THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXVII, Issue 8264, 24 May 1890, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

All transplanting operations may now bo carried on successfully. Tho weather is most favourable for such work, the atmosphere being very moist and warm. Shrubs and other plants of moderate size may now be removed from one place and transferred to another without scarcely feeling the lifting, provided they have been properly prepared by trenching as previously recommended. This operation has the effect of checking the sending out of young growth by cutting the larger roots. The flow of sap into the top of the plant is somewhat retarded, and descending induces young fibrous root action, a most essential factor in the safe removal of evergreen trees and shrubs. The young rootlets hold the soil together which otherwise would fall away and leave the bare roots. In transplanting be careful to avoid placing the tree deeper in the ground that it originally stood. Many when dealing with plants that are large fall into the error of deep planting as a safeguard against their being blown about by the winds, little thinking of the injurious effect's such a system of planting will have to the ultimate welfare of the tree. Let the tree or plant be the same depth as it stood before its removal. Hold it in an upright position, working well pulverised surface soil in and around the roots; tread firmly, leaving the surface tilling light and loose ; finally, if in an exposed situation, securely stake to prevent the plant being shifted from its upright position by the winds. Trees planted early in the season (provided the weather be favourable and the plants in lit condition for removal) take root and become established before the harsh spring winds and dry weather sets in. Whilst treating upon the subject of transplanting I would earnestly direct the attention of all those who may be interested in this important operation to the indiscriminate system that is generally practiced in the arrangement and disposal of the different varieties that may be selected for planting, irrespective of tho ultimate height that they may attain, or the adaptability of this or that variety for the position allotted to it. And as for harmony, this is a subject .seldom thought about. The proper arrangement of the permanent trees and shrubs is a subject that requires a good deal of consideration and practical knowledge on the part of the planter. Even the most skilled are often considerably out in their calculations, as the different soils, situations, and climate produce a marked effect upon the growth of trees of the same variety. How often do wo see large trees of lofty growth placed immediately in front of the dwelling, obscuring the light from the windows, and others of similar growth a few feet from the walk or road ? All this might easily bo obviated by a little forethought at the time of planting, and prevent the loss of valuable specimens in the future, as, being altogether out of place, thoy will require to be cut down or removed. It is gratifying to note the discontinuance of the planting of pines in the city and suburbs. Tho stranger to Auckland cannot but be struck by tho endless rows of sombre-coloured pines that meet the eye in overy direction, with few trees of diverse foliage to enliven the landscape. What a contrast when viewing the few patches of Nature's bush, with its diversity of shades and lovely tints of colour. For what purpose these endless rows of pines have been planted is difficult to imagine certainly not for ornament, and in many instances practically not for shelter. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. Amateur : Re grapes not colouring. I conclude from your remarks, the cause of your grapes not colouring cannot be due to the treatment they have received in the house. If the whole of the grapes faaed to colour under tho treatment you gave them, there is evidently something wrong with the roots. The want of proper drainage is often the cause of badly-coloured berries. Vines planted in soils of a clayey nature, unless the border is thoroughly drained and prepared, rarely produce goodcoloured or flavoured fruit. The vines

will often make great growth in soils of this nature, the roots being few bat strong, bat very little fibre, the most essential thing to produce good grapes. I would advise you to thoroughly examine your border. Dig a wide trench the whole length of the border, keeping about four feet from the stems of the vines, cutting off all roots outside of that space. The trench should be dug the depth of the border, and the bottom filled with rough stones or scoria to within two feet of the surface. Then fill up with a mixture of sandy loam, burnt garden refuse, and half-inch bones. Young fibrous roots will soon start into vigorous growth and take possession of the new compost prepared for them. Next autumn another wide trench should be dug in the same manner, until the border is renewed, in all cases giving good drainage. By renewing your border in this manner, I feel certain you will be enabled to produce well-coloured and well-finished grapes. A.C.S. (Drury); In my opinion kauri gum lands such as you mention—for instance, portions of the Avondale district— are well adapted for fruit culture; and, with good care and cultivation, would be preferable to light dry volcanic soils for fruit trees. From casual observations of fruit-growing upon what are termed kauri gum soils, I have noticed trees, more particularly apples and pears, thriving and cropping remarkably well; and should say trees upon such soils would be more lasting and crop more regularly than those upon volcanic lands, and be less subject to blights. In my opinion much of the lands of this class around Auckland is fit for little else but for fruit culture; and profitable results would no doubt be obtained by judicious planting and careful cultivation. In reply to your last question, to bring land such as you mention into a high state of fertility would require many years' labour and outlay in producing suitable fertilisers. Kepos.