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THE GARDEN.

The term •'edging" is applied to dwarf plants, such as box, daisies, violets, polyanthus, primroses, pinks, echevenas, dwarf geraniums, cowslips, lobelias, and; others that are adapted for the purpose. It also applies to turf verges, garden tiles, and edging boards, or other materials that may be used for dividing the bods, borders, etc., i from the walks and drives. Grass borders or verges, when properly kept and nicely clipped and trimmed, always present a refreshing appearance/ and are recommended for flower gardens and pleasure grounds. They should be wide enough for mowing with the machine when the ' lawns are cut. Box edging is largely used for small - gardens, and looks well when evenly laid and properly clipped. It has, however, the great disadvantage of harbouring slugs, which are so destructive here during the spring months. Close clipping and frequent dustings with, fresh lime will lessen the slug nuisance. It is necessary to properly prepare the ground and define the levels before laying an edging of any description for walks. The levels should first be obtained, and marked by driving in short pegs at convenient distances apart. If the pegs are placed right, and a line tightly stretched to touch their tops,- the necessity of adding or removing soil in any part along the line can be at once _ seen. Firmly tread the soil where the edging is to be planted, and also well rake and beat down with the back of the spade. Thework must be done when the soil is in fit condition ; that is, not so wet as to adhere to the,spade or to the foot," in treading, nor too dry, otherwise it will ■; crumble down and be difficult to cut out a back against which .to lay the cuttings or plants. It is impossible to cut out, plant, or fix an edging properly if the ground is not previously carefully prepared. The present is the most suitable season for planting box for edgings, as the cuttings will, have all the winter for making roots, and if carei fully nut in there should not be any failures. The cuttings should be made from four to five: inches long, and inserted about three inches deep and one inch apart, and well' firmed by treading. In dividing old plants, pieces with roots attached may be obtained. In every, instance the smallleaved, dwarf variety should be obtained, as much preferable to the stronger-growing tree-box. ' Violets are general favourites for" edgings, as they produce an abundant supply of bloom. There are now quite a .number of varieties to select from. Select

single crowns, and plant in oven linevtwo inches apart. Daisies, primroses, ecbej verias, polyanthus, pinks, and dwarf geraniums are all suitable for present plant- : ing. Violets and other borders that have been laid for a year or more are greatly benefited by being taken up and : having the ground" well 'manured : and dug : and the plants divided and re-planted. ; By doing the work at once the plants will have! ample time to become established and make j good growth before I tho flowering season j commences. In laying 'i edging: board the j greatest care must be taken to have ';■ the bends and curves properly defined, and sufficient pegs inserted to prevent the edging from warping and to keep it secure. Always apply a good coating of tar to preserve the wood. Pottery til© edgings are permanent, and give a good finish. They j must, however, be evenly and securely laid, using a mixture of sand and cement to! bed them in. When this is don© the edg- j ing will remain firm for many years. The j rope pattern tile is about •'": the best / and j most durable, and least liable to be dis- j figured by breakages. The other patterns are liable to have the ooints broken and chipped. The tile edging, when properly laid, should not project more than : three inches above the surface of the edge of the walk. : '.' : THE GBEEXHOCSE. "Up to the present the weather has been most favourable for all indoor plants, .and most varieties are looking unusually heartily and continue to make good growth, i his. of course, does not apply to bulbous and tuberous plants that have finished their season of- flowering and are now gradually dying away and. ripening their bulbs for their winters rest. These will need verycareful treatment at this time. Water must be sparingly applied until the tops j die away, giving just sufficient to prevent j the plants from wilting. It is at this time i that" numbers,of the bulbs and tubers are lost, mostly through excess of moisture in the soil. With all other plants, too, water must be carefully applied. As the season advances evaporation is not so great, the result being that the soil retains the moisture, so that water must only occasionally be given, and then only when the I soil , shows signs of dryness. Plants of; course varv as to amount of water needed.: Quick-growing plants, when; the. pots are | filled with roots, absorb double the amount of water that slow-growing plants ■ will. In all cases, however, care must be exercised, as excess of moisture at this season soon causes decay. All tender subjects should bo placed in the warmest and driest part of the house, and tho foliage kept free from drip. Cyclamens and other hardy plants that have .been plunged outside should now bo taken into the house, placing the plants in a light, sunny situation.; Primulas,, cinerarias,- herbaceous calceo- j larias, and other early-flowering plants j should be potted as the plants advance in growth. The latter require very careful watching, as they are most susceptible to the attack of the green aphis. The plants should be fumigated >ipon the first appearance of this pest. ' ' ANSWERS TO COBKESPONDEXTS. "J.L.," Napier: To properly explain and describo the process of drying figs '.would occupy too much' space in these columns. Briefly, an" evaporator would- bo required, as the sun heat would not bo sufficient in: this climate when .the figs are ready. The figs must be quite ripe, and gathered± so as to sccuro the whole of tho stem. Carefully arrange the fruits on shallow trays, I made for the purpose, and place them .in the evaporating or drying machine. They must not be allowed to- dry too hard. When sufficiently cured put them in sweat boxes for a few days, and when ready to pack dip them in boiling salt water or in a thin syrup, boiling not. Considerable practico and ~ experience is necessary >to achieve success. The figs require sulphuring beforo packing. , The manager of the Frimley Cannery,* at Hastings, would bo able to furnish you with full particulars. Your best plan would be '■' to dispose of the crop in the fresh state. ' " Lyra:'' 1. The best method of dealing with mealy bug is to fumigate the house with hydrocyanic gas. This is without doubt tho most effective means yet devised for ; dealing with this. pest. : " Instructions how to prepare and apply - this material have been frequently given in ' these . columns. In dealing with mildew, tho best remedy is dusting the foliage with dry sulphur. Vcrmorite and Bordeaux mixture,' too, carefully applied, aro excellont fungicides. 2. Tho cause of leaves withering , prematurely is ; probably tho result of faulty loot action. If the 'foliage is '■ badly attacked with mildew premature decay is sure to take place, bub even this disease is in most instances traceable; to : unhealthygrowth. C When vines faroi planted , : in soils that have " a.- subsoil' of. a ? stiff; clay f nature it* is difficult "'to", prevent* the - ;' roots -from penetrating - deeply, particularly : ' in a dry season. ;.■!' Such soil, however, ;is most uncongenial to healthy growth, and mildew is almost certain, to follow; can it "be prevented unless the cause is removed. j 3. :By no means burn sulphur in the house I it is a most destructive agent, and would ruin the vines. 4. No. More would be gained by lifting the vines ; and carefully re-plantings : thoroughly ;• preparing and manuring the borders as the work of lifting was done. Even with large : vines ; this is not l such a difficult >. operation, ■:■ as ' only the fibrous roots need to bejv carefully preserved, while "th* large, ; straggling, roots can be all cut away. .Manuring should always be done with-/the} view of encouraging the roots to come " to'.' the surface as much as possible. 5. Hints upon treatment at this ; season wtore ■'.; given tin last ; week's issue, and will be : * given ; from time' to time as the season requires. • 6. I have not yet ''■ seen the . pamphlet referred to. : -Would; advise your writing to ! the Department of Agriculture. I feel • sure tho inspectors would, give you any information they could. . Kefos.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19070511.2.96.42

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIV, Issue 13485, 11 May 1907, Page 4 (Supplement)

Word Count
1,463

THE GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIV, Issue 13485, 11 May 1907, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIV, Issue 13485, 11 May 1907, Page 4 (Supplement)