LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLII, Issue 12853, 29 April 1905, Page 6 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

[FROM OCR OWN CORRESPONDENT.]

London, March 25. Definite information is now announced regarding the fashions for the coming season, at least inasmuch as materials are concerned ; though in numerous details also we now know pretty well what we are to see worn, and it has been observed that certain changes are very marked, and that the styles to be followed this year are characterised by features differing from anything that has been worn for a considerable time.

It will be best perhaps to say something about Hie newest materials and the most fashionable colours. Apparently we are in for a " silk year," but there are plenty of other beautiful fabrics as well as silk for us to choose from. There is one variety of silk which is called chameleon taffetas, because 011 a background of pearly white the 1 *.brie flashes rose-pink, mauve, sea-green, or any other favourite dye. There is another make which is called "radium," because of the rare beauty of its satin-like surface, and the novelty of the dainty colours it displays; this make is really one of the soft new variants of the crepes, and its texture comes between a line, chiffon and the softest Japanese silk. It has the most brilliant surface that can be imagined, and ii takes lovely lights and shades into its graceful folds. Then there are the new cascade silks, with tiny rivulets upon the surface; there is a long list of taffeta? mousseline, brocade of opalescent effects, chine silks, and striped ami plaided taffetas, all of great delicacy and dainty refinement. Taffetas and other lightweight silks show checks in all sizes, and in a multitude of colour-schemes. A new type is a soft finish taffeta in rather large checks of light blue and white, divided by groups of black hair-lines. Shot effects will also be much worn, both plain and showing fine stripes of floral designs woven into the fabric. One lovely piece of this material was of the palest grey messaline shot with white and patterned with a flower in blue ; the flower as well as the grey is shot with white, and its outlines were hardly discernible, the blue seeming to melt, into the grey, with a silvery lone over all. The same idea is. of course, carried out in numerous other colourings. Perhaps the most marked novelty in the way of silks will be the pompadour printed chene silks, especially when they have a white ground bestrewn with flowerets and garlands. The tone used for the soft, blurred figurings are of the most delicate pastel shades, and make up with lace and velvet ribbon in the most delightful manner possible. The Indian and China silks have also adopted the, new colour schemes, arid in addition to the plain colours there are pretty stripes and checks in various tints; the fancy and flowered brocaded silks seem to be endless in their variety. Indeed, silk in every grade is to be used, from the most airy taffetas -chiffon up to the richest and most stately of Court brocades, covered with rich Louis XV. designs of flowers and ribbons, suggesting Court- trains or dinner dresses. .Fine hair-striped silks are to have another period of popularity. In the thin silken materials there are many modifications of the crepes, mousselines and gauzes, and a crepe mousseline which is specially prominent has its ground shot in two faint colours with the most delicate of little vine leaves running over its surface. The latest excursion into novelty which the toilette of hand-painted muslin takes is to veil its charms with olaek Chantilly lace, partly encrusted with jet. and the effect is considered to be exceedingly pleasing, while another quite new note is struck in a pure white lace dress overlaid with stitched strappings of white silk, which describe a pat- i tern. For reception gowns the new pompadour crepe de chine is to be largely used ; this somewhat resembles liberty silk, and has the same lustrous surface; a broad liberty stripe alternates with a stripe of the same shade in crepe, while over both is a floral design in pompadour effects. In nearly all dress materials the floral effect is prominent, and the latest floral pongees promise to be great favourites: while printed chiffons and mousselines with embroidered spots are 1 likely to ocftipy a leading position in the later demands. For lining purposes, too, silk is quite the correct thing, not only for dresses of all the newest diaphanous materials, but for tailor-made costumes as well, and indeed for dresses of every description. All the useful tailor-made costume? are lined throughout with silk this year, as the worsted suitings are of much lighter texture than has been used previously.

The sketch above shows a hat which should particularly commend itself at this season. Carried out in white feather, it is very smart, is quite up to date, and has the act - ditional advantage of being of a shape which will remain as placed, notwithstanding the wind —a by no means unimportant virtue at this time of the year.

It is probable that these, torpedo shapes w ill remain popular for a good many months yet. The "pill-box," we are told, is to become very fashionable, and given a suitable wearer is, of course, very nice. Unlike the torpedo, however, this other shape is not generally becoming, and the maiden whose face savours of rotundity, whose head is beyond the average in point of size, must beware how she invests in this newest of hats.

Of the shirt sketched one need say little, for it can be seen at a glance what it is like. Made up of white flannel of one of the better varieties which look and wash so well it is most prettily adorned in colour, the whole effect being extremely smart. The stitching and ornamentation may be done in pale blue.