THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXVIII, Issue 11825, 30 November 1901, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

UxusrALLY strong, harsh, cold, drying winds have for the most part prevailed throughout the month. The rainfall has been slight and the temperature extremely variable—very cold at nights, sometimes verging on frost. Such conditions at this advanced season of the year are most unfavourable for gardening. Many of the plants in exposed positions have l>eon damaged with the winds, and the floral display much curtailed. Thorough shelter from the cold, southerly winds is an absolute necessity. It is most disheartening after perhaps months of careful tending and anxiously watching some favourite plant to have its flowers destroyed almost as soon as they expand. Evergreen hedges, composed of plants that are best adapted to the soil or situation, provide the best shelter. In the laying-out of new grounds and arranging for the planting the sheltering, if not naturally provided, should be a matter of paramount importance. On account of close proximity to the sea on either coast strong sea winds convey a certain amount of salt spray with them that is injurious to most varieties of trees. Many of the hardy European trees cannot ba grown successfully unless protected from these winds. Work in the garden will be mostly of routine character, such as hoeing and weeding, to keep the various beds and borders neat and tidy. Attention, too, must be paid to stalling the different T)]&r;ts that require support. The planting of dahlias may- still be proceeded with. The cactus .-:-•-;,- are the most popular and useful for garden decoration. Pompon dahlias are also extremely showy and useful for cutting. The soil has been too dry and the weather too harsh to continue planting a general collection of late annuals. Better wait for a good rain and then fill all vacancies in the beds and borders with phlox, povtulacea, miniature' sunflowers, zinnias, cosmcea, petunias, celoaias, etc. Late-planted annuals come in to make a good autumn display of flowers.

KITCHEN' GARDEN. This department should now be well storked with vegetables of every description. The main requirement will bo to keep the hoe constantly going to kill weeds and to looker, the surface soil. Stake tall-growing peas and runner beans. Attend to the various sowings for succession, particularly those of beans, peas, lettuce, mustard, cress, and radishes. Thin out melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, marrows, and watermelons. Three or four of the healthiest and strongest plants are sufficient to leave to each hill. Stir the surface soil around the seedlings and remove the artificial protections. Attend to the tying up of tomatoes to their stakes, and remove lateral and other superfluous growths. Prepare trenches in which to plant celery plants : the end of Decerning is quite early enough to plant, but the trenches are better to be prepared two or three weeks beforehand.

THE VIXF.EY. The continuation of harsh, drying winds that have prevailed almost incessantly for months past and absence of sufficient rainfall to thoroughly moisten the soil in the bordera will necessitate very careful attention being given to this important department. At this advanced stage of the vinos they require ail abundance of moisture; in fact, it is almost impossible to over water a well-drained border during the summer months, although a nice, genial moisture maintained from the starting of the vines until they are well finished is the best. I have again and again advised thoroughly mulshing the borders early in the season, while there is plenty of moisture in the soil, and in a season such as the present the advantage of this precaution is at once apparent. This precaution, too. is all the more necessary where a plentiful supply of water is not obtainable, but in any ease much labour in watering is saved by mulching, and there is less risk of the berries splitting after the first heavy rainfall. The inside temperature must be carefully looked after. Sudden changes of temperature are at all times injurious, and when the grapes

arc approaching the stoning period they require to bo closely watched until they have passed this stage, particularly during hot, stormy, and unsettled weather. This critical period docs not last more than a fortnight or three weeks, but serious results, which cannot bo got over, are often the result of a few hours' neslect. and many of the best bunches ire seriously damaged, if not quite destroyed, for the season. Scalding is the term generally applied to the berries injured, and is generally the result of allowing the sun to strike the roof of the house too long before ventilation is given to carry off Superfluous moisture and the vitiated air that naturally accumulates in a'honse kept closed up during the night. Never allow the temperature to rise too his;!] in the morning before air is admitted, and do not ventilate with the object of reducing the temperature, but rather to prevent it rising too high. It is far better with late a< pes to always have a little air on than to ran the risk of neglecting it even once. Strong, vigorous-growing vines do not often require stimulants applied until after tile graces are thinned, but unless they are very strong and the roots have an extensive run" in a well-prepared border liquid manure can be given with advantage about once a fortnight until the berries show signs of colouring, when only clean water should be used if watering is then necessary. The thinning of the latest-started varieties will now be drawing to a close. This is always a great relief to tit* grower, as stopping, tying, and other necessary work is always allowed to fall in arrears when this important work is on hand. The stopping should lie done regularly, going over the vines at least three times a week and removing- all lateral growth that is not required to furnish the trellis with foliage. By this means the work will always be well in hand, and there will be no risk of injuring the vines in the operation. Kepos.