LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIII, Issue 13307, 13 October 1906, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

[FROM OUR , own correspondent.] London, September 1. Each year as the autumn season approaches we hear a good deal about tartan materials, and the use to which they will be put for dresses, for trimmings, and for millinery, and during this off-season we again are told a great deal about the advantages and charms of tartanswhether they are the real plaid or whether they are imaginary in their blend of colours and size of the pattern. Dark costumes are to be brightened by a waistbelt. and other trimmings of tartan ribbon or silk, especially perhaps dresses of serge or cloth. Waistbelts of tartan patent-leather are distinct novelties. For a long while past we have had belts of patent-leather in all the self-colours, and others of two colours arranged in stripes, but nothing suggestive of tartan designs und colours. Patent-leather belts at present are extraordinarily popular, and they are ridiculously inexpensive. Practically all of them arc very wide behind, narrowing off in front. In shape they are rounded, in colour then* is endless variety. A great many of their, are made in three pieces, machined toi gether, the width of each strip being generally about an inch and a-lialf to two inches. Waistbelts of tartan silk have been shown for some time, but none hitheiito of patent leather. In the matter of belts the variety is still bewilderingly large. The only point of similarity is as to depth, and almost without exception belts are very deep, especially at the back. Those of delicately-tinted silk elastic are still much worn, finished with a big oval buckle at the back and clasps to correspond. The elastic belts are made in every colour, so it is easy to get . one that will go with a dress of any shade. ' These belts are very much worn with the dresses of cotton voile and muslin; they have not been at all cheap, some specially reduced for the sales costing 15s apieceoriginal price one guinea—at West End shops. However, they can be bought much more reasonably now. Ribbon velvet, intended f»v waistbelts, lias a back of elastic which gives support to the velvet and prevents its making itself shabby by going into ugly wrinkles. A dainty waistbelt now means so much to the success of a dress. Those of ribbon and soft silk are all well-boned and becomingly shaped to suit the figure of the wearer, and in most cases they are the exact match of the colour in the material. Belts of several shades of ribbon are dainty, all in light colours. But there is a novelty in ribbon waistbelts, wherein shades from most delicate to the darkest are used. For instance, a rather wide belt, with upward ' point at the back, is formed of a series of 1 ribbon folds; the lowest is darkest of all, and the folds get gradually paler until the point at the top is lightest of all. Carried out in dark navy, to pale blue the effect is exceedingly good, and looks very well on a skirt of navy blue, with a blouse of light blue or cream. Again, dark claret shading off to delicate pink lias much to recommend it. These belts could easily be made at home, seeing that stiffened muslin beltshapes can be bought for very little, and the ribbon is simply placed on in folds one above thei other; ' ,in front the shape should taper , off > considerably. and as 'a -finish ■ there* ;is a? so-called buckle, which is made of quilled ribbon of the darkest colour in the belt, square in shape. For wearing with washing dresses of zephyr there are washing belts of white linen which are useful; some are embroidered in a punched design, the pattern being buttonhole stitched, and through this design the colour of the dress beneath shows through. The style is a simple and pretty one for slim girls. The mention of punched or embroidered holes, by the way, reminds me of one of the latest vogues which now is to be "seen in France, where the large patronage of white or cream cloth for dresses has resulted in a new idea. The cloth is handsomely worked in a design of broderie Anglaise, and the skirt is placed over a foundation of coloured silk, the coloured lining, of course, showing through the open embroidery pattern. The same ornamentation is repeated on the short bolero or coat or bodice, while a self-colour-ed belt of the lining accentuates the effect. At present the two colours most seen in this respect are crimson and green, but all shades of mauve are effective, indeed almost any colour would be. It is noted that another method of treating the white cloth gown is to supplement it - with a tiny bolero of Japanese silk, embroidered in bright colours, f and cut much in the shape of the once popular zouave. It is lined with silk muslin, and is edged with a thick gold embroidery worked out in a conventional or floral design.

Ink and olive, oil, mixed in equnl proportions, painted on the glove with a feather or soft brush, and then allowed to dry, will improve shabby kid gloves immensely. Suede ones may also be treated in the same way. Remember to use as little of the mixture as possible, or you will do,more harm, than good.