HE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume L, Issue 15411, 20 September 1913, Page 4 (Supplement)

HE GARDEN.

Annuals and Biennials: There are now so many improvements in annuals both in habit of growth and profuseness and Jong .duration of flowering, and also several, new species, that by a judicious selection and arrangement a continuous display may be kept up throughout the summer and autumn months. . Annuals are a pleasing change to the sameness that is produced when bedding plants only are employed for the ornamentation of the various beds. The trouble entailed in sowing the seeds, and the successful raising of the seedlings, often deters many from cultivating annuals. Considerable care and attention is necessary to be successful in raising them from seeds when sown in the open beds and borders. Slugs are the greatest trouble wliilsi the plants are in the seedling state. There are few kinds that they will not attack. The best preventative against these pests is to sprinkle lime mixed with wood ashes and a little soot i around the patches. Raising Animals. Where there are the necessary conveni- : ences, such as glass frames or glasshouses, the best plan is to raise many of the varieties by sowing the seeds in boxes or pans, and pricking the. seedlings out into other boxes when they are large enough- to handle. This method* entails more labour than when the seeds are sown outside, but is much surer. There are now ample.opportunities to purchase seedlings that have been grown in boxes and hardened off ready for planting, that those who have not the necessary appliances, or do not care about the trouble of sowing, are enabled to stock their gardens at a trifling cost for plants. , ~ - Varieties of Annuals for Sawing. The following varieties succeed best when sown in the beds and borders where they are to grow and flower:Acroclinums rhodanthes, Virginian stocks, linarias, sweet sultans] mignonette, larkspurs, nemophilas, linums, poppies, candytufts, and a few others, all of which should be sown at once. The proper time to plant the. different varieties must be carefully studied, in order to produce the best results and have them flower at a seasonable time. Novices invariably plant many of the kinds too soon. For present planting, antirrhinums, stocks, calliopsis, nemesias, , dianthus, cornflowers, ■ diraorphathecas,' larkspurs, gaillardias, Canterbury bells pansies, godetias, poppies, lobelias, cinerarias, sweet scabious, penstemons, summer chrysanthemums, Marguerite carnations, .mimulas, h-elichrysmns, and a few others. Phlox will succeed planted now, but as this is one of the best during the hot summer and autumn months, the middle of October is soon enough to begin planting; also for 'asters, petunias, French and African marigolds, verbenas, and for zinnias towards the end of October is soon enough to plant; also scarlet salvias. For portulaccas, celosias, and amaranthus, early in November; cosmcea towards the end of October, and miniature sunflowers, salphiglossis, and perennial delphinums early in October. KITCHEN GARDE*. The season is again opportune for the sowing of marrows and pumpkins. There is always some portion of the kitchen garden that has become overgrown with sorrel and other weeds, or that has become partially exhausted by growing root crops in succession. This can be utilised for growing marrow and pumpkins. Dig holes from 9ft to 12ft apart, mixing up in each two or three forks full of manure, thon add fine, well-pulverised soil, and sow a few seeds on each hill or mound. The intervening spaces between the- sowings may afterwards be manured and deeply dug before the plants begin to run. By this .means weedy patches may be utilised by a crop that will be harvested in time to have the ground properly treated next autumn. Now is the time to plant tomatoes. Those planted; now will overtake those that have been previously put in, and have been subjected to cold and /variable weather, j Arrange the plants in rows about 3£ft to j 4ft between each, and about 18.in between I the plants in the rows. Training each plant with one stem to - a single stake is the best • , "::,.,

TEE VimSEY. Daring the last few week* the weathwV" has been all that could be desired for -riff* in all stages of growth, and both esilv 5J later started varieties are growing nivalAt this stage almost constant attention ' must be' given to their requirements. I) '«. "budding, stopping, tieing to the trellis* and trimming of the berries follow eat]! : other in rapid succession, as well as huffier- ■ ous other important duties connected with successful culture. The cultivation of «■* grape under glass is too expensive n : operation to. risk failure by neglect. -nl !w by careful and judicious management g>- • cess could be attained. Yet numbers if large and expensive vineries are erected and little or no expense given to the m||| important part, viz., the preparation of the soil (or borders) in which the vines W3 • planted. Yet no matter how good or eUv ; borate the house may be,'it is practic.il]? ! impossible to produce good grape? unless there is healthy root action, and this can ; only be attained when the roots are grow, I ing in soil congenial to their well-being 1 The training of the vines during their season of growth is a matter of considerable importance, and entails a great amouas" of labour as well as knowledge of their? requirements by the growers. Yet, if the! work is regularly and systematically performed, they can be kept will under coos trol, and risks avoided. .;.' Stopping Back Vines. One of the most important tittup ra f stopping is in no case to remove too much from the vines at one time or great loss of ? eap will result in weakening the. reman- = ing lateral growths. If a little stopping is done each day, or at least three or fear' times a week, only a few from each yi|e would need stopping, and there would'be little or no risk, growth being checked The first operation after the vines h&wj started is disbudding in most cases, too' three or more shoots start out from '■$&&. base of each spur, and the weakest aid ' superfious grawt''2>'.should bo removed. .good plan, however, is to allow two of t'ja strongest to remain until the one showiag'-' the most promising bunch can be seen—the : weaker can then be removed or pinciMi back, if _ not required for furnishing '$j£., trellis with foliage. In no case, however should the foliage be crowded, for while «i grapes always thrive best when protectee: by a good canopy of healthy foliage, thw-- : - must nave ample space for full devest. I ments. The foliage, too, should be trainsl well away from the glass, so that air can ' freely concentrate between the glass and) foliage, and prevents crushing. The first stopping is done when the lateral has miil fair growth and the bunch is formed 1» pinching out the top of the shoots at tie " ; second or third joints above the bunch I according to the strength of lateral and' space at disposal. When practical, however, three leaves above the bunch should be allowed to grow. EEros.