LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLV, Issue 13722, 11 April 1908, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

\ [FROM our own -CORRESPONDENT.]", London. .'February 28. -Writing' 1 on the v subject, "'Some Advice for Beauty-Types," M. Jean Worth, the world-famous dress artist of Paris/ save that " pink is for: youth, yet there are women "■'■->■■ 'of 60 *nd upward who persist in wearing that colour. Green, too, is classed as a i trying choice, except for the fresh com- ': plexion with plenty of colour. In certain gradations of shade and in some lights it .'" makes a white countenance, which would ho beautifully framed in purple, look ' ghastly in the extreme;, "I could almost ' -say," writes M.. Jean Worth,' "that in- ;'-'. -Stead of. dressing 10 or 20 years younger -than their age, women\past their youth ;' . "would find it a wiser plan, to dress five years older than they really are. For what would happen? " Why, just this: . That people would say: * Why does ;jriadamo wear a dress so much too old for -her?',* Surely that is better than the reoaark: : ' Look -.at.", that old?,, woman pre"tending, to be a girl.' The happy medium, however, can* be acquired with care and taste." * " ' '■• ■ ''■' ' -.'" .' : '-' Further, the same authority makes a '"-"protest"-- against ' the craving for r novelty which induces women to change : the ' colour of their hair and the tint of their complexion. He calls it a "disease," "a mama 'for.; change," and, as an artist, lie ■'-" protests against it. He also objects to ; 4drßsses.- ( that are a mixture, of many diL , ' ferettb--niaterial3, lace of'one description ..-■' [-.. marring the beauty of lace of another type, dabs of cloth" or velvet interspersed with fringe, tassels, and fur. He admires simplicity and he telle *us that one of the ; best-dressed women in Paris buys only three toilettes a year. .' . A new material, guaranteed to be of British.,.make, has just put in an appearance. . It is called resiida, and is authoritatively characterised as being a link '". between ; Shantung and crepe-de-chine, hav- . ing the lustre and the softness of the latter, without being transparent it thus f renders a silk foundation unnecessary. It is to be had in all the new colours, whose ■■■. range includes lotus blue, musketeer i ■'. green, clematis, suede tan, malmaison, •' Canard" (duck), peacock blues and greens, ;' : " and the. tones of the crocus—purple and ! gold—as well as the mixed tints of the violet. Periwinkle blue is a pretty, soft tone,', and the flowers of that name are favourites of the milliners at the present moment, especially where hats for young people are . concerned, the - flowers being arranged ■ in] wreaths round the dome-shap-ed crowns and mingled with quantities of natural-coloured foliage and long tendrils. It. is expected that brown is a colour that will.bo worn to a large extent in the ballloom, ' the dresses in the different tones being made of tulle and mounted _ over a foundation of tarnished silver tissue, which gleams fitfully through its transparent veiling. The fabrics used for evening dresses are more varied than ever. Once again old -_ brocades and broches l are prominent with a soft finish thjjg;."aTfa"\vstlfem to be arranged on the rigure in becoming folds. - .Apricot vis ,-an- ■ other client That will be greatly to the f front tin ring the coming season. Waists art- to be worn long again. The fashions are all designed for length in front, with the now accustomed and grace- " ' nil -rising curve toward the back. Collarbauds are made abnormally; high and often look = rather chokey. - T With j the- exception of the tailor-made type, skirts usually will ..be longhand clinging, many of them draped in front, while the revival of the old J - wife skirt is ; announced in ; the realm . of tailor-mades. The Paquin corselet skirt ,1 hat ■ first appeared with three pleats :in ' 'front has given place to one- with . a great deal of drapery in the front, although the plain' skirts are at present just as > much worn, beside being better. liked.. The princess gown is coming more end more into favour. Provided the figure is good , • there is .Hardly a more becoming style. The princess is usually made plain, though new there is a tendency to drape the skirt ti'i't ' cloth*"is JC *t-he" best material for the *:yle. Then there will be the semiprincess style. This arrangement is merely a skirt "and bodice joined i together, or a skirt and over-blouse, with .which any * ordinary blouse is worn. Tin's mode does away "with all untidiness "at the waist, for there is no fear of a .gap making , itself; conspicuous between /skirt and * bodice. Skirl -and bodices are Deing combined in order to define and. outline the figure as closely as possible. There is, indeed, far more indication -of a waist than has been the case for some little time past. -Fashions in sleeves seem to be left largely to the individual choice, therefore there is a, good deal of variety. v The mandarin I sleeve is still liked, and it is sure to be in for some little time longer, while the long, 1 skin-tight sleeves, cut- into a point over the -Hand, have a smart: effect when allied to ' a braided redingote, and, again, > the i looser : sleeve, fashioned without a seam- and s-*}-S terminating in a 'wide gauntlet cuff, . made -of Velvet or cloth of a bright, contrasting t;ir* colour, from the jacket itself, has a marked ? claim on "the affection. If short sleeves ' are • preferred, then they • can be worn, but they must come to a position between the elbow and the wrist, and must not -terminate sharp at the elbow.