THE GARDEN.
■■ BOSKS. : The flower of the season is undoubtedly the roae; - the numerous species and their varieties are now in the full zenith, of their glory. Those belonging to the climbing section rambling up and over trees and shrubs, and intermixed in the hedge-rows and train-
Ed against walls and fences, and covering banks, and rose pergolas are now wreathed and garlanded in most lovely blossoms, emitting a refreshing and i delicious odour. • CLIMBING BOBES. ', \ ' ~\\, The numerous new varieties .of ramblers, hybrid wichurianas, and other climbers, are further triumphs to , the skill >of the hybridiser and popularity of the rose family. .The ' pergola erected in artistic and rustic form • is the best suited for the requirements of climbing roses, and is an ' ornament to the garden," besides "' being economic Itf saving ' space, arid affording shade in summer; by constructing it over the pathway or walk. In addition to climbers, all the /varieties of the rose family are in the zenith of their glory at this season. ' ' ' .;; ; HORTICULTURAL SHOWS. , Horticultural shows are now the order of the day, and afford opportunities for comparing, notes and compiling lists of varieties for future planting, and give the general . public a rare floral treat. PLANTING CARNATIONS.: - Y Carnations are again beginning to flower profusely; they are universal favourites, and are easily grown, provided care is taken in tho preparation of the soil previous to planting. .Lime should bo freely used.- A little apterite mixed with the > soil before planting destroys wireworms, that;. are < so destructive to the roots of carnations, and also other insects';, that infest the ground, more especially ,in old gardens that' have been a long time under cultivation. The flower, stalks must be neatly tied up," 5 to prevent the blooms being spoiled by coming m contact with the, earth and to display them to the best advantage,; also, thin some of the flower buds to obtain the largest,and .finest blooms. ,' ~ -, /; - '■ *•? LIFTING BULBS. Anemones, hyacinths, tulips, and ranunculi should always be taken up as soon as the foliage is sufficiently ripened- off. Hyacinths should be lifted when the.leaves* are only partially matured;, these, when allowed to remain too long in the soil, rot after warm rains. After taking the bulbs';up, allow them to properly- dry before ■ storing them away, mix dry sand and a littlo powdered charcoal :„ with , the bulbs, and place them in. a cool, airy place. Narcissi or daffodils may also be taken up; ground occupied by above varieties may bo planted in, suitable varieties of annuals for Bummer and autumn flowering. • .. ' SHOWY ANNUALS. Y ;; Shallow-shooting annuals, such as phlox, portulacca, balsams, etc., are suitable for planting in beds occupied by narcissi, without taking tho bulbs . up.' By this means a continuous 1 display is maintained throughout the summer.' The annuals may bo cleaned away just as the narcissi are beginning to restart into growth in the autumn. ',-, PLANTING DAHLIAS. ;; "■' ; Copious rains have thoroughly saturated the surface soil, greatly benefiting the various plants, and giving another -opportunity to proceed with the further planting of dahlias and other subjects that are suitable for the summer -and autumn decoration of the flower beds and borders. .'■ ~ ■■,'.:: THE VINERY. ■• ■;'' ;; The heavy' rains ; that have fallen during j the past week, together with the high temperature experienced, will, naturally, induce very rapid growth, and necessitate more careful attention being paid to ventilating the house, thinning of > the * berries, ' stopping of the laterals, : and other important matters connected with successful grape culture. The importance of 'keeping the stopping of lateral growth well in hand is the more apparent when , the berries require thinning, as the time available will be fully devoted to this' work, and must, on no account, |be neglected. ' ; v''.;Yt SHOBTENING LATERALS. The object of stopping (or shortening back) lateral growth is to concentrate the vigour of tho vino to the, fruit-bearing lateral, thus assisting to develop both fruit and foliage.' As frequently pointed out in these ' columns, however, close stopping has the opposite effect, and will check the free flow of the sap. Two or three eyes beyond the bunch. is close enough for the first stopping. I prefer three when trellis space will admit. • The ..second stopping consists in removing or shortening back sublateral growth With these: the best method is to remove those that start out, below the bunch, while those above the bunch of fruit should bo shortened back 'to tho first or second joints of the ' sublateral. By allowing a . little extra growth above where the ; fruit is formed it assists to 4 keep the roots of the vine in, that active condition so necessary for the production -of healthy foliage and fruit.
MULCHING BORDERS. 'If the borders have been thoroughlymulched, as recommended a few weeks ago, the heavy rains will have conveyed the manurial; properties to the roots just at the time when they most need assistance, that is, ; during the stoning period, It may not be : always practicable to mulch with stable or farmyard manure, but the application p.f blood or other chemical fertilisers that will dissolve with rain or by the application of water,.will • greatly assist in the production of health .growth * and (highly-developed fruit* . ..'- - .;■ .• : JLspoa*. %\
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New Zealand Herald, Volume XLVI, Issue 14223, 20 November 1909, Page 4 (Supplement)
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862THE GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume XLVI, Issue 14223, 20 November 1909, Page 4 (Supplement)
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