LADIES COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 9130, 11 August 1888, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES COLUMN.

PREPARING FOR SPRING.

[ [BY QUEEN BEE, IN THE AUSTRALASIAN.] While we are still shivering in the warmest of furs, we are invited to inspect all that is smart and new in the way of spring and summer garments, or the materials wherewith to make them. It is rather early to decide on what, will and will not be fashionable, but at present shot, brocades, striped and plain fabrics to match the above, seem to reign supreme. All these materials are beautiful beyond the average in colouring, style, and texture. They are expensive, of course, but this is as it should be with all rich silken textures, as it saves them from becoming common for at least a time sufficiently long to lose their novelty and brightness. Beside the above, there are quantities of pretty things that are quite new in woollen and cotton fabrics. In the former wo are shown a soft cashmere-like fabric in plain colours, with quaint-coloured borders. These will, no doubt, make charming spring gowns. In Mr. Brittenden's department was shown everything that was new in the way of made-up gowns. Several important directoire gowns attracted much notice on account of their richness. The coat-like upper draperies were formed of Louis Quinze brocade, having dainty little bouquets of flowers, carried out on a foundation of palest rose pink, blue, and gold, etc., so beautifully mingled that they had all the appearance of tho changing shades of a fine opal. The petticoats were of plain shot silks, relieved here and there with draperies of tinted lace. Although these gowns were very grand, most women would prefer those made on the spot, as their quiet elegance would be likely to please much longer than the showy richness of tho imported ones. Some of the smartest of these were made up in figured Liberty's silks—namely, plain grounds with quaint and delicately-coloured designs scattered over them. The ever-useful and dressy black gown was also shown in great variety, relieved with jet and fine lace draperies. At last there seems a tendency to reduce tho height of hats and bonnets. Trimmings are arranged much lower than they have been for some time, and this arrangement makes them infinitely more becoming. But with the lowering of trimmings and crowns comes a brim that widens over tho fate after the manner of the Empire hat, better knowe as La Tosca. The crown is low and flat, and the brim is narrow at the back, widening very much as it reaches the front, with a soft underfacing, and not too much ornamentation on top. This hat promises to be a great favourite. Tho same shape very much modified is called " the Empire" bonnet, and is seen in fancy straw or black lace, prettily trimmed with flowers. To counterbalance the above, there are a variety of smart openwork horsehair and straw bonnets, in close becoming shapes, so tastefully trimmed that the most refined taste must be satisfied. Flowers, of course, play the principal part in all trimmings. Indeed, many of the best bonnets have the entire crowns covered with blooms or petals ; for instance, a black lace and jet bonnet had the crown covered with pink velvetgeranium leaves. Wings and feathers aro still much used as trimmings. A pretty little fawn straw bonnet had a simple but wellarranged mass of ribbon and white wings ; this looked as elegant as any of the most expensive imported ones. Much attention is now given to out-of-door wraps. A very unique mantle with long hanging fronts, showing a small tight coat underneath, was made of grey Indian cashmere, with a palm pattern border, woven in a thousand subdued shades like an Indian shawl. Braiding still forms the principal decoration for smart walking jackets. The same may be said of evening wraps ; when they are not made of silver or cloth-of-gold brocade, braid forms the chief trimming. Sunshades are becoming so elaborate that we shall be afraid to use them for that purpose; they have in some instances become veritable flower baskets. Lace or muslin, much smocked, is draped over a frame, and on this we see flowers spread in garlands or panels. Asa drawing-room ornament, used as we do the Japanese parasols, with a lighted lamp at the back of them, they would, no doubt, be very effective, but for outdoor use they seem quite out of place. Besides these there are some very smart and useful watered silk ones ; others, again, are in chequered or shot silks, with the long Empire handles. With so much choice we can afford to admire the floral parasol at a distance. MAKE YOUR DAUGHTERS INDEPENDENT. It is the refinement of cruelty to educate girls in the aimless fashion of to-day. Boys are trained to look forward to a career of usefulness, while girls grow up without any fixed purpose in life, unless indeed their hopes and ambitions centre upon marriage, as is most often the case. While it is natural and right for girls to look forward to marriage, it will be well for them all when they fully appreciate the undeniable fact that marriage is a remoter possibility now than it was in the days of their grandmothers, and that even those whose fondest dreams may one day be realised have much to do and to learn before they are ready for the life upon which they will enter with such high and happy hopes. No woman is qualified for marriage until she understands domestic economy in all its branches ; the management of servants and the care of the sick and children ; is proficient in needlework ; and, besides all this, |K)ssesses a thorough knowledge of some business, profession, trade, or calling which will ensure her independence on occasion. Now, as a rule, none of these things are taught in school. It is obvious, therefore, that if they are to be learned it must be learned after school is over.

How often one hears a married woman, the mother of a young family who would look to her for support if suddenly deprived of their natural protector, deplore her ignorance of any one accomplishment that would afford her a competence. It is not too much to say that such a one had no right to marry. It was assuming too great a risk ; for no more cruel fate can befall a woman than to be cast upon a cold and heartless world without the means of earning a livelihood for herself and those who may be dependent upon her. A time is liable to come in every life when the all-important question will arise, What can I do to make money ? The possession of wealth is one of the most uncertain things in life. A man may be rich to-day, poor tomorrow, and in a few short months or years his children may see want; witness the series of financial crashes that have lately visited this country. There is many a one suffering to-day for the common necessaries of life whose future seemed radiant with the light of assured prosperity when the New Year dawned.

Upon none does the weight of such trials fall more heavily than upon the women who, having been reared in the lap of luxury, are thus suddenly forced by cruel necessity to turn their attention to something that will keep the wolf from the door. But why did they not anticipate misfortune and make provision for it in more prosperous days? Simply because they had nob the courage to defy public opinion. There is a class of women who need more sympathy and get less than their share, They are those who in girlhood, through no fault of their own, led the listless, aimless life already described, bub who in late years, by some untoward circumstance, are brought face to face with the sad realities of life. Cultured, refined women, who have seen better days, find the struggle for life far more bitter than their more fortunate sisters whose position in life has always been such as to necessitate their earning their own livings. It is for such this plea is made.— Century Magazine.

One of the most skilful whips in London is Miss Nevill, the daughter of Lady Dorothy Nevill, who drives a smart little cart drawn by a chestnut and tigered by a groom in Lady Dorothy's well - known chocolate livery. Lady Curzon is also a smart whip, and can drive a four-in-hand with skill and style.