WANGANUI TO AUCKLAND VIA TAUPO.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXVI, Issue 9307, 9 March 1889, Page 1 (Supplement)

WANGANUI TO AUCKLAND VIA TAUPO.

A PEDESTRIAN TOUR. No. 11. [By Oswald Watkin.] TOKANU. Tokantj Is a small settlement consisting of an hotel, a store, and a few whares, both native and European. The hotel is conducted by Mr. J. Blake, who was at Taupo when wo arrived, in company with four tourists from Wanganui—viz., Messrs. Culpan, Notman, and Borlase (2). Wo stayed at the hotel that evening, and were awakened about five o'clock the next morning by the steamer's whistle, which announced the return of the contingent. At half-past six we' went along to tho baths and found the others there. The swimming baths, or puicw, as they are called, are five in number, the biggest one being lukewarm and about ten feet deep and fifteen feeo across. The others are a little warmer usually, but vary a great deal. For instance, one wo tried before breakfast was just hob enough to be pleasant, but after breakfast it .was almost boiling, being far boo hot to venture in. Tho baths are very pleasant for swimming, as one can get almost any heat he wishes; but I should think they would bo at their best on a cold winter's morning. After breakfast we interviewed the captain of the steam launch, and found out that ho intended to start across the lake at two o'clock, so we went to view the sights of Tokanu. The first two consisted of small geysers, which threw up a fairly large volume of water, bub to no groat height. There was a good deal of steam coming out, bub when wo lighted a small fire at the side such volumes came oub that we wore enveloped in it. I don't know what is the reason of bins, unless ib is that bho sbeam is there, bub the heat of the lire turns it into visible watery vapour. There are some other hot holes ab Tokanu, one of which is used for cooking by tho Maoris*. A swim of about an hour's duration followed, and also a feed of cherries, with which we were provided by some Maori lasses, and then we attempted to catch tho horses which Mr. Borlase had kindly lent us to ride to the Waihi Falls. After an hour's pleasant exercise trying to persuade them to go into a corner and wait while wo caught them, we desisted, and decided to lot the fall run without our patronage. At half-past one wo had luncheon, and bhen proceeded to the point of departure—about a mile from the hotel. The charges at the latter place are 2s all round, so we had to pay 8s each from seven o'clock till two bho next day, but I suppose the rate of freight ! necessitates this. CROSSES LAKE TAUI'O. At half-past two the little sbeam launch Hinomoa cast oil' her moorings, and glided down the creek towards the Lake. She is a pretty little model of live tons, and was built last summer by Mr. Bailey, of Auckland, and taken to Lichtield by brain, and thence to Taupo by waggons. She cau steam seven bo eight knots, and is owned 'and run by Captain Sproule, of Taupo, the fare being 10s single and 15s return, which is very reasonable, as the carriage of coal costs £7 a bon from Lichiicld. The disbance across bhe lake from Tokanu to Taupo is 25 miles, and we were four and a-half hours on the way. Soon after storting we had a very good view of the Waihi Falls, which are 90 feet in height, and as there is a good volume of water, and bush at each side, they look very pretty. Len. steered the boat half way over, and I did the rest of the way. About seven miles from Tokanu a big bay opens out, which is called bhe Western Bay. The wind blows oub of there with greab force, and there was a very big swell on the day we crossed, which caused tho boat bo pibch and boss considerably, and added zest to our enjoymenb. There is nob very much scenery round bho lake, oxcepb in the Western Bay, and wo were not near enough bo see ib distinctly. Viewed from near the centre of the lake, Tongariro, Kuapohu, and Ngauruhoo—the latter capped with its steamcloud, with the lake between us —formed a very pretty picture when tho sun set, casting tin orange tinge upon everything. There is one island in the lake, about 11 miles from Tokanu, near bhe eastern shore, which is called Moto Tuiko. Ib has boon used by bhe Maoris for a burying place, and is consequently iapu. The great chief To Hcu Hou, who died lately at Waihi, was buried there with great honours. On our arrival at Taupo at seven o'clock, Captain Sproule kindly provided us wibh sleeping accommodation ab bhe back of his office as wo were rather short of funds, and so couldn't go to the hotel. We could not have been in more comfortable quarters. Captain Sproule also allowed us the use of Ins books which were down there, so we must take this opportunity of showing our indebtedness bo him. We bought a 21b loaf of bread ab one of the stores that evening, and ib cost us a shilling. Taupo is larger than Tokanu, and contains a post and telegraph office, several stores and private houses, and two hotels, the Lake Hotel of Gallagher's being a very nice-look-ing building. There is another steamer on the lake, called the "Tauhara." She is 30 tons register and was built by Bailey at Taupo, bub has nob been running bins season. THE ONEKKNEJvE BATHS. On Sunday morning wo rested, and in bho afternoon visited the Onekoneke baths, about two miles from Taupo. On our way we passed bho Maori village called Tapuacharuru, which means " sounding footsteps," and ib is appropriately named as there is a very hollow sound thereabouts. These baths consist of three large pools, wibh a small terrace running up the gully, which is very pretty. The baths are supposed bo be the largest in New Zealand, and as they are a nice temperature, there is no doubt they will be largely patronised in bhe future Mr. Ross, the proprietor, is at present building a large hotel, and he informed us that a celebrated London doctor had bold him that tho " Iron water" at one place was tho best he had ever tasted. Gold fish abound in these warm baths, and will live when transferred to cold water, but are nob of much u.so from a culinary point of view, as they aro almost tasteloss. On our return we were invited up to Captain Sproule's placo to tea, and spent a very pleasant evening. The captain is an enthusiastic apiarian, and devotes most ot his spare time bo this pursuit. He has 11 hives on the Langstroth principle, and oxpeebs bo get 12001b of honey bins season. Wo had the pleasure of sampling .some of his honey, which was very fine, and wo hope ho may make ib profitable. THK UUKA FALLS. Monday, the last day of bhe year, broko fine, and ab nine o'clock we left the lake by tho River Waikabo in a boat of Mr. Sproule's, who also accompanied us as a guide for part of tlio way. Tho river is spanned by a bridge just above the lake, which is a uicelooking structure. The river is 70 yards wide, and GO feeb deep when ib leaves tho lake, but ib is so clear that bhe botboin can be seen wibh the utmost distinctness. After two miles easy pulling we landed, and started over the hills to view bho far-famed Huka Falls. On our arrival, we walked across the bridge which spans the river just above the falls, and immediately over the race, which is a seething cauldron of waber between narrow banks, rushing madly down for about 70 yards, unbil ib finally empties itself over the falls wibh a huge roar. We were informed that the* water in the race was going at the rate of 20 miles an hour, and I can quite believe ib, as a tea-tree bush which I threw in was carried out of sight almosb instantaneously. There is a Maori legend connected with this race, to tho effect "that some Maoris from Wanganui, who were on a visit to the Taupo natives, were boasting of their ability in shooting rapids, and stated that there were none in the world which would sbop them. The Taupos replied that they had one which would try their best skill, and so ib was decided bo have the trial the next day. All the preliminaries having been arranged, the Wanganuis sbarbed in bheir canoe, the Taupos having the sense to keep on tho bank, and when they gob bo the head of the race all their blood froze with terror, the steersman being so afraid that he jumped on a rock at the commencement, and the others wore wepb away, nob a trag© of them, ever being

seen afterwards. Just as we were leaving the race to go down and see the falls proper, we saw a young fellow beckoning to us, and when he caught up to ns wo found oat that it was the " Man of Iron" from Auckland, viz., Mr. Gittos, and he accompanied us to WairakeL A little more walking brought us in sight of the falls, and they are a sight once seen never to be forgotten. They are 60 feet in height, but do not appear so, ae they are rather of a slanting character. The Waikato is a fairly large river above the falls, and it empties the whole of its water over, there is a large fall of water, and the concussion makes the ground thereabout to shake. The colour of the water, as ifc comes over the fall, is a dark blue, and as it has a background of spray, it is exceedingly pretty. Mr. Sproule knew a way down at the side, and we followed him for about half a mile along the very edge of the river until we camo to a cave right underneath the falls. We managed to get inside with a little splashing, and had a splendid view of the back of the falls, and could hear tho water rushing overhead with a noise like a train crossing a railway bridge, of course greatly magnified. THE DKVIL'S BLOW-HOLtt. After a final look afc the falls, we walked for about three miles, and, after aecending a steep hill and a small descent on the other side, we came to what Dr. Hector considers the eafefcy valve of New Zealand, i.e., " Kerapibi," or "The Devil's Bk>w-hole." It is situated on the side of a hill, and the vent must be only about a yard in circunifarencc (I didn't trouble to measure), but the steam comes out with immense power, and with a noiae like a hundred locomotives blowing off steam at the same moment. It makes moro noise than the Huka Falls, and if a hat, a bush, or anything is thrown into the hole, it is cast up a distance of about fifty feeb into the air by the force of the steam. It is ceaseless and unvarying,, and is well worbh seeing. [To bo continued.]