LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXIV, Issue 10419, 17 April 1897, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

AUSTRALIAN FASHION NOTES. For the past few weeks I have done little beside mark, learn, and inwardly digest all the infermation that is necessary to be cognisant of in connection with th.6 approach of the new season. In short, I have studied the fashions with avidity, and have arrived at the conclusion that there never was a time, so to speak, when one coulJ pay one's money and take one's choice so thoroughly. In the first place, take the cut of the sleeve if you elect to be French in your taste. You may still wear comparatively large sleeves oven in your tailor-made gowns and coats; though, should you wish to be strictly English, your sleeves must be all but destitute of fulness, and, in fact, modelled on the lines of the tnalo coat aleevo; and personally I nuu own to preference for the latter style. In the evening the balloon sleeve is no longer to be seen, and if you are the fortunate possessor of "arms of beaucy," you may wear a shoulder-strap or a small, soft draping of chiffon, lace, or some other flimsy fabric, completed by perhaps a garland of flowers ; but, should you desire to veil your arms, you can do so and yet be fashionable by swathing them in multitudinous folds of transparent material, or sheathing them closely iu long gathered casings which reach from shoulder to wrist. Again, in skirts you can almost pleaso your own individual fancy as regards width, lining, and shape, for the varieties aru more extensive than ovor.

Black and white in every style is still to the fore in Fashion's field, and I predict that it will never bacoine common, for it is simplicity that produces its effect; for what could bo prettier than a well-fitting dress of small black and while check worn with a filmy waistcoat of gooA old lace, well flounced and caught at intervals with straps of blr»ck ribbon velvet? And tho hat, I would suggest as a contrast, should be one fashioned as a toque of two or three shades of old rose velvet, simply ornamented with a mixed aigrette of black and white ooq's feathers. Wβ are nob only to wear brocaded silk bodices, but also brocaded woollen ones, with plain skirts of contracting colour. For instance, blue and black brocaded woollens, with green and blue. Thoy are being made with wide cape-like revere, many bordered with fur, having a narrowbasque and a belt above, and will make warm winter gowns, far bettor for the season than silk.

The turndown collars and cuffs are no longer considered good style, doubtless due to the fact that the employee! in most of the largo shops have taken to wearing them, and in their place we are to have linen ombroidored collars, edged with a frill, also little narrow linen turn-over collars, worn with a twice-round cravat, and altogether smart and simple. Plaid and tartan are trying har.l to force themselves to the fore, and may succeed to a degree. They are boin,: made up into Tain o' Shunter caps, also ties of the new order, which form a big bow in front of tho turn-down collar, and «re particularly suitable for morning wear. Of course embroidery is the fashionable accessory to every gown, and in fact it it possible to use it on almost every garment we possess. Scrips of embroidery may be used joined together with lino batiste, or chiffon, or black velvet ribbon, and thoy make lip into charming bodice- when brought up mid round the fiiruro according to ilia taste of the individual. Collars of embroidery may be adapted to every style of costume : and the same maybe justly said of boleros of embroidery, which can be either cut round or straight, loose or tight, pleated or plain, according to the amount of material we may have to spare.—" Thalii," in Sydney Mail. MOURNING AND ITS CUSTOMS. In this country above all othors we havo reasons to be thankful that tho rules of mourning and the wearing of black are by no means as rigid as they wore in former years. In hot weather the wearing of black is not only intensely uncomfortable, but absolutely dangerous to health. Of course, the whole matter still is and always will be one of personal feeling, and one thnt has to bo approached with much consideration. Reactions generally lead from one oxtrome to another, and so from the wearing of many yard." of crapo we have come to the point of doing without it altogether. This extreme ie, however, not general, the signs of a happy modium being in greater favour, The wearing of a small quantity of crape is naturally consistent with the grief-stricken stale; and, in addition, it serves the purpose of protecting tho wearers from thoughtless questions and remarks. Again, black has become such very general and favourite wear with both old and young women that it conveys no notion of mourning, whilst crape at once Sices the attention and creates a feeling of sorrow and sympathy. A few years ago we would have been scandalised at the idea of mixing jet with crape, but now it is allowable in the deepestmourning. Tho old idea of wearing flowers made of crape is quite done away with, and is considered an anomaly that is never practised by those familiar with the new rules. For these dowers are substituted others formed of silky black gaums, velvet, and bunches of jet, the crape being introduced in the form of loops, folds, and bows. Even the widow's bonnet is not allowed to pass without change. The white cap has become little more than a tiny tucker, and the long veil of crape that frequently fell far below the waist is now quite short, and rarely descends below the shoulder line. The newest mourning gowns have sleeves of crape, a material well adapted to the present style of shirring and rucking. Ib also forms shoulder-capes, yokes, revere, or, where they are not used in the making up, a deep folded corslet bolt is an effective and tasteful finish that gives a suggestion of what ie intended. Jet may also be freely used, even in the very deepest mourning, after the first four months.

The periods for wearing black have beon much curtailed, Widows, as a rule, still adhere to the deepest; bub, of course, ib is not so extensive as of old, and is seldom put aside under involve months. Cashmere is again coining into vogue, especially for widows' dresses and c.ipes. The new kinds are much thicker, and have almost the substance of the once much-favoured Henrietta cloth. Sometimes this form ot dress consists of a plain skirt, with a slight introduction of crape on the bodice; but, as ib is a matter of feeling, the ornamentation must be left greatly to individual ideas and tastes. The latest widows' bonnets are small, closefitting, and very simple. As the veil is much shorter it is more convenient for wearing over the face, but here again personal feeling is the great guide in the matter. Those who are in mourning for parents seldom do so for less than six or nine months, but very little crape is adopted during this time ; indeed, it may be little more than simple ordinary black. About) the same time and style is allotted to the mourning of a parent for a son or daughter. For a sister or brother six months is considered sufficient for black, half-mourning being allowable after that period. The son« and daughters are often the only ones who really wear entire black for grandparents in those days, the grandchildren and great grandchildren, if there be any, merely adopting half-mourning. For elders who wear black, from four to six months is considered sufficient. For an aunt or uncle, from two to three months, black only, no crape. The mourning for a distant relative, such as second cousin, is also simple plain black, without! crape, and such mourning does not necessitate persons excluding themselves from society after tho funeral has taken place; therefore, they can go oub as usual, simply appearing in black instead of colour, for a month or so. Mourning for relatives by marriage cornea under the heading of sympathetic or complimentary, and is worn for one month, consisting of ordinary plain black, without any introduction of colour. Mourning materials are very much the same as they were of old. Rich dull silks, velvet, crepe de chine, surah, and Indian silk are .'all permissible fabrics, but satins and other glossy-surfaced textures are not included under this heading. The dust gathers quickly on all black materials, and for this reason it is absolutely necessary they should receive more than ordinary attention, or they will toon loso their freshnete, dirty black being the worst of all blacks, A eofb brush should always be kept for cleaning crape, as a hard one penetrates the grain And tears it. The same kind of brush is also the best for silks, and an old linen handkerchief rill do much to rub its surface after it has been brushed. For ill woollen textures (here ii nothing

better than a gooil hard brush. No brushing can be thoroughly successful unless the garment be taken into the air and well shaken ; this disperses all loose dust, and avoids the possibility of it being brushed into the material. One more hint with regard to mourning. It is always well when making mourning dresses not to err on the side of too much ornamentation, as it is a great trouble to keep clean, and soon wears a shabby appearance.— "Queen Bee/' in Australasian.