them, not as , ; pleasant and agreeible, but as norm-'., uncomfortable v. hi h they ought ;■ naturally they will cease to wish to 1 will soon actively w.:b not to <io it .'•.. . those of us who are ordinarily nuir.a-, ; like the person who gets, up culi-: ■■..-, we, and who prates of it a" if it -.•■'.• .i virtue. It is not a virtue; it is in,;. ,■: advantageVie don't object in the loan to >•• people's early rising, but we do i- , earing them brag about it And •!•• v certain moral perversity of nature. ■■•> i a good deal of satisfaction ;:i I}.' bed just a trifle longer, because ih-— . ~ talk such a lot about the sin 0!

WOMAN'S RIGHTS. The rights of women—what ?.:•• •■■:■■; The right to labour anfi to _priy , The right to watch while ointrp -■<■■•, The right o'er other's woe to v< . . The right to succour in revere The right to bless, whilst others ■;:<■■■ The right to love whom other.? ■■.:■. The right to comfort all that :r.- :n The right tc lead the foul to GoO Along the path the Saviour trod The path 0! meekness and. of Icvt That leads at last to Heaven abi-e Such women's rights— God vii Li< - ,'icd crown their champion with ;.!(-•. ,- S£ |