A TRIP TO THE SOUTH SEAS.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXIII, Issue 10037, 25 January 1896, Page 1 (Supplement)

A TRIP TO THE SOUTH SEAS.

BY AN AUCKLANDER.] NO. 111. VAILIMA. In addition to the ordinary sights, Vailima stands in the forefront as a place of interest, and few visitors to Samoa care to leave the island without seeing something of the spot made famous as the residence of the late Robert Louis Stevenson. It is situated upon the hills, and makes a very pleasant drive out from the town of Apia. The villa is without doubt the most superior residence in the group, the deceased novelist having spared nothing in its erection. The approaches aro all the result of native labour, and done as a work of love by chiefs only. In fact, just at the gateway stands a huge cross setting this forth, together with the names of those who executed this mark of respect and reverence to tho great " Tusi Tala" (writer qf tales). The dwelling is at present in the occupation of the Chatfield family, who are most courteous to visitors, and take pleasure in showing thorn through the house and grounds. Vailima also boasts of a splendid ballroom which wins the admiration of all tourists, whilst great interest is evinced in Stevenson's own particular sanctum sanctorum, over the threshold of which no one is permitted to cross. For here lie manuscripts and private documents of great value, simply confided tofehecareof thecustodiansuntil such tiineas the Stevenson family—at present in Honolulu—return. With an inspection of the house most people are satisfied ; but, after resting a while, I set out to visit the grave —an undertaking of some magnitude, as it meant the ascent of the steep mountain adjacent to the residence, I had not climbed far before I commenced speculating how the funeral party ever reachod the top, for tho sides of the mountain are almost precipitous, and it is only by following a zigzag track that progress at all can be made. However, after a very fatiguing climb tho ascent was accomplished, and revealed to view a clearing of some 30 feet right 011 the crest of the mountain. In the centre of this space was a nicelymounted grave without fencing or headstone,, and a more desolate looking spot it would be hard to find. I had read in some of tho English papers of the beautiful view to be obtained and the picturesqueness of the surroundings, but great was my disappointment. The dense growth of the bush shuts out any view seaward, but through tho trees one can catch a glimpse of the house and valley below. With this exception there is no view whatever, and tho wrotched state of the partly-obliterated track shows that few care to fatigue themselves for so profitless a journey. TUB 9AMOAN GOVERNMENT. In the afternoon I called on Seumanatafa, the chief who played such a prominent part in the troublo with the Germans,and who at a later period acted so heroically in saving life during the great Samoan hurricane. The old fellow speaks very good English, and made many inquiries about Now Zealand. He particularly sought after information about the proposed annexation of the group by this colony, and reminded me that ho onco visited Wellington to urge this course upon the Government. He thought highly of Auckland and Welling, ton, and, after thinking a while, he remembored the Wairarapa district. Soumanu, as he is generally styled, only voices the opinion of tho natives in general in wishing annexation by " Peletania," for all aro heartily sick of the present abortion known as a Government. He was of opinion the natives would even welcome American rule, but spoke most warmly in opposition of German annexation. KAVA. Whilst hero I was again initiated into the mysteries of kava-making and drinking, which appears to be a universal institution throughout the islands. The smallest social gathering or the grandest palaver of natives makes no difference, for the kava bowl is equally indispensable. Kava (the root of the Piper mothysticum) resombles the dried root of any ordinary tree. When the guests are assembled the root is pounded or scraped into a fine powder, when it is handed over to a young and pretty daughter of the village. Formerly the Custom used to be to reduce tho root by mastication, but tho practice has been discontinued, though many maintain tho quality of the beverage suffers in consequence. However, during my sojourn in Samoa I tried both systems, but, of course, could detect no difference. The maiden who presides at the kava bowl strains the pounded root with a bunch of fibre prepared from the bark of the yellow hibiscus. During this process another girl pours water from a coconnut vessel over the mass, which is thoroughly worked until tho wholo of the root has been extracted. The completion of this is signified by the clapping of hands from all present. The liquid is then handed round, the master of ceremonies announcing each guest in order of precedence. The drink is wholesome and refreshing, but takes an acquired taste to appreciate, although everyone will admit it to possess a singular virtue in allaying thirst. The drink is generally handed round by a maiden, who makes a most graceful bow in presenting tho offering, It is a grave solecism to merely sip the kava, and, if the guest really wishes to please his host, the cup should be drained at a draught. One of the most difficult curios to obtain is a really good kavabowl, for those which have been in- use some time the natives nro loth to part with. The frequent brewings coat the inside of tho bowl with a beautiful enamel, and the better this is marked the moro valuable the bowl.

TUB CURRENCY. One of the most striking things about Samoa is the absence of ready money, most of the trade being carried on by means of the I 0 U system. If a person makes the smallest purchase in a hotel, the bar tender pushes a printed slip towards him, and the customer acknowledges his indebtedness by subscribing his name. Thase I 0 U's are put in the till for tho end of tho month, when they are expected to bo redeemed. In general conversation about monetary matters one rarely hears anything but dollars spoken of, although English money is gladly accepted in payment. Tho legal currency is American, bub during the whole of my-stay I can safely say I never saw an American or German coin in circulation. This is the more surprising as tho Germans make 80 much display of their grip on the group. Then again they ignore the Governmanb Posb Office, presided over by an Englishman namod Davis, and run an Imperial German Post Offico with thoir own staff of clerks, Despite this, the former does nearly the whole of the business, and was established under special permission from King Maliotoa. All the American ftnd colonial correspondence passes through this channel unless specially directed otherwise, The philatelic craze has oven extended to these islands, for whenever a steamer puts in tho passengers purchase sheots of stamps to add to their collection.

RELIGION. The natives are very religious, bub somewhat; prono to wrestle with the truth ob times, or as one of my Island friends aptly pub it, "They are too polite to bell the truth." The chief bodies in Samoa are the Loudon Missionary Socioty and the Roman Catholics, both of which have excollenb schools and colleges. The former have a school for boys in Apia, a college for students at) Malua, and a normal school ab Le Ulumoega. They have a splendid school for girls ao Papauta, and which is attended by Faaino, the King's daughtor. The foreign church in Apia also belongs to this body, and is well attended both morning and evening. Simday-schoola also flourish. The Maris); Brothers have established a common school and an excellent college for boys, and besides these there' is a convent school ably looked after by nuns of European and Saraoan nationality. The Catholic chapel is one of * the mosb conspicuous buildings on "The Beach," and attracts much interest from through passengers. lb is nearly the size of Sb, Patrick's in Auckland, and is'built of cement—altogether a most imposing edifice for so small a place. The Wesleyans are also represented by establishments at Apia and Matautu in Sftvcuv Id addition to theap, tho Mormon

Elders have started a campaign, making their headquarters some distance down the coast ab a place called Fangalii. Religion in Samoa has obtained a firm foothold, and the natives prove most devout worshippers, no one questioning their sincerity.

SHAVING CHILDREN'S HEADS. A curious custom largely prevails of shaving the heads of children, all but a top knot of hair, which presents a unique appearance on tho shaven crowns. This is due to a general superstition that if tho child died the angel could seize this top knot and carry the infant off to heaven. The notion seems most ludicrous to Europeans, and occasions luimorous enquiries. Tho woraon seem very affectionate to their own children, and aro ready at all times to adopt more. One more or less makes no difference to an Island household, where everything seems like a commonwealth and the question of providing clothes is so easily surmounted by the dispensation of nature. [To be continued.]