THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 9094, 30 June 1888, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

OPERATIONS FOR WEEK ENDING

JULY 7.

THE FLOWER (JARDEN.

Rhododendrons.—-The popularity of this important genus is justly merited. The great hardiness of most of the varieties, combined with their handsome foliage, which is relieved by the great variety and brilliance of their flowers, render them of the highest importance for the effective embellishment of tho garden and pleasure ground. There are many drawbacks connected with the cultivation and management of this noble class of plants, one of the chief obstacles bring the high price that has to be paid for the plants in the first place, which renders the possession of this plant an expensive matter, and beyond the reach of many. Their propagation and growth are slow, consequently young plants cannot be offered at low prices. They are a scarce as well as expensive article. A few practical hints on thoir cultivation may be of service to those who are fortunate enough to indulge in this favourite. The most important point to be considered is the securing of a suitable soil. The rhododendron naturally grows and flourishes in peat, which is seldom to be met with in soils immediately around or in the city. A fitting compost has generally to be procured. The best is a fibry sandy peat, rich in decayed vegetable matter. In some soils they will thrive well without any addition whatever. In the absence of peat, a turfy loam from an old pasture is very suitable, adding sand as may bo required. It is an old prejudice that peat and rhododendrons arc inseparable, but at the same time it is a recognised fact that peat, when obtainable, is most desirable. But with a properly prepared and deeply-tilled soil, with good fibry turf and sand mixed \\ i.th it, they will not only grow, but flourish. ? The rhododendron succeeds best in a moiilt situation. A little shelter from cutting nds is desirable, as the flowers and folia je are liable to be cut and damaged by the winds. An important point is to guard against dryness at the roots. With large plants the roots naturally become matted, and the rain is thrown over the roots by the leaves of the plants. Before flowering, they should be freely supplied with water, and during the time they are making growth. In summer the plants are greatly benefited by being mulched to keep the roots moist and prevent evaporation. A surface-dressing of well-rotted manure and sand is also beneficial. The above remarks more particularly apply to the finer sorts, as the politicum section will grow and flourish in almost any soil. THE GREENHOUSE. Most of the tender varieties of greenhouse plants will now require very careful treatment to keep them successfully through winter. Place these in the warmest part of the house, where there is no drip, and water very sparingly. The drier the more tender varieties are kept during the cold frosty nights the better. Allamandas, cleriodendrons, Cisus discolor, and many other deciduous plants will now be in a dormant state. These should be kept dry, watering only when absolutely necessary to keep the plants from dying. Many of the forward plants of primulas, cyclamens, also Gesneria Cooperii, is showing flowers. These are greatly benefited by an occasional watering with liquid manure. Continue to repot primulas, cinerarias, and calceolarias as they advance in growth. In potting see that the pots are well drained. Be careful not to give too great a shift. This is a mistake too often made, and generally leads to disappointment. If a plant is growing in a four-inch pot shift into five, and from five into six, and so on. The time to repot a plant from a smaller to a larger pot is shown by the roots beginning to mat around the outer surface of the ball. It is not necessary to shift when the first roots touch the side of the pot. Let them curl pretty well round the ball, and if the plant is healthy the roots are white, soft, and succulent. But they must not be allowed to remain until the roots become hard and woody. Keep the surface soil stirred around the pots to prevent the growth of moss.

ANSWERS TO CORRKSPONDKNTS. " W.R." (Mount Albert): In reply to your inquiries 10 persimmons, the best varieties are propagated by grafting only. Seedlings take a long time before coming into bearing, and the fruit they produce is, as a rule, very astringent. Persimmons stand at the head of Japanese fruits. As a dessert fruit they are described as delicious, and are said when dried to equal the fig. Like all other fruits, there is a wide difference in the quality of the different varieties. Some are fit for use shortly after being plucked from the tree; others have to undergo a certain process before losing their natural astringency in order to make them sweet and delicious, while other sorts are used only for drying. The best soil for persimmons is a fairly good loam. They should be planted in a warm situation, facing the north. A reliable authority states that persimmons require to be pruned every alternate year. The pruning may be done either in spring or in the autumn; but a knife must not be used, as this tree should not be touched by iron. The pruning may be done by breaking off lie twigs and branches with the hand. The wood of the persimmon is very valuable, being in old trees of the colour and consistency of ebony. "Inquirer," Kaipara (Outside Vines): Outside vines do not generally get the amount of attention they deserve, especially in regard to pruning. It is almost impossible for vines to mature and ripen their fruit when allowed to run wild and 1111pruned, the dense mass of foliage often shutting out sun, heat, and light. You say your vines have scarcely been touched since planted, that they have abundance of fruit, but take the mildew before being fit for use. This may be prevented to a great extent with careful attention. Give the vine.-, a good pruning. The present is n. good time to get such work done. It is always best to prune as soon after the leaves are off as possibo, as the sap is then inactive. In pruning, cut out all summer growth and exhausted wood, keeping only the best ripened canes of the current year. A good method of training outside vines is to train a main cane right and left, about otic foot from the ground. The side (or fruiting laterals) can be tied to stakes ; or. better still, if planted in rows, to wire. By being kept near the ground, they are less liable to tho attack of mildew. 1 have grown grapes this way for three seasons, and so far they liavo been quite free from mildew. Kepos.