THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXVI, Issue 9452, 24 August 1889, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

OPERATIONS FOR THE WEEK ENDING AUGUST 31.

FI.GV.-EIl OARDEK. TriE garden and grounds are now gay with the many varieties of narcissus. These are amongst the most popular and hardy of spring ilowcring bulbs, and are easily cultivated, thriving in almost any soil and situation, with littlo or no care and attention, and, if allowed to remain, flourish for years in the sauio spot. The majority of the sorts may be made use of for many purposes, being equally adapted for planting near the edges of shady walks overhung by trees and shrubs, or for planting in the open or on the sides of banks amongst grass and shrubs, and are most suitable subjects for near water. The flowers retain their colour and natural beauty best when planted where they are partially shaded from the sun. Like all other popular plants, enthusiastic growers have token this tribe in hand, and, by the proccss of hybridisation, are constantly adding new varieties to the list. Anemone coronaria is another favourite for early spring flowering, being hardy and of easy cultivation, and when grown in beds or clumps with a good distribution of colours, produces a very charming effect. Lachenalias, too, a comparatively speaking new species of dwarf bulbs, when grown with several in a clump together, form a really beautiful sight when in full bloom, with their many flower spikes rising about a foot from the ground, and furnished with showy flowers. If strong, each bulb produces one or more blossom spikes, and the flowering period lasts for a considerable time. These are amongst the most beautiful and easy cultivated of dwarf bulbs. Hyacinths, when well grown and arranged in beds or in masses, are most attractive. But there is considerable difficulty in producing a good effect. In the first place the bulbs are expensive and difficult to procure ; and, secondly, the slugs are most annoying in attacking the flower stems as soon as they appear above ground. Ranunculus will shortly present a very pleasing effect; these are really charming early-flowering plants. The general collection of gladiolus bulbs should now be planted in a bed in rows, or arranged in clumps here and there in the mixed borders or shrubberies. Insert the bulbs about three inches deep, and place a labol or stick to denote their whereabouts, to preserve them from being dug or hoed up. Liliuras are now up or breaking through the ground. These should be well mulched with short manuro, as they require rich feeding for the production of strong flowering spikes, The hardier varieties of annuals should now be sown, as there is nothing that adds to the floral display later on better than a well-selected assortment of annuals. Where facilities are at hand for raising, such varieties as asters, stocks, and dianthus should have been sown in pots or boxes to have plants in readiness for planting out now. Stocks and asters must bo put out early in order to ensure success. When sown late, stocks are liable to become a prey to aphides, and asters to caterpillars. Amongst suitable hardy annuals for present sowing are aeroclinums, rhodanthe, saponaria, nemophila, mignonette, sweet peas, antirrhinum, candytufh, calliopsis, collinsea, godetia, Clarkia, linum, supinus, scabiosa, campanula, linarias, larkspur, convolvus minor, and ealandrinia. The more tender must not be sown for a few weeks. Failure and disappointment are the result of too early sowings of the general collection of annuals. , GREENHOUSE. Tuberous-rooted begonias and gloxinias : There are few, if any, summer flowering plants equal to those for making a grand display of flow during the ">vhole summer months. The great advance made with these plants during tho last few years

is really surprising, more especially with the begonias. These have been brought to a high state of perfection. The numbers of varieties that have been raised, producing flower 3 of nearly all shades of colour, and the length of time they continue in bloom, makes them one of the most invaluable of all summer decorative plants — rich and brilliant colours making a grand display, and with very little care will continue to blossom until late into autumn. Bulbs that have been stored away during the winter should now be brought out ready for starting. One thing must be borne in mind, that bulbs of begonias must not be hurried, bub be allowed to take their own timo in starting. I find the best way to preserve bulbs during the period of rest is to store away on a dry shelf in the pots and soil in which they had been growing, and when the time comes round for the bulbs to start, I place the pots in the house and give sufficient water to properly moisten the soil and allow the bulbs to commence to make growth before potting. By this mode of treatment I rarely lose a single bulb. In potting, the soil should consist of a turfy loam, leaf mould, and well-decomposed manure of equal parts, and a small quantity of silver sand. The pots should be thoroughly drained, as thoy require plenty of water when growing freely ; and unless plenty of drainage is given, the [tots aro liable to. become waterlogged, when the plants would soon die. Begonias that have been raised from seed should be pricked out into pans as soon as the plants are large enough to handle ; and, as soon sis the plants have made a little growth, they should be potted, and kept growing on unchecked until they come into flower. Gloxinias : These are extremely showy flowering plants, producing flowers in' abundance during the early summer months. Some are now well advanced in growth, and require careful handling. Gloxinias, unlike many other plants, may be shifted when once started into vigorous growth into their floweringpots; for, if allowed to remain too long in small pots before shifting, the foliage is sure to get injured in re-potting. Gloxinias thrive best in a light open soil; a good compost for these is light fibrous loam-leaf soil, and thoroughly rotted manure in equal parts, and a portion of silver sand. They require a warm, moist atmosphere, and very careful watering until the pots becomes well established with roots. ANSWERS TO CO DENTS. "Amateur Grapo-grower" : In answer to your inquiry re vine, you can inarch at once, providing you have taken up a lateral of last season's growth on the De Lease pa vine convenient to the Hambro growing in pot. I have found them take quite as well inarched on one-year-old wood as on the young growth. One of the chief things is to have the stock and scion as near the same thickness as possible. Make a clean cut in the stock an inch or an inch and a-half in length, and a corresponding cut in the scion, being careful to have the cuts fit each other exactly. Avoid cutting deep, so as not to enter the pith ; tie the two firmly in position, and carefully cover the wound with grafting wax or clay until the union is complete. If you find they do not take on the old wood, you can inarch later on on the young growth, when the wood is sufficiently firm to allow being cut —about November or December, according to the growth of the vines. The union should be made as low down the old cane as can be conveniently done. Kei-os.