A RUN ROUND THE COLONY.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 9082, 16 June 1888, Page 2 (Supplement)

A RUN ROUND THE COLONY.

Leaving Auckland in the early part of the month by one of the Union Company's comfortable steamers, which are a credit to the company and to the colony, our first port was Gisborne, which is considerably improved pince my last visit some years since. The means of communication with the shore are somewhat more pleasant now than they were then. After a few hours' visit, we return to our vessel and starb for Napier, arriving on Saturday, apparently a market day. This is one of the prettiest towns in the colony, but like Gisborne it has had s-me extravagant expenditure in the way of a breakwater. By the way, it is openly stated that the Gisborne break- ■ water is being built on the wrong side of the harbour ! bub as it was absolutely necessary some loan expenditure should be raised and spent here, the position of the breakwater seems to have been a secondary matter ! It is stated that of the £200,000 borrowed, £25,000 is retained by the lenders by way of sinking fund. If the I statement is true, it is a novel way of borrowing. The old boat that used to convey passengers to the Iron Pot is replaced by a larger and stronger steamer, but the " ups and downs" one experiences on visiting the shore, except on a very calm day, do not make it very pleasant for weak stomachs. , Napier has the appearance of being a thriving town, with that great desideratum a back country. Shops of all descriptions are plentiful, and the town is clean and cheerful, unlike some of the larger towns. The crowding and rushing of porters and cab-drivers is regulated by a policeman, to the comfort of visitors. This is also the case at other Southern towns and railwaystations. Why it is not so in Auckland it is difficult to understand. Certainly it should be, and some such arrangements are

more necessary here than in smaller ports where they at present exist. After a short run we reached Wellington and found rain, with, however, full hotels, the host of the popular Occidental not being able to find our passengers any sleeping accommodation, for, what with members of Parliament, members of the legal profession attending the Appeal Court, footballers, and visitors, all the hotels were driving a brisk trade. Wellington seems to progress, being about the only town where buildings are still in course of erection, and houses to let are scarce. After a day's stay we left for Lyttelton, much the same place as ever. At low or half-tide there does not

as ever, at low or mui-tiue mere uues nor, appear to be too much water on entering the harbour, for I observed our steamer had to make a long , detour, and considerably stirred up the mud. Beaching Christchurch by rail, we find the City of the Plains a busy town, although all complain of the dullness of trade, and excessive competition. Food, however, seems very cheap here. I observed mutton ticketed up 2s 6d per half-sheep ! After a short stay, proceeded by rail to Dunedin, and here I obtained my first glimpse of the vast plains, all more or less in a state of cultivation. An English visitor who was with me remarked, " Well, this is indeed a fine country, and only wants population to make it a prosperous one," although he naturally wondered why a railway should have been built all along the sea coast, where sea carriage could be so easily and so cheaply obtained. The railway should have been taken through the centre of the Island, thus opening up the back country. I think he is only one of many who have expressed similar opinions. After a brief visit to Ashburton, Timaru, and Oamaru, where, icing Saturday, all looked busy, more particularly at Timaru, we resumed our carriage for Dunedin, and the days being short, were only able to get brief views of Port Chalmers and Dunedin, which town appears, however, to be far better lighted than Auckland. On the next day we had a good view of the city and its environs. It is, undoubtedly, a fine city, and with some good buildings and pleasant suburbs. The cable trams are a great institution, and are admirably adapted for hilly streets. It is a great pity we have not the same lines in Auckland. Though, no doubt, the first cost is greater, the saving in horseflesh and feed must be enormous, while suburban properties must be greatly enhanced in value by the ease with which residents can get to their homes. The harbour and shipping display is not much ; indeed, Auckland seems to possess the finest harbour in

the colony. Business appears to be dull, complaint's are very numerous, and a large number of persons seem to be leaving the province, while there were very few staying at the various hotels. Princesstreet is a fine long street, with numerous shops and warehouses, banks, &c, which would be a credit to any English city. After a stay of three days, I proceed on my return to Christchurch, and had a good view of tiie environs of Dunedin and Port Chalmers by daylight, also the Blueskin Pass, which is a dangerous spot. Proceeding onward at better speed than on Auckland railways, we stopped at Oamaru, Timaru, and numerous stations, and reached Christchurch in the evening—glad to rest at our hotel after a long twelve hours' railway ride. The next day obtaining a buggy, with a friend I proceeded to pay a visit at the seaside summer 'resorts—Sumner and New Brighton—and then for a half-day on the pretty winding River Avon, which is a great ornament to the city. Proceeding thence to Lyttelton we found the harbour lit up by the electric light. It is, I presume, a success, but it being full moon we had not a fair opportunity to form an opinion. Once more we crossed the Straits, not quif-e so smooth as one could wish, and reached the " hub" of the colony. On the following day we had an opportunity of seeing the Volunteers turn out, and they made a most respectable appearance. On the previous evening, having obtained a member's ticket, we visited the House, and listened for an hour to a dreary discussion, with half-empty benches, on thistles—local and imported—but gave up the riddle and left for our hotel.

The next day left in the Union Company's boat for Picton, which was reached after a short run of six hours, going up the Sounds by moonlight, and a very pretty romantic place it is. Picton was much as usual—perhaps a trifle more lively on account of it being Queen's Birthday, and the Blenheim brass band gave us a few tunes in the somewhat uncrowded streets. There was also a Birthday ball, which was well attended by all the elite of the neighbourhood. Picton seems to have gone backward, there being apparently a number of ruinous and empty dwellings, while the railway trains went at such a funeral space that we made up our minds that it was going to the local cemetery. Leaving the Sounds at one a.m., we passed through the French Pass, about three a.m., and a very pretty scene it was, reaching Nelson about nine a.m. This pretty town was bathed in sunlight, and here we found one of the wonders of the day—cheap clean cabs and civil obliging drivers ; from the port to the town, or vice, verm (a ride of about 1 J miles), in a two-horse cab, for 6d. Trade seemed very quiet here, but they are used to it, and the residents are determined not to die of undue excitement. It is a city to take life easy in, and should be a healthy town to dream away a quiet life. Leaving here about dusk, we steamed for New Plymouth, and here our troubles commenced, and we met with our usual reception next morning, a lumpy sea and plenty of "screw" vibration. To our disappointment we were informed the vessel would only stay an hour (although, she actually stayed three). However, we just had time for a run from the port to the town in the pouring rain, and take a glance at this old-established settlement, whereas we had hoped for the greater part of a day. After a very brief visit to several old friends, we had to hasten back, and after some delay put to sea sooner than was necessary, because of the low water at the wharf. It is said the sand is silting up, and will render the present breakwater practically useless after a time. On the smoothest day a good surf breaks on the Sugarloaves. It must be a grand sight on a stormy day, with a gale from the west. We had a wretched time of it after leaving Taranaki, as it usually is. Myself and another were all who appeared at the din-ner-table, although there were numerous passengers, and we were considerably "off colour," so that, beyond watching the glasses and plates, the obliging steward's duties were light. After a long, wearisome, rough night, Manukau lights were readied, and we had the pleasure of being " rocked in the billows of the deep" for some two or three hours, waiting for the tide, to cross the bar. Thence we steamed up to Onehunga Wharf just in time to meet the train, and the rain. A"c\ thus ended my short-time run around tJ. ' nv. l\