LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLVI, Issue 14109, 10 July 1909, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

[from OUR OWN CORRESPONDENT.] ' London, May 28. v ; ',. I• ' ; SOME DRESS MATERIALS. « C;. '. Fob several ', years ;: thinner •' drees * materials have .been worn in ~.; winter than used to be the case, and now it is noted that summer * gowns are:. in thinner textures than ever 'before, even for day and morning- wear. The new • silk cashmere, for instance, is;. as soft as silk "crepe and almost" as light; it is as smooth and glossy in its texture as quite a rich silk or satin. ■; Cashmere gowns" in the shape of Princess , robes,/fastening with large buttons and loops of silk cord down the middle of the front, will be greatly '. in demand among those * who appreciate the value of smart simplicity. These dresses are being arranged with semicircular chemisettes filled in, first with an empiecement of embroidery, worked on gold or silver net, : and \ then with a chemisette and high collar-band of Alencon or needle-run Mechlin lace. : The sleeves, long and tight-fitting, are turned back at the wrists with a small band of embroidery, and finished- with, ruffles of lace. '> '-■■-.■ i.-.i ' XXi^X' ;;' ,'~: .

; Soft silks and foulards*are. almost as light in weight. > The lovely Asphodel silk, which has a rib in it, is as soft as silk muslin, and is made in all the new colours, including the pale yellow ' that is coming so rapidly into favour. Painted muslins are going to be worn again this summer, made in panier fashion over a contrasting colour, while flower-covered silk voiles are very dainty, as also are many of the patterned cotton voiles with their wide borders sufficiently deep at times to form half the skirt. Bordered materials are in great use for blouses, and there is a return of popularity promised to cotton crepon of very crinkly surface. Some of the Shantung silk has a crepe-like surface, in appearance something like a stout make of crepe de chine. The coloured Shantungs have been dyed this season in many new shades, including some specially soft tints of rose colour, and a range of sweet ; pea and hydrangea colourings, which make up most delightfully. There are other varieties. of ■ Shantung, ,too, which are fascinating and useful, patterned, with quaint designs in Oriental colourings, specially suitable for making blouses. Of heavy suiting Shantung there is plenty, and there are more than plenty of coats and skirts made of it. These are being killed by kind .patronage. , undyed description is most in use, but if a colour is employed for a change the one usually chosen is a brilliant ta* bac brown, which is an unbecoming colour in any material. • Soft foulards with a satin-like surface are being made up into the smart .type of dress. Many, are,spotted,, but often there is a pattern of shamrocks in white on a coloured ground. The favourite colours include grey and heliotrope, and that lovely shade called " bois de rose," though it does not in the slightest degree resemble rosewood. . Soft .blue, with plenty of grey ,is another favourite, and. yet another is reseda. The dresses of foulard are made with plain skirts, fairly full and flowing, and very pretty bodices draped to follow , the lines of the figure, and filled in with chemisettes of net and lace. Some, of course, have the double skirt effect, and others follow the lines of the polonaise, kept very flat upon the hips and falling low upon the hack of the underskirt. Ottoman silk is asked for for nearly every purpose, and another new material is moire, which is as soft as satin with waterings undefined and indistinct. '- This latter fabric will be used both for day and evening wear. It possesses ideal draping qualities, and will be in request because of its novelty. Some of the foulards are shot as well as figured.' .'.". '; * /■- ,' ' -;.■■ , . .','.." VARIOUS DETAILS. There are stockings of black which are decorated on the outer side, for the whole ;length, with a lattice work of coloured ribbon, which tapers away to ,no-, thing, at the ankle and broadens out considerably as it ascends. This ribbon is placed over -an inlet panel, which usually is of black, but may be of^ flesh-tint. , In the latter'case the 4 ribbon lattice is of black. 1 Such stockings one supposes are intended as an accompaniment to the directoire dress. They are not desirable adjuncts to the toilette. : C ". ~

Gloves of white kid have a little mixture of colour introduced into the points on the back of the hand. The colour is repeated in the form of sharply-pointed appliques of kid, laid on . the top of the glove, which at times is of gauntlet shape. These touches of colour are worrying, to say the least. Smart Parisiennes are delighting in quite a new parasol. It has 18 ribs, is flat, is Japanese, and is called the Cio Cio San. The framework, which is unlined, is gilded and is covered with beautifully flowered silk. At the edge there is a hem of coloured chiffon, and attached to the. handle is a silk-bound ring which is slipped over the shape to keep it together when closed.

A becoming " coiffure" for evening. Ti te bunch of grapes is finished with silver leaves, and a silver band is threaded through the hair. -

Our illustration shows a graceful and pretty house gown, made of heavy Oriental silk in a dull green. The belt and long sash-ends are of black satin. The simple lace bodice is made over chiffon, and the Jong sleeves are of finely-gathered net. ,