LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXIX, Issue 11986, 7 June 1902, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

;,:--. ;- - ; .)**Bt,- -V ,-/-...- LONDON FASHION NOTES. ' (WBITTEK spEciixiy tob THE new ZEALAND ■ HEK.VLD.) London, April 25. ■ j ' SoirJ-: of the newest kid gloves are of a very ' pale lavender reminiscent of those . worn many years ago. :; Some of them have ; • black points, others have white, and others i ■> have points of self-tone:: White gloves will ; ' stilt be fashionable, but not •so much as ' ilavender or "pale grey, the latter ; usually , having neat black stitching on the back of ' 1 ! the hand. Such gloves as these are not, of ■ 1 > course, for ordinary useful wear. .For the 1 I i latter occasions 'black suede with white : stitching hold first place; For evening wear -: 1 , there are very long mousquetaire kid gloves, in white. They are either of \2 or 16 but- > ton length. For those who prefer mittens I ; : may note that- these are again recognised I as the height of fashion in certain quarters,: j arid they are being patronised for dinner , and theatre wear; in addition to other even- f ing functions. '■' fJ , - .-' - ; All the working jewellers are now as busy as possible, mainly as the result of the pro- • nouncement that the wearing of;tiaras at tip? "orqriation ceremony has now been sanctioned, although it was stated some ,! weeks ago that they would not be permitted. The majority of tiaras already in existence ' .require remodelling; as those of the modern ■ crown-like shape could not be worn with the , orthodox-coronet. The ' shape most gener- * ally favoured seems to be that which is high in front arid tapers away at the sides. The design is always as light as possible. Most of the resetting is being doi)e in London, fqr ) although has the reputation for grace- i ful designs arid light devices, it is generally;, | held "that the setting is more beautifully arid lightly executed in London. "/Among Coronation crazes; the most prominent item at": present is the Coronation spoon, on which a A great run is expected frpm America particu- \ larly, as a favourite present and memento j of the occasion to take home to their friends.' | These spoons are. supposed to; be copies of ; the" one which is used in the-ceremony of anointing, but , there are various differences in .detail'-'in the designs as seen' at present, i The handles are usually broad and flat, with* a, heavy boss of chased metal about half-way down, and in all cases the bowls are wide , arid (shallow, ' some : being engraved" with ( typical' details, and bearing in old-fashioned • lettering ; the words • "Anno Coron': '■" E.R., i VII." ,-■ Others have little medallion por- \ traits in both the handle and the bowl, of f the King and Queen ; while tiny models of j the abbey in gold upon silver are-used at , ; other times to form the top of the handle. |j . / Fashionable tortoiseshell combs for the ; hair have the tops fantastically formed of a treljiswprk of pearls, often arranged to re- ; present flowers, while J the leaves of gold are tinted with green, In Paris these combs find much' favour, worn standing up high. For wearing round the neck, with evening dress, many people prefer a broad band of \ black velvet, which is mounted with a design in gems, pr ; of coloured enamel; and clasped, at the back of the neck with - a \ jewelled.ornament//Long-chains of,beads are getting more and more rare, happily, ■ and long chains as now worn are of gold; / usually, perhaps, dotted her and there w : th \] a precious stone, and with an antique pend- * |ant, or oblong pearl hanging from the mid- t*'dle. Necklaces of pink coral beads are ratlier nice, and seem still to be a good deal worn. ''/ ;/ ''•-■./ .'-,',"*■ '• Coronation" stockings are made, of silk, f At the Instep they ( are r inserted with a de- * sign in silk lape. upon which a crown is em- '{ broidered/ /Quite a number of the newest s Is stockings in black silk have cream lace ap- I pliques let in up the front of the instep, but ?< they are in anything but good taste. When N stockings are. worn which match the suede I shoes of white or pie grey of putty colour I they are always elaborately -worked 'in front ': with sprays of flowers,; or spangled, wjth f sequins, or even at times/real jewels ere f used. v These are \ showy and in■ bad taste, J \ ■ but they are novel, and on this account will 1 .probably find a certain number of patrons. ] Shoes and stockings of this type, and of any c of these tones are supposed to be worn,with h dresses to correspond in colour. The former ! ! nearly always are' made with a pointed flap i ] on the instep,* and are finished with a buckle i\ of old silver or of cut steel/; it Sequins, in moderation, are still favoured * as trimmings for day and evening '-gowns i and blouses alike, and the latest variety is' 11 very charming,, representing as : it does . the f J mother-of-pearl colourings. These are shad- { ed; and so give a shot effect, and are most ) fascinating on flimsy evening materials,'ar- t ranged in light traceries, when a dainty :* result is obtained. Sometimes a few dia- u lnonddewdro'prare'interspersed on the cor- j sage, these heighten the effect of the/ : 1 mother-of-pearl tones' in, the sequins, which ** look specially well on dresses of several j shades of * chiffon or silk muslin, or , {era- I phane, ; one '."colour 1: being placed over an- 1 other. For instance, there may be a forin-' ] dation of pale pink chiffon, with a veiling '] of blue and an overdress of watered! white c ■ silk muslin. : Sometimes as many ,'as' four < different shades of chiffon or sjlky' gauze are ■ used in • this mariner; and the mother-of- 1 pearl sequins blend well with the result., Perhaps garlands, of bhie 'and pink | forget-me-nots'; or pink buttrfn' roses, are ! more suitable for girls than the sequins, for { flowers are very much' qsed on evening dresses, and as a -rule they are of small ■ kinds, arranged in /-wreath "form, near the ; edge of the skirt, and outlining the lecol- : letage. ' If a chiffon sash ! is worn with such a dress, as it often is/ the most 3 up-to-date arrangement is to wear it loosely, knotted at one side of the front, and to pass 1 the ends through tt wreath of flowers /halfway down the skirt, and an edging of the ;-. same flowers keep the sash in its place. The ) daintiest evening '.' sleeves" ; just now are < often nothing: more thqri chains of flowers. b Dresses made of different coloured J transparent materials , can, with - sue- \ cess, be earned out only by the most artistic dressmakers. : / / : / , /'• For black evening gowns, line silk gauze. is perhaps the most pleasing material we 1 have <at present. / Ordinary silks and satins and brocades are out of date, except for the .- few who like to adopt the Louis XV. ? and < XVI. modes; Russian nets and other varieties of 'this material have' been : worn for more than a' year past—though they will doubtless be popular still— black silk gauze is newest at present. It is extremely effective ; and flowing, -and pretty fluffy flounces can be formed of it. In colours it t is dainty too- and many day,dresses oyer silk are being made of it ;in pale shades of various kinds, but perhaps it is most stylish ■ and glossy in black, and I think it will be much used./ It can be used just as well for : day as for evening dresses. Another ma-/ terial for evening wear is soft Orion satin, which is a very pliable and accommodating ! stuff, and one suited to present ..fashions.. • It often is a good deal tucked, groups of narrow tuckings, alternating ■ with . open drawn-thread/ work, arid is mounted over ; ] white or colour, preferably over white: An ' open-work nicely shaped yoke-belt to the ; top of a day dress in silk or silk gauze is very becoming, . and is usually placed over ' white silk.,. By the' way, in opposition, to ' wreaths and sprays of small flowers, on : evening dress and on millinery alike, there '$ are some . novel rosettes, / very H large in v size, . v simulating full- • blown flowers, chiefly roses. These are ; formed of loops of ribbon, with an artificial -J centre of yellow stamens, the whole I mounted on a green stalk. These ribbon | flowers are quite striking in appearance. 1 Kibbon is to be much to the front this year ] and among the latest varieties are those in I Pompadour designs, carried out often in rich 1 brocades, gold, and silver-gauze, etc. and < one of the most taking varieties is of white ] gauze, bordered with silk, and embroidered i up the middle with * long.slender trailing design of coloured flowers. // ..'-. s \ I "