LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXIX, Issue 11872, 25 January 1902, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

LONDON FASHION NOTES. [WRITTEN" SPECIALLY FOR THE NEW ZEALAND HERALD AND AUCKLAND WEEKLY NEWS.] London, December 14. At the present time evening gowns are very rich in every detail. The thickest and most substantial makes of satin, silk, and velvet are in request, and these, perhaps cut in Princess shape, are rather plain in effect, and save for a draping of real lace round the corsage and a flounce of the same round the edge of the skirt, loopsd up with jewels, little extra trimming is used. The trains, which are cut very l"ng, are much gored, and are round in shape. These thick materials are; of course, intended to be worn by those who are not exactly girls, and for them, too, there is white poplin, a material which is most favoured at the moment for theatre and evening wear on quiet occasions, while some people are having skirts made of it to wear with evening blouses. It is pointed out that those who aim at the newest styles should have a short basqued Louis XVI. coat of guipure for theatre wear as a change from the more ordinary evening blouse. This may be cut slightly open at the throat, or worn high, according to taste, with elbow sleeves finished with deep ruffles of lace. Just now there is an increasing tendency to wear high-necked dresses at theatres and restaurants, and for such occasions the new French taffetas in light colours, with trimmings of Spanish lace, are among the most fashionable materials. N

Black skirts with light-coloured blouses are regarded as being somewhat out of date now, so instead of black the choice seems to lie between deep cream and pale grey, two tones with which, it is considered, nearly every colour will go nicely. The embroideries displayed on many or most of the evening dresses of diaphanous fabrics are described as being " consummate works of art, apparently the work of fairy lingers, raised flowers in tinted mousselines veined with jewels and with silver leaves, or natural sprays of flowers formed of embroidery and silk, or velvet petals standing out in relief, There has been some controversy as to the origin of these embroideries of late, but on inquiry, after examining a specially beautiful specimens, the usual answer is given that that particular example came from Paris." Would it not be possible, it is asked, to attain to the same improvement in this feminine, industry which is so noticeable of late in the silks and brocades of English manufacture and design? On the latest evening gowns shoulder straps of diamonds are used, or perhaps a lattice-work of the same jewels, and from the lowest strap a frill of lace depends. Lately, however, so many people have been vaccinated that elbow-length sleeves are most seen just at present, though many of these leave the top of the shoulder bare. Just now blouses are exceedingly pretty. They have indeed never been prettier, neither have the styles been so varied, nor the number of different materials used been so extensive. Certainly, judging by present appearances, there is no likelihood of the. blouse going out of fashion for many a long day to come. There are so many grades of blouses intended to be worn at different times, and for different occasions. Especially taking are those of panne, silk, and velvet in light colours. In the latter material particularly the colourings were never lovelier. They are all artistic, and include the mist-blue, •jlematia, opal, purple iris, melon-green, nasturtium, poppy leaf, dove's wing, Malmaison, and heaps of others all of delightful shades, while tea gowns and opera cloaks are made from these colours too.

Delightfully taking blouses for afternoon " At Home" wear are made of the softest cream China silk. This is powdered with flowers which have been hand worked in coloured silks, the colourings, of course, varying, according to the flowers of the design. This embroidered part ornaments the fronts, while the yoke and box pleat are made of alternate medallions of the embroidered silk and lace. Except for this embroidery the blouse is very simple in style, simplicity having characterised the greater number of better-class blouses for some time past. For girls, point d'esprit net over silk makes very charming blouses, as it also does entire evening dresses for them, and some of the simplest, and at the same time taking model evening dresses for girls are made of the point d'esprit, looped in places with bunches of button roses, or other small flowers. Chiffon ' sashes, with long ends, make a becoming finish for girls' evening dresses. On some of the newest -evening frocks there is a revival of what, many years ago, was known as the tucker," a piece of lace or fine-worked muslin, run through with ribbons at the top and tacked inside the lowcut bodice. Leaving the costly and dainty theatre and evening blouses, 1 may note that many charming blouses of figured fancy flannels and Viyellas are obtainable. These flannel materials are made in tho most delicate of tones, figured or plain, and in texture the material is almost as fine as cashmere. Some of the newest Viyellas are figured with small floral designs, after the matter of a Pompadour silk. Trimmed with guipure lace, and perhaps, too, with plain coloured taffetas silk, extremely smart blouses may result, many of them being far too elaborate for ordinary morning wear, to which use only flannel shirts were put a year or so ago. Some of the latest stock ties for wearing in the morning with flannel or cashmere blouses are of soft satin. _ These have a deep stock neckband inlet with lace applications, and the two ends, also inlet with lace, are simply crossed in front, and fastened with a fancy pin. Some people like to pass the ends through an enamel and paste marquise ring, which keeps the ends firm at the neck and allows them, to fall as they please later. Sets of jewelled buttons are now fashionable, and these are intended to bo worn as glove buttons. For white evening gloves, for example, small turquoises set with white enamel are favoured, while pearls are also used as buttons for the same kind of glove. For afternoon wear there are glove buttons made of gun-metal, each button being set in the middle with a small diamond or other gem. When jewels are not employed as glove buttons it seems that white mother-of-pearl are regarded as acceptable and correct substitutes. No mechanical fastenings are to be seen on the latest gloves. There is a new tone of suede glove which is called "natural" because it is pale pink, or flesh tint; this is intended for evening wear, and it is said that when these new "natural" gloves are worn it is not easy to tell whether the hand really is covered or not.

HOW SOCIETY WOMEN'S HEALTH IS RUINED. Tub influences which undermine the health of the society woman are those which act upon her nervous system, such as her money anxieties, her lack of time to carry out her ambitious projects, lier great exertion—if she is a parvenunot only to achieve her position, to mount the social ladder, but to become acquainted with all the properties arid actions to carry out her new role—all of which bear heavily upon her nervous system and tend to a nervous breakdown.

The society woman turns night into day. The late hours which entertainments, operas, and balls institute are not in themselves injurious, provided the sleep is made up; but it is not possible to burn the candle at both ends without serious injury to the health. The bed demands very nearly, if not quite, one-third of the twenty-four hours. Repose is essential in order that the waste products of activity can be removed. Sleep not only "knits up the ravelled sleeve of care " but it renews the ravages made by the wear and tear of life. Nerves, glands, organs, and muscles arc renewed in this period of repose, and prepared to resume their activities anew. It is said of even inanimate tilings that the atoms and molecules of which they are composed need intervals of cessation from the work to which they are applied. The complex being with .her delicate nervous adjustment—the society woman—must have her periods of repose regularly and of the usual length. They must not occur at the ordinary "time of common folk, but they must be taken in full measure.

Tho D.S.O. must bo highly pleased with the. result of yesterday's sale. Their extensive warehouse was crowded with customers, eager for the bargains usually given by drapers at. their clearance sales.