LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXIV, Issue 10407, 3 April 1897, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

HOW TO DRESS ATTRACTIVELY.

WHAT A COURT DRESSMAKER

SAYS. "Abe there really any rules that may be laid down for the guidance of women on the important matter of dress ? Or may anyone wear anything ?" " Indeed, there are rules, and foolish is she who runs in the face of them," was the reply of Mrs. C, the Court dressmaker, to whom this question was put. "The lady who is inclined to be stoub should not wear very brilliant colours, and should refuse materials with spots, and also Chose upon which lines ruu round. Lines running up and down give height and slimness if properly cut; but the patternless material is the wisest choice, and colours such as navy-blue, myrtle-green, plum, and smoke-grey aro safe. Black is almost universally becoming to stout ladies, but not in satin. I would engage to clothe two customers of precisely the same size, the one to look almost half that of the other, if I were allowed to choose wisely for the one and foolishly for (he other. Satin makes a person look much bigger thau she really is, and white and cream satitis are worse than anything else in this particular. " Thin girU hare really a happier time than plump ones, for it is much more easy to make i\ thin woman look fat than a fat one look thin, The fashionable colour of tnia winter season, for example, a willowy customer may not only admire, but wear; wjiereas, however much my ' well-covered' ladies like it, 1 cannot permit them to order it. It ia bright red. But you would be surprised how many fallacies are abroad concerning colours. " Have you never heard that yellow is a brunette's colour? I'es. That ia an old story, and an utterly absurd one. A pale amber usually suits a lair-complexioued, light-haired girl better tlnn any other. It wakes her look a veritable picture. For evening wear I turn out many queer colours for boch blondes and brunettes. For instance, I study the oyes of my clients, and decide what they should wear from them. A girl with those changeable hazal orbs that are so lovely—now brown, now a curious metallic green—l garb with iridescent, serpentine motifs. But that, perhaps, U too teclinical for you. Tall your reader*, however, to study their eyes and their complexions more than any other point, and say that the clearer their complexions are, the more brilliant may be the colours they can best wear. That is the modern version of another exploded idea. It was always held that a delicate, colourless face wanted brightening up, ;ind one upon which Nature had bestowed brilliancy ' toning down.' That is all wrong. Take your cue from Nature, and you will do well. " The Princess of Wales and the Duchess of Cleveland have proved that white is not exclusively tho charming possession of infants and young debutantes. Her Grace is quite an old lady now; yet she puts on white, and looks her daintiest and best in it many n time. The beautiful Princess, too, who is called the youngest-looking grandmother in Europe, ofteu wears a white gown, and is vastly becoming in it. There was a period in the history of dress when hats were tabjootl after four-aud-twenty. Age has absolutely nothing to do with the matter now, That which suits a woman she may wear irrespective of years. " You know the Queen wears a hat much oftener than ti bonnet, and very bonny does she look in it! Princess Henry of Battenberg is only seen in the regulation widow's bonnet on very formal occasions. Her usual headgear is a black hat with a long widow's veil hanging from it. " \ou are awure, of course, that colours should invariably bo chosen in a proper light, and this is most imperative when two or mote are to be blended. A surprising difference ia caused by gas—oftentimes one that is ludicrous. Purple, for example, will look brown, and yellow pink. I saw you notice the array of lights I havo in this room. It is my evening dress apartment, and my customers choose, by electric, gas, or candle light, according to their needs, the colours they are to wear."

ATTRACTIVE WOMEN.

It is the woman thai has the courage to be herself who attracts. Originals are bo much mure desirable than copies, no matter how accurate the copy may be. Lot every woman dare to bo herself; develop her own individuality, nob blindly copy some other woman whom, it may be, her husband happens to admire. Let her think for herself, act for herself, and express her own honest opinions. Individuality, when combined with that nameless something called manner, is the most potent weapon in the possession of the sex.

A good woman's laugh is better than medicine. A well-told awry is as welcome as a sunbeam in u sickroom. Learn to keep your own troubles to yourself. The world is too busy to care for your ills and sorrows. Don't continually cry. Tears do well enough in novels, bull they are not desirable in real life.

A WORD OF WISDOM. Peoplo talk about flattering girls too much. I do nob believe it can bo dono. When the shy, awkward girl of fifteen stands before you, try to make her less ihy and less awkward by letting her understand how beautiful you think her hair is, and that you, as well ae other people, appreciate its loveliness. In almost all families there is a great yielding to the temptation to tell the truth, uvea when it is sure to be unpleasant, The eldest brother sees no harm in chatting , the younger sister about her big mouth. The eldest sister laughs at her awkward walk, and another brother does nob hesitate to speak, even before strangers, of what he culls her temper,

Mothers are, in many cases, to blame for all this. They nevor stop to think of the effect that all the silly talk will have upon the heart and soul of the child who is under discussion. Suppose you have an awkward fjirl in your own brood? What are you going to do about her? She may be any age under seventeen, and you look at her with despair. If you are foolish, as too often you are, you wonder in her presence how such an ugly girl can possibly belong to you. Now, my friend, if your daughter had been born with a deformity you would have had it treated by the very best physicians, and a specialist) would have been consulted. Then why should not the besb of treatment be given to the imperfections of which you complain ? .Make a study of your child, and ib will come to pass thab under your fostering care she will do you credit, aftor all.

EABY'S CRY OF HEALTH. That habiea ought to cry occasionally is » fact well known to doctors, but one which seems to be very much against the creed of mothers and nurse*. The model babies who never cry are unnatural specimens. Crying is the only exercise a young baby gets; it expands the lungs, causes a better circulation oi the blood, and helps on muscular growth. Of course, fretting U to be promptly attended to; and screaming must not be allowed ; bub a really healthy little cry, when nothing particular is the mutter —save that baby needs that mode of expression for hie pent-up feelings—ia not a thing to make everybody try to divert the little one's attention or stop him. The idea may bo a novel one, but there is something to be said in favour of little babies being allowed a email crying spell—thab is, an exercise spell—purely upon thu ground of health.

THE IDEAL HUSBAND.

An ideal husband is first of all a thorough Christian. Ho is truthful, affectionate, and ambitious, one who is thoughtful of these around him, and a lover of home, music, and children. A man who is not given to boasting of conceit, he is generous, amiable, ready to lend a helping hand in the kitchen, garden, or sick-room, and is a thorough gentleman. Prudent and industrious; leaving good impressions wherever he goes. An ideal husband must b« brave, true, generous, loving, sensible, gentle, kind, clever, well-educated, one in whom the most implicit confidence can be placed. He mutt have always loved his mother; he must love his mother-in-law for his wife's sake; be,one whom his wife can look up to and feel proud of; he must be good to hit own children, and if be goes to his club he I always at home at a reasonable tine.