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THE GARDEN.

The heavy downpour of rain experienced this week has thoroughly saturated the soil, pre-, venting for a few clays all work that necessitated treading . upon the beds and borders. Clay and other soils of a retentive nature need careful treatment during the winter months, and must not on any account lie worked immediately after rain—otherwise disastrous results will follow. The surface will .bind, and , require extra . working in. spring to again bring the soil into a good state of pulverisation. Those who possess gardens where the soil is clayey are well acquainted with the force of these .remarks. Where practical, it is a good plan to allow seedling weeds to grow and coVer the groundduring the depth of the winter, and thus prevent dashing rains from battering and hardening the surface. The roots ot the weeds ■ penetrate and keep the soil open, and when dug in towards the end of the winter tend to keep it light and loose. Such a system might be adopted in the back borders and those parts of the garden that are least conspicuous. But, however beneficial to the soil, weeds must not for the sake of appearance, bo allowed to grow at any season in the small bods and plots immediately around the dwelling, or in the borders skirting the approaches, as they and the walks should always be (kept, neat and tidy. Volcanic soils and others of a light porous nature, may be worked shortly after the heaviest rains without injury. Those who possess such soil have a great advantage during the winter season over those who are located on clay lands, in that they are able to grow, a much greater variety of flowering plants. On the other hand, the. stiffest soils are better adapted for summer and autumn flowers, as they when properly cultivated, have more body, and retain the moisture better. Roses thrive best grown in strong loamy clay land. They are not a success in very light volcanic or dry sandy soils. The present month is the best for transplanting all varieties of roses. Early planting allows the plants to strike root and become thoroughly established. Old rosebeds should be gone over and.worthless plants rooted out and new ones planted in their places. Suckers from the roots should be removed. The pruning, with the exception of cutting back some of the long, straggling shoots for convenience of working amongst them, must Ik; deferred until about 111:• middle of July, which is the proper tim*> to prune all ro ;c s. Dahlias should now have siiHicient.lv matured thair top foliage to allow the roots to he taken up with safety. Cut the tops down'to within 9in or lft from the surface of the ground, then carefully dig up the plant. In doing so avoid breaking the tubers away from She stem. Remove all the soil from in and around the tubers. Label each (o keep the varieties distinct, and store them awa,v in seme dry place that is free from frosts. Some growers allow the roots to remain in the ground without lifting them. This is a bad system. The winter rains and frosts are likely to rot the tubers, and when left in the ground they interfere with the digging. It is not much trouble to lift the stools and store them away, and the ground is left free to work in the spring. Chrysanthemums, too, are better to be taken up and replanted in a bee! close together in some fairly dry portion of the garden. By this means the varieties are more certain to be saved, and being placed.together and labelled are more easily preserved from slugs. THE VIXERT. The heavy rains of the past week have afforded every opportunity of attending to the many- requirements of this department. In most vineries rapid decay of the foliage is taking place, while a large number of the vines have sufficiently ripened their Wood to allow of their being pruned with safety. So soon as the sap has returned, and there is 110 risk of the vines bleeding from "the returning of the sap, pruning should be done, even though there may he a few leaves still hanging on the vines at the time of pruning. When a mixed variety of. grapes are grown greater care must be exercised in pruning, as the vines do not all ripen together; the best rule, however, in every case, is not to prune until the sap lias returned, and there is no risk of the vines bleeding. It should be borne in mind that it is from the returning sap that the vines absorb and store up food and strength for their next, reason's crop. _ The longer season of rest the, vines are given after being pruned the better; the wound, too. caused by the knife, has t then plenty of time to heal, before the sap beroines again active. Although careful attention and manipulation in the house is necessary to ensure success, it is by no means the only important factor, as the most, -skilled grower cannot succeed and produce good grapes if tile root'- are not growing in healthy surroundings and conditions. Where these conditions do not exist, the dormant season is the time to set about removing the difficulty. Vines arc growing under very varied conditions—some in soils that are splendidly suited to their culture, and having all the attention necessary paid to their border*. Others. however. are grown in s-oil of a stiff, cold nature,, and though a certain amount of preparation may have been given to the borders the -inducement provided has not been sufficient to keep the roots within the prepared area, the result* lveing that: the rcots have penetrated soil that is quite uncongenial to

their growth ; »nd fruitfulness.. These unfavourably conditions must be removed if success ir to follow". To deal with the mealy bug, the worst of all pests of the grapegrower. the vines should be well fumigated immediately the grapes ire cut: at this stage the material can be applied at a much greater strength than would bo safe when the vines are in full growth and carrying fruit. The leaves that fall from the vines should hi removed as they fall and burnt. After pruning the whole of the house should be thoroughly cleaned and a portion of the surface soil removed and . replaced with good, clean soil. The best surface, however, for the inside of a house, is concrete or tar and sand. Kei'os.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19060602.2.52.40

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIII, Issue 13193, 2 June 1906, Page 4 (Supplement)

Word Count
1,086

THE GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIII, Issue 13193, 2 June 1906, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIII, Issue 13193, 2 June 1906, Page 4 (Supplement)