A VISIT TO MONTREAL.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLI, Issue 12740, 17 December 1904, Page 1 (Supplement)

A VISIT TO MONTREAL.

. [IIY THE REV. J. T. PINFOLD.]

-MoxTHE.vt is rich in historical associations.The past and the.present arc wondrously blended, and in few other places of the world can the visitor see in so short a- time so many unique sights. From the time when Jacques Cartier, in 1535, set foot on its friendly shores, and from the summit of the neighbouring hill gazed upon the magnificent panorama that everywhere presented itself to his enraptured vision, till (he present time events have been occurring that have left, their deep and indelible impression on time's tablet. To the sportsman -Montreal is an attractive spot. From this city the hunter goes forth to wage war upon the giant moose of Kippewa, or 'J'emiscamuigue, or the fisherman gives the finishing (ouches to his tackle for either.a campaign among the trout of the Laurenliiui Lakes or the salmon of the Lower St. Lawrence.

In 1611 Samuel de Champlaiu laid the foundations of a town which lie named La Place Royal. For many years the French remained in possession, and it gradually became the .centre of a trade between the whites and the Indians. The latter often tried to take the settlers by surprise. Many evidences of romantic and bloody episodes remain unto this day, and can be seen in the older parts of the city. In less than 100 years from the last given date the place bad grown until it contained about 2000 souls. The town was surrounded by a wooden palisade 15ft in height. It possessed four gates, and was the centre of the Indian fur trade of the West. One of the warehouses in -Jean Baptiste-strect is a relic of these times, and is ah almost perfect example of the home of a, rich merchant of those times. In 1769 Amherst, the English general, marched upon Montreal, and forced it to capitulate, but there still exist plenty of evidences of the French origin of the inhabitants. The British visitor is apt to think that too many evidences are tolerated, and continued.

In several of the parks one meets as often the instruction to keep off the grass in French as in English ; and when one comes to u. railway crossing the legend "Traverse d:i chemin de fcr" meets the eye as often as the English for that statement. Iu trying to find my way about the town I have tinned to both youths and men to ask for directions, only to receive the reply in French, "I do not understand English." Our conviction, however, is that these people of French descent are intensely loyal to the British flag. In conversation, with one he expressed to me what appears to be the general opinion: "We have more liberty 'under the British Hag than we should get elsewhere. Certainly we have no wish to join- the United States.'.' These words express the universal sentiment of all with whom I have conversed. _ Montreal is the chief pott of Canada. It is also the financial and manufacturing centre of the country. Here many banks, as well as the Canadian Pacific and Grand Trunk railways, have their head offices. There are some very handsome ecclesiastical buildings in the citv. The great Church of Notre Dame is an impressive Gothic structure, with towers 227 f- high. The interior strikes one perhaps more than the outside. Its two tiers of galleries, as well as its breadth ami rich decorations, cannot fail to impress the beholder. Its organ is claimed to be one of the finest on the, Continent ; while its splendid orchestra and choir render attendance at one of the great festival services, when about 15,000 persons are present, a rare musical treat.

A whimsical legend has long been told of the corner of the present church on Sulpicestreet, where there is always a little breeze, even in the hottest weather. The devil and the wind, runs" the story, were walking down Notre Dame-street when this church had just been built. "Why," said the devil, " what is that? I never saw it before." "I. dare you to go in,"' replied the wind. " You dare me, do you? You wait here till I come out," cried the devii. "I'll be at the corner," said the wind. His majesty went iu, and as he has. never ye; conic out the wind has remained ever since waiting for him at the cornel'. . -..-.•'-..-. The Anglican Church is architecturally as line a building as Notre Dame, though not so showy. It is claimed, with considerable reason, that this is the most perfect church in Canada. It is an exquisite example of what is known as the 14th century, or decorated Gothic _ style. The service is "Low Church," and one strange feature about it is that its chancel faces the west instead of the east, as is usual. The Methodists have a very fine site on St. Catherine-street, with a beautiful building, known as St. Church. It is built of two kinds of stone that harmonise most satisfactorily, has two picturesque towers, and is 256 ft long. The city boasts of many statues, the chief being the representation of the crucifixion in Cole des Neiges and the beautiful bronze one of Queen Victoria and the Nelson Monument. Of hotels and theatres there are many, and the wishes of the most fastidious in this direction can be gratified. There are also several hospitals, the largest of which is the '"General," : situated in Dorchester-street, where, about 900 patients are treated daily. It is supported almost entirely by Protestant contributions, though its doors are open to all sufferers, without regard to race and creed. The business people of Montreal ate very enterprising, and are evidently up-to-date on the matter of advertising. One large firm advertised far and near that at a certain hour on a given day a marriage would be solemnised in one of their shop windows, and added, " You are invited to the wedding." Needless to say the people "took the bait," the crowd became so great that the police interfered, arid forbade the "show," because traffic in the adjoining streets was blocked. Running up to Mount Royal Park is an .inclined railway, sometimes called a cable car. at others an elevator. It is close to (he ordinary street car, and is greatly patronised. From its top a magnificent view of the whole city is obtained, and also of the suburbs by which ii is surrounded. Probably that for which Montreal will lie most noted in the future is the McGill University, which at present has six faculties, and has connected with it several theological and other colleges. It had its origin in private endowment, a royal charter was granted to it in 1812, and among its past governors has been Sir W. ,1. Dawson, who. with unfaltering courage and steadfast purposes, laid the foundations of a ''monument to enlightenment and progress that will stand as a, beacon tight .in the educational advancement of Canada, so long as her name shall endure."'