LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LI, Issue 15504, 10 January 1914, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

fIBOH QVp OWN CORRESPONDENT.!) London*, November 21. The Hip Belt This has found its way into the domain of the tailor, also it has token the fancy of the blanket-coat maker. The former gathers his material— corduroy velvet, broche, ratine, or whatever it maj be— this belt of some four-inch depth which encircles the figure below the hips, and fastens in front with a single button. The coat is a full and loose-fitting and a shapeless thing. In the case of the blanket coat, the bodice portion and sleeves are all in one. then just about the waistline comes the belt, perhaps of twelve-inch depth, and below this the skirt bodice and skirt are slightly full, but the fullness in both cases is interrupted by the straightness of the wide hip-belt, which is stitched top and bottorn and made to fasten with three large buttons placed aslant; other fastenings above and below are invisible. There is a snug collar and wide cuffs, both being machine-stitched at the edges, and in all likelihood the hip-belt, the collar and cuffs will be of colour slightly different brighter, possibly— the blanket cloth of the coat. The hip-belt is slit on eitner aide, so thai' pockets are provided, but only in the case of the wrap-coat. This type of coat is not by any means confined to the useful everyday species; it is likely to be a very favourite model for the quite smart visiting suit, and then the aelt may bo decorated with an embroidery in coloured silks and made to fasten with ; an important fancy buckle. No More Fringes. Only the other day every encouragement was offered to induce women to adopt a fringe on the forehead, even if merely a slight one. Now instructions wholly oppose those recently issued, and Londoners are asked by a Parisienne: "What have you decided to do about your forehead?" Of course you know that foreheads— quite high ones—are all the rage. You really must do away with your fringe and even your cunning little centre curL Fashion has declared that we must look intellectual, no matter how we may feel. The Pariaiennes are enchanted with the bare-forehead fashion. They bravely sweep their powdered hair back and raise it over a cone-shaped support, which gives the head a most peculiar outline. In some cases the hair at the back is shaped out into a distinct point, and for smart occasions veiy long, thin mounts are arranged at unexpected angles. The correct thing for evening wear is the powdered head-dress, which is dark at the back and snow-white at the sides. Clever women take endless trouble with their powdered hair. They have special face powder which blends with the powder on the hair and gives a peculiar, very artificial effect, which is entirely attractive." And what Paris orders, London sooner or later adopts. Hitherto one of the chief drawbacks of fashionable hairdrewing has been the complete eclipse of the ear. Now with the hair rolled back from the forehead, one imagines that ears will once more be visible. As yet, though, only about one per cent, of fashionable women do anything else than drape their hair low on the forehead, covering the cars, with determination to keep them out of sight. The powdering of the hair is not confined to a dusting of white, a metallic powder of colour may be used, and one black coiffure called to mind was dusted liberally with blue metallic dust, giving the once-admired raven tint. The brown hair may be burnished with a golden dust. Colour contrast, too, is obtained by the use of large horn pins and prongs of gay hues, prominent among them being crimson, peacock blue and a bright green. Combs and pins of amber are very usual, so are those of tortoiseshelL and many of them arc a-glitter with elaborate designs of paste. Tie essential point about all the new hairdressing is an absence of anything that is stiff or formal. At the nape of the neck the hair should not be dragged up at all, but permitted to fall loosely and softly all round.

"Apres Oreuze."

London can show, and is showing, immense variety in shapes and styles of hats, but it is doubtful whether the newest French model has found its way across yet, so one may be pardoned for quoting again from an authority in Paris: "Quite the most fascinating hat of the present season is that labelled 'Apres Gauze.' This is the curious little shape that is worn very much on the side of the head—in fact, it is placed at such a curious angle that the hat seems attached to one ear and a few hairs only ! These Greuze hats aTe worn in conjunction with bare foreheads. This seems rather a peculiar statement, but it is quit true. The bare forehead is rapidly becoming exceedingly fashionable, and the whole charm of Buch a curious little hat depends upon the style of hairdressing that accompanies it. Such a hat would look almost vulgar if worn over a thick fringe of hair, or even, over the waved bandeau style.

A little close-fitting hat is made of smoke-grey velvet. It has n long pleureuso feather, shaded from grey to flame, round the crown.

A cavalier hat of soft white velvet lined with black felt. At one, side, flat ou the brim, there is a pastel pink rose,