LADIES COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXIV, Issue 10425, 24 April 1897, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES COLUMN.

LONDON FASHION NOTES. [WRITTEN* SPECIALLY FOR THE NEW ZEALAND HERALD.] London, March 5. In view of the anticipation that the fashion of wearing long sleeves to dinner gowns and evening dress generally will remain in vogue for some length of time—throughout this season at all events—rumours are whispered that silk openwork and lace mittens will be reintroduced. But it is by no means certain as yet whether this revival of another old fashion will be at all eagerly welcomed. Gloves have become too popular to be all at once discarded in favour of mittens, for English people are very conservative about most things— not merely confined to the question of dress. But this is only one reason why little fear is displayed that gloves are to make way for mittens, for these latter, while they do show to full advantage wellshaped and well-cared-for finger-nails and valuable rings, are generally considered, on the whole, to be rather unbecoming than

Novelties in the new season'* dress materials still continue to be showered upon us, and fine silk canvas and grenadine— plain or brochd— among the latest things, in which materials all shades aro obtainable. But these shades do not in

themselves constitute the novelty. Here is where that point comes in: Two canveses or grenadines, which have every appearance of being quite distinct and separate from one another, are in reality woven together, or to be more exact, they aro woven together at the edges and the two are also caught at intervals so as to prevent drugging. This of courso reproduces the shot effect.

In addition to the moir<s effects produced by the silks known by that name, this particular make of silk is now seen bro-

caded with flowers, varied in size and usually placed at some distance apart, and other moiri silks again are cheoked, with a contrasting shade. Through these sundry figurings the inoirS effect stands out surprisingly well. Plain rich satins are prominent features, as also are brocaded and figured silks of every make. Checked materials are now being used for coat and skirt costume!, and most of the checks, fortunately, have the merit of being very small— fact are quite indiscernible any little distance away. These shepherd's plaids are not merely confined in shading to black and white, but Are to be had in all colours. A large number of the coat and skii-c costumes are made with un

Eton jacket or some form of bolero. There are still many of the double-breasted and open-fronted types, and there are a few stray modols in which the coats are made in the W'atteau style, both back and front, and reach just 119 far as the waist. The yoke part of the jacket is ornamented by rows of small buttons. Small buttons are con-

sidered to be newer this year than are large one. Nothing, I think, could be more unbecoming than these Watteau jackets, and they stand little chance of " taking." Instead of being prominent feature, as is usually the case, buttons on single-breasted jackets are sometimes hidden completely from view, being merely fastened into their holes, which are worked 011 a piece of cloth which is sown just under the front of the coat. This seems rather a mistake, for on a tight-fitting garment of any description buttons always form a relief and take away any inclination there may bo ot stiffness. Among the woollen materials for summer wear, self colours seem likely to hold their own, more especially for dressy occasions, and foremost among this class of material we find cashmere, either single or double, the latter variety being known as cashmere cloth. As braiding will be generally adopted, cashmere and also satin-faced cloths are sure to be largely employed for spring costumes, as each of these materials lends itsolf well either for braiding or for

6mbroidering. The rumour which gained currency some few weeks ago that coats and jackets were to be enlivened by having their revers, cuffs and collar of bright coloured velvet—

notably reds and crimsons—is now becoming a reality. Among other costumes there was one of dark blue cloth whoso' coat fast-

ened invisibly down the front. At each side, a fow inches from tho front, the cloth was slashed up from the lower edge, and fastened over a pleating of crimson silk, with narrow straps of black silk picot braid held down with mother-of-pearl buttons. The turndown collar was faced with silk of tho same shade, and so wore til/ cuffs. In the same style a drab jacket is described as being faced with blue velvet, and a tan coloured bolero was trimmed with pink velvet, tho latter being piped with black. I expoct that before long this style, which is just now in its infancy, will suddenly be received with open arms, so to speak, und remain the stylo for some time to come. Accordion-pleated skirts are gradually being introduced, and it is said with a certain degree of success. This pleating is also tormed " sun-ray," since it widens out from waist to hem, " as tho genial beams of King Sol do from their birth until their disappearance from our lien." A dress made in this stylo is thus described :—The material was block silk, and the idea was emphasised by lines of small black sequins in graduated length down the centre of each pleat, but not continued to the hemonly about half-way down the skirt. 'the bodice was of sunset shot pink silk veiled with black not, tho back embroidered in slender lines of jet, the front having cunningly devised revors of jet and steel embroidery. The shaped and folded waistband was of pink shot silk, and there was a small bow to correspond on the collar, While in Paris perfectly plain skirts are said to begin to have a somewhat bare appearance, it is thought that it will be some time yet before much trimmed skirts will be liked, and therefore it is uncertain just at the present stage whether fluffy ruchings or flouncings headed by bands of velvet, lace, or passementerie will or will not be universally liked. But this is an instance where gradual change must be looked for, for after having plain skirts with us for so long, it is quite natural that trimmed skirts will not all at once become first favourites. ODDS AND ENDS OP ETIQUETTE. Cards are not sent in before the visitor at anything except a business call. The name should be distinctly given to the servant. When leaving a neighbourhood, cards, with "P.P.C," in one corner, should be left on all one's friends and acquaintances. An effort is being made to brine in the custom of addressing unmarried women of an uncertain age as " Mistress" So-and-so. For example: " Mistress Jane Smith." After a death in a family cards should be left at the house, with "sincere sympathy" or "sincere condolencos" written upon them. At a wedding all fees are paid by the bridegroom, who hands them to his best mm for the clergyman, verger, and all other recipients.

ENGAGEMENT RINGS. The prettiest idea I have heard about for a long time was ordered by an artist the other day. It consisted of a triple circlet of rings joined together by a tiny bar at the back. The middle circlet had a diamond setting. The lower band was set with the fiancee's birthday stone, and the upper one with the birth stone of his. This is to say, if one chanced to be born in February and the other in October the diamond would be side by side with an amethyst and an opal. This was a facsimile of the ring worn by the girl's great-grandmother. The bracelet is not unpopular as an engagement symbol, and in that case it consists of a chain, and is cemented on to the wrist. An engagement ring may be set with two or three stones, combining emeralds and diamonds, pearls and diamonds, or other attractive combinations, but the solitaire is generally most liked. MRS. GRUKDY ABROAD. The etiquette of the Netherlands is ironclad, and knows no change among high or low. An unmarried girl must always take the right arm of her. escort, while the married woman utilises the left, perhaps because it is nearer ,the heart. The chaperonage of the young girl is perfect. She never dreams of going anywhere, even to church, unless accompanied . by her parents or some male member of the family. At a dance the parents sit round the room like wallflowers, sipping their coffee or wine, and the interested young men must make the most of the opportunity afforded by the dance; for when it pleases the parents to retire from the ballroom their daughters go with them. . , _ .