LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXVIII, Issue 11825, 30 November 1901, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

LONDON FASHION NOTES

(WRITTEN SPECIALLY JOB THE NEW ZEALAND IIER.U-D-)

London, October 18. There is a new feather trimming, sold by the yard, which is used for edging the brims of hats and encircling the crowns. The feathers ars tiny and are set close together. Bird plumage is tremendously used in the foundation of autumn toques and hats, and some of the tints are extremely pretty. Plumage alone is sometimes seen, or it may be varied by having the crown of plumage set into a brim of velvet. Vi iugs are pretty for trimming them, and shower feathers of different shadings droop over the upturned brims of boat-shaped hats. There are breasts of owls. too. and wings of parrots, but neither of the latter receive much patronage on account of the inhumanity of the fashion. Imitation grev and white seagulls, and other larg* birds, "are a good deal employed by milliners just now." Flannel is to enjoy a triumph this winter which it has never hitherto approached, for it is to be used in millinery. Flannel hats of cream or other colour are stitched and bound with spotted taffetas, and trimmed with rosettes of the same and with quills. Some are rather nice, but one does not feel equal to waxing enthusiastic over flannel hats when there are so many lovely models in other and more effective materials. . Many of the picture hats in soft draped feutre 'are made in most lovely colourings, including soft strawberry pink, cream, pale blue, and the most delicate mauve. A good manv of them have slit-, in the brim, avid in and 'out of these slices soft silk or velvet is threaded, either in black or in a colour a few shades deeper than the felt itself. Many of these threaded hats have very little other trimming, for the shapes themselves are elaborate, and broad, mid fancifully bent about. There is at times a. beautiful ostrich feather placed under the brim at one side. or. perhaps, a trail of flowers across the front, just'resting lightly on Hhe brim. For these trails the most lovely flowers are used, such as roses, clematis, begonias, dahlias, all in velvet and silk of exquisite colourings. Some of the foliage is charming, too. especially the light-tinted green and white leaves, "while sprays of velvet foliage in rich autumn tints are considerably emploved at present, but ore used of course without flowers. Some of the big. spreading hats, slightly trimmed, nave a big, spreading bow of* velvet, wth ends falling over the brim at the back: indeed, dangling ends, or hanging trimming of some description, characterises the backs of ever so manv of the new models. Brims of some of the- pile-tinted felt hats are draped with lace and trimmed with a single band of black velvet, fastened with a large antique buckle. As a rule, the autumn hats and toques are rather sparsely trimmed, the monstrosity of some which are distinctly peculiar in appearance consisting not in any extravagant use of trimming but rather in the want of it, with very many exaggerations in the uncommon treatment of the crumpled r.nd bent about brims. Some of the blocked felt shapes, too, are distinctly eccentric, with large sweeping brims in front or at one side., and none at the backLined brims characterise the velvet and panne hats, the lining usually being tucked, but lining to the new drap de feutre shapes would be as unsuitable as unnecessary. When the brims are threaded the velvet or silk used shows just as much under the brim as it does on top and makes quite, a trimming. While flatness is the salient feature concerning most of the models there are still a good manv where the trimming is placed comparatively high. Jr. is the big, spreading'shapes." which a<e neither /rats nor toques, that are so Mat, and when these are worn the low style of hairdressing must prevail, though the knot extremely low down on the neck is found extravagant for the dress collar at any rate, if not for the blouse or bodice itself, because it so soon becomes soiled when the hair has been coiled upon it. With some of the biggest and flattest bats and toques it- is possible to dress the hair on the top of the head. But then it is not possible to have any upstanding knot, for the toqu, would never have a chance of staying on. or of fitting the head. Most people don't bother about extreme fashions in hairdressing or, indeed, in anything, but simply wear what best suits "the needs of the occasion and their own appearance. Toques have had a wonderfully long run of favour, and yet they still seem to retain their popularity. Some very dainty models are made of drap do feutre. velvet, or sideline, and tilted'a little high to one side. This year, on the whole, toques are large and turbanlike, and a. good many are made of two material:*, velvet and fur, velvet and plumage, or zibeline and velvet being often used in combination, ihe materials forming the crown being arranged in soft folds, set in a border of velvet or fur. They do not boast of much trimming, often two upstanding ears of panne or velvet forming the sob? relief, the ears perhaps being ornamented with some design executed in hand-paint-ing, or else simply relieved by the addition of a little lace applique. ■ All the French model toques are simplicity itself, just as are most of the French hats" Lined scallops of velvet, in a pretty tone, form rather a, pleasing border to some of the toques of drap de feutre, the edge of the scallops being cut out like leaves. Spotted foulard is a material which continues to find a good deal of favour in tho millinery world, and some of the toques are bordered with it, the crowns being of velvet or plumage, or whatever one may desire.

it looks as if white hats are to be fashionable, ris well as lie others in delicate tones of grey, both in the lovely glossy and plisb'e material known as drap de feutre. As a rule, they are of the picture type and plume-trimmed, and there are a good many examples about at the various millinery establishments. In the upturned marquise shape there are a. good many of white, trimmed very si: ,,r with a deep band of coloured velvet, i, rosette of the same, and a shaded aigrette. Some aro trimmed with pheasant plumage, but then the white of the felt and the colouring of the plumage don't seem to be in keeping with each other.

For dressy blouses, suitable for theatre wear and fur quiet dinners, soft silks, crepe de chine, satin, and panne, are principally used, tne two bitter fabrics being most often seen in dee;) cream tones, with trimmiiiL's of sable and encrustations of rich ivory lace. Silver or gilt buttons are used as a finish to blouses of this class. nearly all of which have the transparent yoke. When the blouses have a deep box pleat down the middle of the front—and very many of the newest have—the pleat is ornamented with the buttons, and is bordered on either edtre with bands of sable. Velvet blouses are going to be very fashionable this season, and a good many ot them are finished round the waist by a small added fluted basque, which some p»onle think presents to the blouse a more " dignified" aspect. The velvet blouse must match in colour the skirt with which it is to be worn, and seme of the dressmaker:? are sending home with a cloth costume a velvet blouse which can bo worn in turn with the bodice.

For wearing with cream hats there are cream boleros, and short sac jackets made of caracul. ' Those are costly and extravagant, but dainty items, and very suitable to pretty, tall, and moneved girls. The caracul is culled white in some quarters, but really is deep cream, about as deep in tone as it is possible for cream to be. Some arc not all trimmed, merely having big paste or steel buttons down the front as a finish, but some others have black velvet added down the fronts, while the coat may be set into a deep corselet belt of the black"; or, again, there may be a collar or other trimming of sable. 'While caracul is considerably more becoming than ermine. Some people are making a point of having their fur toques arid raffles and muffs to match with a velvet and sable toque. The stole tippet will also he of velvet and sable, while the sable muff will have a bow of velvet introduced, or the velvet muff a touch of sable.

The following is given as an "infallible recipe" for a- theatre blouse, a garment which is becoming more elaborate than ever : " Take a yard of material, cut it and slice into medallions, which tuck finely. Then fill Up with insertions of lace, straps of velvet, embroideries of sequins, encrustations of chiffon flowers, and any other fabrics that you may fancy. Any will do, so long as they efficiently disguise all but an inch or two of the original material. Garnish the whole with crood cut, style, and skill. Add a sprinkling of good taste (not always used), and put it in a public place in a good light,"-