LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXII, Issue 9711, 5 January 1895, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

> GOWNS FOR DAY WEAR. In describing some new styles in gowns for day wear, the .Ladies' Gazette of Fashion states that the skirts for outdoor costumes are still made plain, those for dressy indoor wear are elaborately trimmed. The change in the indoor skirts is that the backs are fluted and lined with stiff canvas to stand out ; they fit closely over the hips. In Pans the skirts are being cut round and full, and arranged to stand out in deep folds at the back and sides. Another novel skirt has full sides, and is closely gathered over the hips ; the front is gored and the back is box-pleated. A novel feature in many of the new bodices is that the fulness in front overhangs the waist. A trimming is introduced by perpendicular, bands of jet or ribbon, which fall from the waist to the skirt, and the fulness ol the bodico may be outlined at the side by shaped bands of velvet edged with jet. A pretty coloured silk bodice is cut at the neck in style like the oldfashioned spenser, with a narrow opening from neck to bust, and filled in with » collar and chemisette of white silk. The blouse lianas over tho waistband of the skirt, and is worn with a dark-coloured coat and skirt. Quite the latest style from Paris is seen in the bodice fastening at one side with vest) of ermine, and over this a bolero with embroidered re vers. A coat and skirt of mignonette green cloth lias a vest of ermine fitting tightly on a silk lining, and this is arranged in the new way to overhang the belt in front. All varieties of bodices are worn, some with revers, some with frills ; others with square yokes or tight-fitting waistcoats. The waists are usually short, the skirts fastening 4 over the bodice just) below tho waist. Basques, when worn, are fastened to tho skirt rather than tho bodice; the trimming is often arranged to simulate a basque, the hips being trimmed round with jetted galon or fringe. A short, doublebreasted coat, is new., resembling an Eton coat, and worn with a double-breasted waistcoat. The bodice with basque at the back only is lined, a strapped belt coming from the side and fastening in front. A smart gown of crimson-faced cloth with insertion bands of black silk, has the bodico forming a long coab at. the back, and zouave in front, motifs of jet and garnet in the place of buttons. In most cases where there is a basque, it is headed by a waistband or sash. The backs of many of the tailor-made gowns are cut with a point coming far down, into which the pleats of the basque are set, thus giving length to the figure. Sleeves are still worn very large,"the balloon shape being a favourite, draped with bows of ribbon. A new cloth gown has the sleeves accordeon-pleated, the fulness caught up with a rosette on the outside of the' arm ; from there to the wrist were perpendicular gatherings giving a rulllod appearance. •

NOTES ABOUT LAMPS. When purchasing the lamp consider one thing well, and that is that the lamp bowl is a good size. This saves much labour and worry, as the lamp burning low after bwo or three hours is nob desirable. Many of the prettiest of lamps have been made with small tanks. ' Lamp wicks should have the charred parb rubbed off with a rag kept for that purpose. They should seldom be trimmed, and not be used so long that the webbing becomes tight and non-porous. The lamp chimney should bo washed in warm, soapy water each day, a mop made especially for such work being used. When dried ib should be polished with soft newspapers or chamois. Lamps should be kept well filled with oil. It is bad for the wick and burner when the oil is low in the tank. It should be filled each day after the night's service. About once a month the lamp should receive a thorough cleaning, the wick be removed, and the burners unscrewed and boiled in a little water in which common washing soda has been dissolved. This will remove the almost imperceptible coating of dust and grease always so ready to form on the brass. With this care of tho lamp you will derive enough comfort from the bright, steady light to reward you for the extra labour. In buying the lamp-shade select one with the colour most becoming®) the tone of the room and your own or tho brunette, who is a great deal ab the worktable reading or sewing, a pretty shade of yellow will enhance her charms, and for the blonde or brown-haired woman, old rose is always becoming. lied is always a cosy light, ami often makes a plain room attractive. Old rose, terra cotta, and others .of tlffe soft colours are selected for the lamps about the room not in general use.

The -pointed parasol is she most graceful and the easiest made at home. In the soft silks ib is effective with a ruffle of heavy lace, and sometimes this ruffle has a heading of moss trimming or feather*. The adornments render the lamp very pretty, and when the clever housewife considers how much she can do with her needle, a number of lamp-shades are usually made by her at a small expense compared with the large amounts these shades bring in the shops. The decorating of lamp-shades with humming birds, suspended baskets of artificial flowers, or other devices, is pa,i-ie, and these gaudy lamps are never seen in the correct parlour or library. Some of the handsomest of the lampshades are made of heavy crepes, embroidered artistically, and little trimming is used on these shades, as the material is allsufficient. One of the prettiest I have seen was of pure white crepe, embroidered in small holly flowers, and the heavy ruffle of the lace the only trimming, but the effect of the light through the red-dotted white crepe was very pretty and becoming a light to the general tone of things. The shape of the library lamp should be dome-like, to screen the eyes and diffuse the light. One of the newest shades for reading purposes is square, covered with an arched dome. The wire frame is easily covered with silk, the lower edge finished with a fringe, the upper with a ruche. It is one of the simplest shades for amateurs to attempt, and is especially pretty of red silk and black lace, when used with a wrought-iron stand containing a deep red bowl.

Paper - crepon and all the Japanese materials are the successful materials for a lamp-shade. Such good effects can be obtained from the wrinkled paper and with so little effort ! This crepon-paper is inexpensive, and comas in all shades. You can make it over the wire frame, and secure it round the top of the frame with a large satin ribbon and bow.

FOR HOME DRESSMAKERS. The amateur dressmaker is apt to regard the full, large sleeves us necessitating less care in the putting-in process; bub this is a fatal mistake, and rains an otherwise well-made bodice. . It is quite true that the armhole may be slightly larger where the sleeve is so voluminous, but on a small or narrow figure it is even better to have the armhole too small, as, if much sloped, the bodice is, made to look much smaller and narrower, and the big, full sleeve has an almost grotesque effect. In sloping the armhole let ib clear the arm all around, and be so curved in front that when the arm is brought forward it is not straining against the armhole, nor does it impede, the circulation, and thereby make the hands look red and swollen. Where the underarm seam fits into the bodice there should be quite a " scoop" in the bodice, to clear the arm and allow ib to move forward, and underneath the arm the bodice should be almost straight and about three-quarters of an inch below the armpit. The back is almost straight and close up to the arm, and it should not be forgotten that if the back is sloped out and made quite narrow, the sleeve must drag and prove - uncomfortable, as ib practically has to do duty for a part of the bodice. A very much sloped and boo narrow back also looks even less against the wide sleeves, and makes the waist appear unduly large. Keep the back as broad as possible, even on a large figure, as big sleeves will greatly lessen the apparent width. -

Lawyer: "Excuse me, air, bub if you allow your will to remain this way, ib will surely be contested by your wife after you are gone." Rich Old Gentleman : Well, she's contested my will' ever since she married me 40 years ago, and it will be no new experience bo bee; lob ib go aa it i- 8, • *■ '