LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXIX, Issue 8812, 27 February 1892, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

' FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON. Emerald-green and turquoise-blue aro favourite colours in hats and bonnets. Every tone of red, from brilliant military scarlet to the deep claret and burgundy tones, is seen usually in velvet surrounded by the sparkle of jet or contrasted with the glitter of the " jewelled" diamonds which are in so much vogue for headgear tins season. The colour, whatever it may be, is usually limited to the crown. With regard to shape, the fashionable hat may be almost anything, from the small toque to the broad-leaved " picture" hat which so eminently suits the young and fresh and beautiful. Black satin hats are the novelty of the moment, and are likely to become great favourites. There is quite a revolution in the cut of ball gowns. The skirts remain severely plain, but the bodices can be arranged in the most ornate fashion. They are no longer very long ; on the contrary, it is difficult to tell where they end, the junction of skirt and bodice is so hidden by trimmings ; but these are generally of a flat nature. The waist frills are things of the past, though sleeves aro still made to look high. Our old friend tulle, however, is not likely to be entirely banished, and nothing is so girlish and ball-like. _ ( A new material seen at Mr. J. Fenwick s establishment in New Bond-street (writes " Gadabout" in the Queen) is in the form of satin beaver. A lovely gown had been made entirely of this in water-green, the new light tint. The bodice was pointed, the sleeves gathered on the shoulder, a cross-cut flounce at the hem. Pcau dt soie in black, veiled with black net, embroidered all over with bouquets in gold thread, had a garland of natural roses in dark velvet, crimson and pink, at the edge of the skirt. The sleeves and the principal part of the bodice were of velvet of the same tone as a deep damask rose. Chenille fringes and chenille embroideries are employed on black brocade with a most liberal hand, and} a ball gown is no longer a gossamer robe, capable at the most of three nights' wear, but a strong, serviceable garment, which in many cases is equally suitable for dinner parties. 0 Companion cloaks are three-quarter length, others reached to the feet, and are made of the handsomest brocades, trimmed, and sometimes lined, with Thibet goat, or coque feathers, or massive gold embroidery. A favourite shape is a jacket, with winged pieces over the arms, which convert it into a mantle ; but for wearing with ball gowns it is better to have a looser shape, falling in voluminous folds. Silk scarfs are coming into vogue again. I suppose they will replace the feather ruffs that have been fashionable for so long. Some are of delicate-coloured surah, others are of dark blue silk with white bird's-eye spots. They are of great width, and are tied in an immense bow under the chin. Of course, they should match exactly the coloured trimming on the wearer's hat or bonnet. I think them anything but pretty. Young girls' evening gowns are mostly a variation on or Watteau styles. They aro all made with extremely short waists, and have in nearly every instance a sort of corselet of ribbon tied in a bow in tho middle or back, with fluttering ends that reach to the bottom of tho skirt. Lewis and Allenby's have some wonderful gowns. If I had "to live in their show-rooms a week I should certainly die of envy. One bewitching dress I saw was myosotis brocade trimmed with a lot of gossamer stuff, and a ribbon corselet, such as I have described. It had gossamer sleeves, too, reaching to the elbow. Imagine, if you can —I couldn't describe it, so it's no use trying—a white watered silk dress with narrow pink stripes, with a bodice composed of tilmy white folds at the top, a folded band of the silk edged with marten fur, and a pink ribbon corselet. Another gown of pink satin had the seams outlined with narrow brown fur—sabletail, I think. There is vast variety in the shape of sleeves. Those who have beautiful arms keep to the short puffed sleeves and the handkerchief shape. There are all sorts of draped and slashed sleeves. Rippled sleeves reaching quite to the wrist aro the best kind for thin anus. Quite the newest hat of the season is that with a square crown. It is made in felt surrounded by a band of velvet, which is fastened with a large buckle. A plume of feathers adorns the back, and to soften what might otherwise bo a hard and severe style, a novel idea is introduced of trimming the edge of the brim with white lace. In this case a white lace, or embroidered net veil accompanies the hat. By-the-bye, it is whispered that long lace veils, the kind worn fifty years ago, are coming into fashion. The" square crowned hat is also seen in velvet ; it is pleated into the brim at intervals, and a bright-coloured crown may be used, if preferred, on a black hat, the only other adornment being three tips at the side. The edge of the brim is sometimes finished off by means of a silp cord. This style of hat is most becoming, and is capable of being turned into an immense variety of shapes, and made to suit all faces. The new sailor hat, with its low crown and turned-up brim, appears to be a general favourite, and no wonder, for with its coloured band of velvet and bow at the side, through which quills are passed, it looks really smart and stylish. The latest fashion for bodices has taken yet another turn, and is seen in the Russian blouse. It is a copy of the tunic buttoned down one side, and encircled at the waist by a belt such as is worn in Russia by the coachmen. It has a short loose upper sleeve, with long, close-fitting undersleeves. As a rule the blouse is made separately from the other part of the dress and is unlined. Serge or cloth with velvet yoke and under-sleeves made a useful house and visiting gown. The bodice lining with velvet yoke and sleeves is attached to the skirt, and the blouse, which may open down the front or fasten on tho left side, is easily slipped on. It is cut in two parts, with seams on the shoulders and under the arms, and the seams are rather much at tho waist, in vent too great a thickness. /'The skirt part reaches nearly half-way down the underskirt, the edge of which may have a band of velvet to match the yoke and sleeves on a tiny edging of fur. The top part of the blouse is rounded, and the edge of it is also trimmed with the fur, and the edge of the short upper sleevo is finished off in the same fashion. A band, either pointed or straight, may be worn round the waist. Feathers are the order of the day, and some space is devoted to describing novelties of the kind ip the Season: —"Mob only expensive ostrich plumes, but shining groen cocks' feathers, and the more modest plumage of many a barn door fowleach and all aro combined in tho making-up of the indispensable boa, which is now made in so many ways and styles as to bo attainable at all prices. The very newest thing in this line is the small ruche of feathers, tacked inside the high stand-up collar, and, as ib were, framing the wearer's chin and cheeks; in this respect it is even moro becoming to a well-formed neck than its predecessor, the lace frill. All sorts of feathers are used in the making of these little ruffs; the gold-hued peacock harmonises especially well with the sober grey of the ostrich, but shorter, broader, and commoner feathers are by no means excluded from the manufacture of this new caprice of

fashion. It is good news (writes " Miranda") to hear that nob only is it no longer considered necessary to dreys one's hair in a fashion suggestive of the wearer having been dragged backwards through furze bushes, but it is liowactually declared vulgar for one's coiffure to be in the least dishevelled. The " tousled" stylo has had what the schoolboys call a good " innings," and the return to a mode which can bo truly described as neat is most welcome. It is strange to think that we could ever have imagined that so untidy a style of hairdressing was attractive, but, as I am alwayi saying, we are abject slaves to fashion, and though we have now been brought by her to " tire" our heads, for the time being, in a reasonable and sensible manner, we shall bo as ready in a few months to shave them or load them with chignons, or adorn them with long ringlets, if sho so wills. Lot us, however, be thankful for her present roasonablo demands. Upon the other side of the Atlantic a corset manufacturer means to give the trade i a stimulus. He has contracted with five

young women, divinely tall, etc., who aro to travel 10,000 miles dressed in the very latest fashion. They aro to travel in luxurious style, and to stay at the best hotels in all tho leading towns. Bub the practical part of the scheme is that the agent of the manufacturer travels with them, and delivers lectures to ladies, proving medically that good corsets are conducive to good health.