LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXIV, Issue 10413, 10 April 1897, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

LONDON FASHION NOTES. [WRITTEN SPECIALLY FOR THE XEW ZEALAND BEKALD ] London, February 26. Coloured straws are again to the fore, and bright shades of green, purple, and pint are the predominant hues for headgear. These shades are used either alone, or in combination with something else, for while many of the season's huts are eelf-coloured there are equally mauy which are not. Shapes and sizes, too, are infinitely varied ; but all agree in that the crowns are very high, or else moderately so. Some are extremely narrow and taper off to a sharp point, there being no fit at all in the head of a hat of this class. It is now some months since I said that blocks were being prepared for this particular shaped hat. Occasionally the beefeater effect is produced at the top of a high crown; that is to say, there is a ledge, as it were, of fancy straw projecting beyond the crown itself. Many of the straw shapes are really so elaborate in themselves that comparatively littlo trimming is necessary, Some of tbe hats of the most glaring shades are to a certain extent being toned doiju by having their crowns veiled with black net, which is spangled with gold or diamond jewels. Trimmings so far, as a rule, consist largely, and in many instances solely, of flowers. Lace and ribbons are also plentifully used. It is really becoming more and more difficult each season todiscern between artificial and real flowers. There are many varieties being used at the present time, among them being roses, primulas, lilac, torget-ino nots, and violets. There is a growing tendency in favour of hats—especially the largest shapes—being turned up at tho back and having strings. As this is a very becoming style to many faces it is likely to be much in vogue. For these strings, velvet or glace silk ribbons, either black or coloured, are used. Soniotimes tlie ribbon i 3 of two colours, the second colour usually taking tho form of an edging. For millinery purposes kilted chiffon is to be a good deal employed, and some of this material is cross-kiltod. Thero ia also a new kind of chiffon, which in appearance largely resembles a soit of canvas. It has a good deal more eubataiice and is more glossy than chiffon has hitherto been, and is therefore said to be more durable. Many of the bonnets still have the tiniest of foundations. They are ofton fushionod like a series of leaves or small rosettes. Indeed, one of the many novelties of the year is to be tho rosette bonnot, 60 I am told. There i 3 really not much to be seen yefc in the dress material line. Tweeds at present rank foremost, and many of them aro very neat in design, for the tailor-made stylo or coat and skirt costumes of plain cloth, serge, or tweed are principally worn durinj; an English spring. And also much attention has been concentrated on Drawing-room dresses— the first Drawing-room of tho season being hold this week—and naturally silks, brocades, velvets, and euch like materials have been tho most prominent of all. A few materials of a canvas-like texture—both ailk and woollen—are shown over colours. But neither muslins or regular summer materials aro yet on view, though doubtless before longl will beenabled to semi you some hints as to what novelties in this particular branch have been produced for the coining season, FOR THE NEWLY WED. I asked a clever, well-known man, who ia a keen observer of human nature, what advice he would give the newly married, so that they might securo a harmonious life together". "I would tell the woman," he paid, " never to let her husband think ho had quite won her, that there was nob still something held in reservo to give him. A woman nover seems to think she ought to be fascinating to her husband after marriage" He lectured tho woman, of course. There is a universal tendency in mankind to do this. Vet a lady aa observant as he onca said in my hearing that sho beliovod from all she had seen that the happiness of marriage depended primarily upon the man. Were he worth anything, the peace of the household was assured. Advice to the newly married, then, should be addressed to both. There is much that might be said. First of all, that neither should take the devotion of tbe other for grantod, making no effort to cultivate or retain what each felt to be a due. There is nothing one should kill quickor in marriage than the first tendency in either one to discuss the peculiarities of the other before a third person. Nothing is more fatal, and nothing is more vulgar. No one can ever take a greater liberty with tho other. These petsonalities are never funny, though they are often made to do service aa family jokes brought out tor the entertainmonb of the stranger. Nagging and teasing secrets should be strictly prohibited ; mutual concessions should be allowed; every disappointment in the other bo regarded aa an opportunity for helping that other, and not as an excuse tor alienation; and the one who had a trouble should share it with the other, so that neither should go about with evidonces of worry, while declaring that nothing is the matter. " Oh, nothing I" in answer to a loving inquiry from husband or wife sensitive to disturbed conditions is often the first wedge which ultimately drives both apart. A LOVER'S LATEST GIFT. A really new and appropriate engagement gift, very much in vogue, ia a love-letter penholder and pen. The young man interested presents one to his betrothed, and usually he refuses all ready-made examples and orders one made on a design drawn exclusively for his fianefo. At first white pearl and ivory were considered the appropriate materials for these dainties, meant only to be used for the special purpose of inditing love-letters. Now, however, tho young man, who is usually too infatuated to count the cost, orders his true love's pen all of uotd, wreathed round with her initials in her favourite stones, or the gold shaft! topped by a bit of a coronet. Sometimes all round the handle twists a proverb of love; or tbe pen is dotted with dates, worked out in brilliants, signifying the day on which the pair met, when they wero betrothed, and the day fixed for the wedding. Of course, the point is of gold; and the pen fits into a luxurious white satin box, and is supposed in tho future to be consecrated to letters written to a happy husband. THE LANGUAGE OP LOVE. The language of love is peculiar to itself. In the first place, it is nob so much vocal as optical; in the second place, it is not understandable by the outside public. Only a lover can interpret it; there ie no text-book extant on the subject—-Cupid as yet) nob having turned one of his feathers into a quill. And, even if such a book were written, to the non-lover ib would be unintelligible gibberish, failing the key. For the key is love itself; and love only can translate the difficult passages of his own language. Such, for instance , , as those which occur between two pairs of eyes, oi between two pairs of lips. He comprehends also the meaning of tender glances, shy blushes, exquisite silences, and loving monosyllables. The chief beauty and charm of the language of love lie in its very simplicity, for, needless to say, with the exception of the aforesaid monosyllables, words form but a small part of its component elements. It is this fact, I suppose, which makes ib such an easy tongue to learn, and causes its students to bo so numerous. THE DANCE THAT IS DANCED. Everyone is. talking aboub or dancing or whistling the tune of "The Washington Post," which is particularly popular round and aboub Liverpool. I always notice that American notions, such as surprise parties, coloured dinners, and so on, thrive in this go-ahead district, and am nob surprised to hear that tbe latest dance is the rage there. Something very jolly as well as distinctive there is about the Washington. Ib u a kind of Highland schottische, for the men stand face to face with their partners, and the arms are made to perform a good part of tho originality of the dance. Dances that go like ibis always have (omething about them that is inspiriting and jolly. Such was the barn dance. The Washington is learned in a moment, bub the girl who means to be up-to-date should be able U take her place with her partner without waiting to look on a bib before swaying the Tory latest ireak in Terpriehoreau art.