THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 9154, 8 September 1888, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

OPERATIONS FOR THE WEEK END-

ING SEPTEMBER 15. KITCHEN GARDEN.

The favourable weather experienced during the winter and the absence of heavy dashing rains often accompanied by hail, so usual at this season of the year, enables the cultivator to carry on the numerous operations in the open ground to advantage, the ground being in good heart and in a workable state. Birds are now very troublesome, and means must be adopted to protect the seed rows and beds from their attacks, otherwise they will destroy the whole crop. They commit most havoc after a shower of rain, drawing the whole of the seedlings up in a short time. The best remedy is to dress all the seeds with red lead. The dressing must be done thoroughly to be effectual. The best method is to place as much seed as it is intended to sow in a shallow vessel. For small seeds such as cabbage, turnip, radish, etc., a saucer is most suitable, then sprinkle a few drops of water over the seeds (if made too wet the seeds and lead will stick together in a mass). Then dust a little powdered red lead over the seeds, and stir the whole thoroughly until all of the seeds are well coated with the lead. Let the seed stand for a while to dry before sowing, or the lead will wash off with the rain. When the seeds are properly prepared, the lead will

adhere to the outer coating of the seeds, even when they appear above ground. With a little practice it will be easy to determine the right amount of moisture before applying the lead, as this is the chief feature to be observed in preparation. Peas may be treated in the same way. The dressing is equally effective against the attacks of mice as well as birds. Kerosene has also been recommended as a remedy to preserve seeds from birds. Sprinkle a few drops over the seed previous to sowing, and tho-roughly mix by well shaking the seeds together. If seeds are treated as above previous to sowing, much annoyance and loss of time in resowing will be saved ; a small quantity of red lead will last the season. Make succesaional sowings of peas and turnips ; also the different varieties for composition of salads. The first sowing of dwarf kidney beans may now be made. Draw out drills two feet apart and two inches deep, sow the seed fairly thick, as they may not all germinate ; if too thick it is easy to thin out previous to earthing up. " Canadian Wonder" is the best all-round variety to sow. Runner or climbing beans, being tall growers, require to be sown at a good distance apart from row to row. A good plan is to sow them from 6 to 12 feet apart, and crop the ground between with other vegetables ; they may also be sown to train up against fences. Main crops of potatoes may now be put in where soils are light and dry; in cold, heavy soils and exposed position defer the planting for a week or two. Seedling tomato plants should be pricked out in boxes, to have them in readiness for early planting. Sow a pinch of celery seed to have plants for succession. Amongst growing crops, such as onions, turnips, and carrots, run the hoe between the drills to loosen the surface, and destroy seedling weeds. Dust the beds over occasionally with lime to destroy slugs. MULCHING FRUIT TREES. Now is the best time to apply top dressing to fruit trees, apples, pears, plums, peaches, gooseberries, currants ; in fact, all kinds of fruit trees and bushes, should receive a good top dressing of stable manure. This operation is too often deferred until the dry weather sets in, when the advantage of mulching are scarcely seen. As soon as the pruning is completed, the soil around each tree should be lightly forked over, and a good layer of manure placed around each, , immediately over the roots. The rain will ' soon wash the strength of the manure into the roots, while the mulching on the top lessens the amount of evaporation from the soil during the dry weather, and prevents the drought from injuring them Mulching encourages the roots to come to the surface, and brings the trees more quickly into bearing, as a good supply of surface roots is a sure sign of fertility. The reason of many trees not fruiting, although making great growth, is from the want of food and moisture near the surface ; the roots having to go deep in search of both, the tree forms a number of strong tap-like roots, but scarcely any fibre. The result is strong sappy growth, which rarely ripens, but scarcely any fruiting buds are formed. When this is the case root-pruning has tojbe resorted to ; whereas, if mulching was done regularly the necessity for root-pruning would rarely occur. I consider, judging from the drought of the last two or three seasons, that mulching is very necessary for the successful cultivation of fruits. I know it is almost impossible for large orchardists to top dress the whole of their trees with stable manure. But if all the weeds, grass, and rubbish were gathered in heaps and allowed to rot, plenty of material would be found for mulching near at hand. One thing is certain, that in the case of trees that are exposed during the very dry weather without any mulching, the roots must seek moisture from below, often from cold clay subsoils. But mulching draws the roots up to the surface, where they get the direct influence of sun and air ; and a heavy crop of fine fruit is generally the result. Kepos.