ACROSS AUSTRALIA.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLV, Issue 13872, 5 October 1908, Page 6

ACROSS AUSTRALIA.

A CYCLIST'S EXPERIENCES.

ALLIGATORS AND BLACKFELLOWS.

Francis Birtxes, who 13 months ago essayed, the task of. practically circling Australia on his' cycle from Sydney to Sydney, arrived home last week. The entire route covered 8300 miles approximately. It was after leaving Charters Towers (Queensland) for the Northern Territory, that Birtles began to encounter trouble, "and to experience some sensational adventures.

On the way to the Gulf, which occupied a fortnight, he was several times in a terrible plight. He had almost daily to wade tidal streams that were alive with huge alligators. Some of these were of enormous size. Further on, towards the bend of the gulf, firmer ground was met, the long grasses and tropical trees affording excellent shelter. This part of the : country was filled with foxes, wild dogs, kangaroos, and wallabies. Wild turkeys and ducks were also in evidence. A little further on more tidal waters were met with.,-These were full of fish, and as the cyclist carried hooks he often tried to catch some. He soon discovered, however, that it was easier to shoot the fish, as when the waters are at their highest the mud mullet rushed right up to the bank. They do this when chased by alligators. It was near Wollongrangi that the cyclist saw ;'.' the first of the Gulf aboriginals. They were a skinny de-graded-looking lot. Birtles had just emerged from some scrub when ho beheld 30 or 40 wild-looking men camped in a circle, about 30 yards away. They were chattering and making gesticulations repeatedly < as : they sat, over their meal. Wishing ' to make his presence known, Birtles sounded his bicycle horn, when, like a flock of wild ducks at a gun shot, they disappeared. Black faces were soon seen peeping through the,- scrub,' and several spears were thrown, so uncomfortably close to Birtles that he had to take shelter behind a tree. "It was very exciting," he said, " for a few minutes. Then, on seeing mo beckoning to them, they emerged from their retreat, gazing at my bicycle with amazement. The camp which they had suddenly abandoned proved a veritable combined butcher's and antiquarian shop. There lay a kangaroo half eaten, even the entrails being partly used., Lying round were numerous spears, some of flint and quartz. Other weapons of stone were in abundance. As I sat within a circle of the warriors I required all my courage to keep from being nervous. However, they afterwards proved very friendly, and held a oorroboree for my benefit. The men on closer inspection proved to •be breast marked. These marks run horizontally across the chest, and are cut out with a stone knife,; after which they are filled with earth." ',

After three hours' stay "with this tribe Birlles resumed his journey, and was surprised, after proceeding a couple of miles, to encounter a fresh camp. "I had not imagined myself near anyone," eaid Birtles, " when there, before me, were seated a few dozen aboriginal women. The gins live apart front their husbands there, and only see them occasionally." From! this stage Birtles made a detour down the blackaoil plains, which are covered with Mitchell grass and creepers, very difficult to ride through.- "Then," said. Birtles, " I made for . Daly Waters. "It was near this place that I saw some extraordinary sights, and had some fearful experiences. I had got within three miles of Daly Waters when I saw four stalwart warriors, who are to the aboriginals ■* a kind of commercial traveller. Each warrior had a wooden bowl.'; These were filled with gumleaf scales» kind of manna- 1 - which they place in the bowls, tills they spit on, and roll about, afterwards adding a little kangaroo blood. This concoction, which is regarded as a great luxury, is " bartered for ainongst the members of the tribes." ' ,■ >V";.■;-;■:;;

In the neighbourhood, Birtles, who is a teetotaller, learned "what it feels like to be intoxicated. "I had just pome up to a camp," he remarked, '."when. I was offered some kind of root called pitchery. I did not know what it was at the time, so chewed away. Soon I exhibited all. the symptoms of intoxication. Some of the natives travel long distances to get this root, which is highly valued. Next day I ran into another camp. To my astonishment I beheld about 30 females sitting in the shelter of a gum leaf breakwind. This consists of a number of bushes piled on top of each other in semi-circular fashion to keep away cold wind. Theyj were all whitewashed, being in mourning. At intervals one of the party chanted a few words, when instantly the lot set up a series of howls thai were something dreadful to hear. Half a mile further on, the male portion of the camp went through the same proceedings. To show their grief they made deep gashes in their heads, and drove spears into their calves and thighs. Home of the warriors looked as if they had been worried.by a pack of wolves, the nasty bleeding scars and deep gaping wounds being sickening to look at." "While mourning goes on," said Birtles, "no _ one speaks. To make up for this deficiency, however, they keep howling every five or ten minutes. Whether the noise is due to the pain from their wounds or the loss of their departed I cannot say. After leaving this place I had a narrow escape. I had gone 'out shooting turkeys, and was coining back to camp, when I trod on a- snake fully Bft long. Not a second too soon I hit him with my rifle, and put an end to him. It was here that I 'came across some of the biggest anthills I ever saw. They are of clay, and often reach a height of..'2oft. A peculiar fact is that these anthills are built wedgeshaped, and in nearly every instance point due north and south, hence they are supposed to be magnetic."