WOMEN DRESS DESIGNERS.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LI, Issue 15504, 10 January 1914, Page 6 (Supplement)

WOMEN DRESS DESIGNERS.

Standing beside a dressmaker's dummy, and busily engaged with it, stood one of the least seen but most indispensable members of one of the busiest firms in London. She is the dress designer. Her originality and artistic touch convert yards of fabric into those model gowns and chic creations which dazzle the eyes aim burn the pockets of every modern Eve as she passes tho shops in sale time or out of it. Tho process of transformation is interesting, and worth half an hour of any visitor's time. The designer goes to a drawer, and takes from it some raw material. She tosses the silk carelessly over tho dummy. Then, after a moment's reflection, un idea for a design occurs to her. The fabric is caught between finger and thumb and hitched into folds here and there, caught up with a pin in one place, and allowed to droop iu another. Gradually form is emerging from the chaos of loose stuff, and a definite style is evolving. Suddenly the whole thing is undone, and every pin is removed. Wny'f Simply because it did not satisfy. Perhaps an hour, two hours, or an entire day will now be occupied in pinning or unpinning that material until it gives a satisfactory effect. Different colours, materials, and modes will be tried, blended, and at last pinned to good effect. The final result is a charming, complete model, but not made up. A girl is called in. She is asked to inspect the work and to take in exactly what has been done. Then the model is taken to pieces and cut to measure, then readjusted on the model. After this the design is worked out as the fabric rests on the support, and the style is varied according as fold suggests a curve here or a straight line there. Finally a pattern is cut out, and. the dress is seamed up, stitched, embroidered, trimmed, or finished in whatever way the style suggests.

No sooner is the robe completed than it is despatched to the wholesalo show rooms. These are not the big shops open, to the public, but are the private rooms to which the buyers representing the large firms are Bent. From here the choice of robes is made, and tie selections are then sent for display in tho windows of shop 9 familiar to us all. Sometimes two hundred copies are made to order from the same model, and are sold at the same 6hop. The one brain is responsible for the creation of the model robes, but many hands aro employed in carrying out ite directions. Seated in three bare rooms leading out of one another sit twelve girls all engaged in making models. The workers very in age, proficiency, and taste, but all have some special department of work, and are told off to do itThere site one little dark-eyed girl, aged only fourteen. She is making those pretty beaded waistbands frequently worn, on afternoon gowns. She is planning out a design, and working it in beads unaided by any traced guide. Sometimes she makes the imitation flowers that bob about on the front ,of bodices. Another girl is pinning a blouse together on a dummy. Six more gir's are machining. Passing to and fro, speaking to this girl and pointing out a difficulty to another, is the designer. She personally direct* everything, and all the various trimmings, effects, etc., are stitched to her directions.

Of course, her class of work is dependant on mood, surroundings, and the inspiration of the moment. Sometimes a whole day passes without one dress having been designed. Then, perhaps, the artist may be able to get away to some pretty place or listen to refreshing music, and that will have more effect on her work than hours of deep thought. Ideas will occur to her, and, on a scrap of paper, she will sketch five or six new designs to be modelled later in fabric.

Materials for the models are purchased by the wholesale firm. The salesman visits the showroom, and the buyer makes his purchases, according to the selections of tho designer, who is present to choose what fabric she likes.

Artists are not the best-paid people, and designers are no exception. Payment for these model gowns is made ctuefiy for the work put into them rather than for the design itself; only a little extra is given on the first frocK of every now design for the idea that it conveys. Taking into consideration the capricious nature of all inspiraton, it is evident that incomes for dress designing vary largely with different individuals. On the other hand, little training is required for the work; designers are born, not made. A thorough knowledge of dressmaking, combined with natural talent, is enough for success as a designer.

Sometimes people are well aole to coin ideas for robes, and can depict them in sketches, but are quite at a loss when it comes to carrying out their ideas in, fabric. This, of course, is not of much use for practical purposes.

Some of the . best inspirations in this work have, come from the "snippet" drawer. Hero, odds and ends of every material are to be found. In one huge pile there are bits of cotton, silk, voile, and all sorts of such stuffs of every length end shade. These are pulled out one by oiio and selected. One little bit suggests a new colour scheme, and another little bit does for trimming. They all have their use.

Like every other form of work, different porkers have different methods of working Also the rate of work varies tremendously; one worker will start and complete a dress in a day that another worker will tako three djys to finish. Two, five, and six hundred models have been thought out and finished in a year by one designer, but six hundred is a li'ure which, applied to this work, taisually exacts its toll of ill-health as remit.

Part of the mental strain of such work rests on the utter dependence of each worker on the directions of the designer; nothing can .be taken in hand without her approval, hence she is never off duty, and constantly employing her creative faculties. Often a large firm has only one designer for all the stock, so the entire responsibility of style, finish, and general effect devolves upon one woman.

However, artistic work of this sort lias much charm, endless variety, and offers gratification to the true artistic spirit which revels in complete mastery over the Worker's own craft. This the designer may justly claim. Sometimes she sees her work displayed for public admiration, but more often than not sho sees it no more after it has left the workroom. A visitor to ono of these rooms witnessed a handsome dress' in the making. The white, satin was pinned round the dummy, and then some ninon was thrown over it. The material Was of a glorious cerise shade, and looked aplendia as it rested there, relieved by the white. Soon, a little looping was done, and the ninon was then hitched up in folds. As the colour was very bright, the thinnest black tullo was pinned over it in ample folds. Broad, handsome silver bugled embroidery was curved halfwav up the figure, and showed off the deep cerise, end black tulle. This dress, so near completion, will sell for at least 10 guineas at a West End firm.