LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIV, Issue 13501, 27 July 1907, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

i [from OUR ■OWN, CORRESPONDENT.} '•• London, June 14. 'JPerhaps before very long the I little tucker, which ) has distinguished so many evening bodTt„ forlffieveritl seasons "< past, will disappear altogether; there are signs of its popularity waning, for the bodices of the new, evening dresses;arc cut away/over "a deep vest of snowy tulle, puffed and gathered, which gives a very much softened appearance to the outline of the dccolletage. In some instances the bodices are cut, open to the waist, the space being filled in in this manner, while the effect is further accentuated by the loose capo sleeves which are made up over undersleeves made of tulle in the same way; the tulle is frequently showered liberally with small crystal beads, while in some instances a charming effect is gained by threading silver ribbon through the tulle, each fold being outlined in,this way, while tiny bows of silver ribbon finished with clewdrop centres keep them in place. Tulle is greatly ■in demand for all sorts of things, and among latest novelties for Ascot are large Pierrot ruffles, in accordion-pleated tulle, dyed in all shades to match the dress and finished with heavy tassels'; a* pretty idea consists of a ruffle of pure white ring-spotted net with the narrowest possible edging of Valenciennes lace dyed- to pale shades, such as pink, blue, or mauve., , " Everything nowadays must match, and this idea is being more and more carried out with regard to shoes and gloves, so that now there is to be seen not only the daintiest of -black patent-leather footwear, but shoes and boots to match every. toilette, among which Empire green, Nattier blue, and the new cedar tones are in. demand. So liberal, are" the"shoemakers in their designs that canvas shoes for tennis and boating are to be bought not only in the accustomed white linen, but in colours, so that a mauve or blue or green or pink linen costume may have its colour emphasised by the shoes worn. Where gloves are concerned it is not very likely that the brilliant tones of kid or suede will be, much worn, so a compromise has been effected, whereby just a touch' of colour is introduced. For instance, a glove of, biscuit-tinted suede of elbow, length is ; turned up at the top with wine-coloured suede to accord with the dress, and with the shoes wine-shade. 0 These coloured tops are by no means cuffs, the effect given, is simply that of the glove having*, been turned back 1 ' carelessly as if to show the lining; 5 some of. the gloves are finished with points and buttons of the desired colour. •■:-■ " ,: So great is l still the demand for striped materials -that even Shangtuhgsilk is made in stripes; a very smart stripe that has' lately "caught on" - is that of khaki colour on deep cream—a mixture that suits both fair and dark people for this mixture the stripes must be rather narrow and somewhat far apart'; many of these are trimmed i with the same; material: cut "on• the cross, and : the ; effect is original. Whether the material be of linen, of woollen, or silk, or -of serge, or •of barege, the tailor-made of the trotteur costume as. favoured in :France; is made of some striped material. Generally white or cream-colour is the background, while lines of black or grey, or/ blue or lilac; in all widths, are drawn ; upon the surface ,of the material at intervals that are more or less regular. • A bold black and white striped linen had the, skirt pleated into deep pleats that were/ fixed as far as the hips, and thence fell loose to just above the ankle; the bodice formed a short y loose bolero that fell / straight, and was not fitted to the figure. /It was fastened down the front by wide eyelet holes embroidered in - black and white cotton, which were threaded through with a cordeliere of the same colours finished off with heavy tassels. The bolero was sleeveless save for- a short Japanese upper sleeve. ; Beneath it was worn a .lingerie blouse of : thin white muslin /trimmed insertions of narrow -Valenciennes lace. The short elbow sleeves were bound round '"narrow/ straps of the striped line cut on the cross; the bolero, too, was trimmed with bands of' striped ,: material cut.on the cross, so that the bizarre'effect • of ■ straight/and criss-cross -lines was most' original while also well up-to-date. , . The Japanese coatee that has now come to stay /looks very well made of striped linen with "brctelles" /of ■ the same stuff cut on the cross, finished- off back and with large i; buttons made of the same material, also cut on the cross. '

That the os'prey or sweeping Paradise plume has had a long run, both in millinery and evening head-dresses, is an.indisputable : fact,; and it if likely to continue popular. In the above sketch we see the Empire wreath, which is charming for the young girl,- " • :-■■■