DUE SOUTH.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 9047, 7 May 1888, Page 6

DUE SOUTH.

[by our special correspondent.] On reaching Wellington again from Napier, I determined to take a run South, see Lake Wakatipu, and go on to the Bluff. A numbar of members of Parliament, Messrs Percival, Macgregor, J. C. Brown, and two of the Ministers (the Hons. T. Fergus and T. W. Hislop), were on board the steamer, jaded with the worry and late hours of tho session, and glad to get back to their Southern homes. In addition were a crowd of excursionists, taking advantage of the liberal excursion fares of the Union Company to Lyttelton, and of the Railway Department on tho Southern lines. A berth was not obtainable for love or money, all having been engaged ahead, and when night set in, and the moon shed her mellow light on the scene as wo stood out into the Straits, up went tho canvas awnings, and the deck was pricked for a soft spot on which to seek repose, giving the impression, as one looked upon the prostrate forms strewn about in rugs, of a troop-ship with invalids or wounded. The smoking saloon was rushed early in the evening. Happy the man who got a cushion, twice nappy he who secured tho table-top, while a quiet berth underneath it was not to be despised. Ono man, who was incautious enough to go out on deck at midnight for a cooler, thinking ho might do so with safety, found on his return, to his horror, that his claim had been jumped by the early bird that gets the worm. The passages leading from this apartment were also utilised by some old campaigners, and this led to a ludicrous incident. During the night some restless sleeper desiring a stroll on deck traversed the passage all unwitting of the prostrate sleepers. Presently one of them, a commercial traveller on his way to Christchurch, let out an unearthly howl on the still night air. I endeavoured to soothe him by asking gently if the wayfarer had trod upon his corns. "Corns, be blowcd 1" was the omphatic rejoinder, "why, man, the elephant walked up my ' bloomin' leg !" The weather was delightful, so that no inconvenience worth speaking of was felt by the excursionists, many of whom preferred the deck to the closer air of the cabins.

LYTTELTON. Morning found the Hawea running along the coast, and Lyttelton Heads looming up before us. As we steamed up the harbour tho harbour defences were closely scanned in view of General Schaw's report, which had only just been made public ; and it was understood that the Minister of Defence (the Hon. T. Fergus) would utilise the few hours at his disposal before leaving with the special night train for Dunedin in inspecting them. The range of hills at the back of the port, with the houses built up in terraces along them, reminded one of Grahamstown. Two of the first men I stumbled against on landing were Ser-geant-Major Mason, formerly of the Auckland police force, and the Rev. James Hill, formerly of St. James's Presbyterian Church, and who as President of the old Wellington-street Literary Association has the satisfaction of seeing now many of the young men he trained filling positions in every grade of life. Three of them are in the General Assembly, others at the bar, or in positions of trust in our batiks, insurance companies, and loan companies, or in ordinary commercial life. He looks back regretfully on those "good old days." There was brief space for chat, for the locomotive was screeching itself hoarse, and making a few preliminary snorts before dashing with the long train into the famous mountain tunnel en route for Christchurch. CHRISTCHURCH. On debouching from the tunnel the sight presented was one calculated to gladden the eye. We emerged into a level country, well cultivated, with trim hedgerows, and diversified by suburban residences, gardens, and homesteads. The grass paddocks, the neat hedgerows, and the villas scattered about reminded one of the tract of ilat country from Newmarket to Onehunga, only much more densely populated. A few minutes' run and the City of the Plains came into view, and the Cathedral, with the towering spire we had seen at sea over the low land, dominating the plain. Being holiday time, the fine spacious streets were filled with a bustling crowd, largely reinforced by contingents from the country districts, and the steam trams wore crowded with passengers hurrying to and fro for the various suburbs. Still there were complaints of depression and dulness of trade, and here and there handsome two and three-storied blocks of buildings in business thoroughfares, with the ominous notice in the windows, To Let," showed that Christchurch, like all the other centres of population in the colony, was suffering the penalty of over-building and undue land speculation. I was shown paddocks in the suburbs, cut up on the checkerboard pattern, and sold on speculation, on which not a single house had ever been erected,-and which seemed likely to revert to agricultural purposes. I had seen all this nearer home. It was my good fortune to fall in with an old Auckland pressman and acquaintance in Mr. Plunkett, formerly of the Southern Cross, but now of the Lyttelton Times, who was kind enough during my brief stay to show me tae "lions" and places of interest. From the top of the Cathedral a magnificent view was obtained of the city stretching away on all sides, with its handsome public buildings and parks, and the view rimmed in across the plains by the Southern Alps, clothed in eternal snow. The bellringer, after ringing the chimes, had rather the advantage of me when he inquired about the Parnoll chimes, and Bishopscourt. Among other places I visited was Hagley Park, but time did not permit seeing whoro the thousands of pounds had been absorbed by the Christchurch unemployed in pathforming there, and which had vexed the soul of Mr. Goldie during the session. Hard by the entrance is a statue of the late W. S. Moorhouse, one of the Canterbury Superintendents, and the man who carried out that great public work, the railway tunnel, which pierced the mountain range, and bound together Christchurch and Lyttelton with bands of iron. As I looked upon the statue I recalled to memory my pleasantchats with Mr. Moorhouse in the days gone by. In the Museum I saw a still older acquaintance—in a portrait of the late Mr. Edward Gibbon Wakefieldheard again as in the early days of the New Zealand Parliaments, his jocund laugh, his cheery jests—a man who bore success or adversity with an even pulse, and kept his heart green to the end. There, too, was a bust of one I had known, tho burly Von Hochstetter, of Novara expedition celebrity. These remembrancers of the Past recalled to memory many reminiscences of men and things in tho long ago, fast fading into oblivion. Christchurch possesses two fine bowling greens, both of which I visited, and found the pleasant pastime in full swing. In one of the rinks could be descried the Minister of Defence bearing a hand. In the evening I went down to Cathedral Square, it being the custom of the Christchurch Garrards on Saturday evenings from that classic spot to orato, and show how enlightened Communism and Christian Socialism should work. To my disappointment the meeting did not come off, tho festivities of tho season having led to a temporary postponement. of the discussion of the insoluble problem as to tho unequal distribution of the good things of this life. These social reformers must just draw such consolation as is obtainable from Voltaire's cynical axiom, that we may soo what Providence thinks of riches by the sort of. people upon whom it bestows them. Whatever depression Christchurch may be suffering from now, she cannot help prospering with the progress of tho province. As those fertile plains get settled up closely—as men replace sheep—and tho Midland Railway diverts tho traffic of the West Coast settlements through Christchurch and its seaport, the provincial capital of Canterbury is bound to feel tho impetus, and will respond to it by stretching its far-reaching arms over that fair landscape. Mr. Porcival, tho member for Christchurch South, and a rising member of the Canterbury party, strongly recommended me to soe the Canterbury country districts before proceeding South, but time forbade. EN ROUTE TO DUNEDIN. As night sot in the fine spacious railway station bccame a scene of life and bustle, for a special night train was running through to Dunedincrowded with excursionists. The prospects of sleep were very faint, for many of the tourists were bent on making a night Of it; but for once I

was in luck's way. A special carriage with a sleeping car was attached to the train for the convenience of the Ministers and members of Assembly southward bound, and the Hon. Mr. Fergus kindly gave me an invitation, and thus I was enablod bo make the long dreary night journey in comfort. Dawn had broken just before wo reached the settlement of Mr. T. Parata (the hon. member for the Southern Maori electoral district). Two old Maori dames were to the creek with their calabashes for water in tho early morn, and on descrying their respected representative, they waved their garments most emphatically, with cries of " Haercmai! Haere-mai !" I don't doubt that the welcome ho received was more sincere and hearty, if not more impressivo, than that which some of his European confreres received on returning to their constituents. Parata with conscious pride pointed out to .no his cultivated paddocks, his Hocks of sheep, and herds of cattle. He is a shrewd intelligent Maori, and in his speeches in the General Assembly was always ready to give a reason for the hope that was in him. Sunday morning was fairly in as we neared SeaeliiT Asylum. By-and-by we passed Port Chalmers, and shortly ran into the Dunedin station.

DUNEDIN. One could not but be favourably impressed with the city, on looking at tho lino solidly - built business premises to be seen on every hand, and which seemed capable of doing the business of a city of twice its population. It spoke volumes for the energy, the enterprise, and pluck of its merchants ; but some of them were bemoaning the dull times, and regretting that they had been so enterprising. Among tho business premises I visited were those of Sargood, Ewen, and Co.; and as Mr. John Ross, the resident partner, but formerly of Auckland, took me from storey to storey of the establishment (double the size of the Auckland branch), and filled with all sorts of merchandise, I began to think I was in a sort of colonial Whiteley's Universal Provider. Even the lawyers' offices seem to blossom out in the same palatial wayfor the chambers of Sir Robert Stout, in general stylo, and in the elegance of the decorations and appointments, were far in advance of anything of the kind in Auckland. Though business was dull in Dunedin, arising principally from the same causes as in Christchurch, over-building and land inflation, there were evidences that faith in the commercial progress and advancement of the city was in no wise shaken. The Australian Mutual Provident Society was putting up one of the handsomest blocks of buildings I have seen in the whole colony, while down near the railway station, the New Zealand Insurance Company were also building fine and spacious business premises. The public buildings of the city, the educational establishments, the churches, etc., were all of the most substantial character. The artisans as a class, in the streets at certain hours, as in Auckland, gave token that local industries were fairly represented. I fell in with an old acquaintance in Mr. Morrison, the manager of tho Mosgiel Factory, and found him, like his own woollens, "a' ae 'oo'." It was my intention to have visited the factory, at Mosgiel, where some 300 hands are employed, forming in fact a settlement, with its institutions, etc., but owing to the holidays the mill was closed, and the employes scattered through the province seeing their friends. In addition to supplying the domestic demand, the Mosgiel Company, I was informed, -was pushing a good trade in New South Wales, and was even getting some lines of heavy goods into Victoria despite a severe protective tariff, and at rates which defied competition even from England itself. All the patterns of the tartans of the different Highland clans are being manufactured, and I saw hunting and full dress suits of the Mackintosh and Macpherson clan patterns, which had been ordered from Ceylon and from India, Tonal'even under an Indian sun longing for the garb of his native heath. The Roslyn mill was likewise shut down, so that I was unable to see it either, or the specialities of its manufacturing plant. The working of the cable tramways led one to wonder when these aids to traffic on steep grades would be introduced into Auckland. Dunedin may be regarded as the home of New Zealand bowling, and I had the pleasure of being introduced to " the father of Dunedin bowlers," Mr. Callender. In acknowledging the compliment of being the father of Dunedin bowlers, helamented to me that he had "some disobedient ' bairns'." Judging by what subsequently happened re the tournament his fears were justified. There are several fine bowling greens in the city and suburbs ; that which I visited, the Dunedin (of which the Hon. T. Fergus is president) being one of the best. Although the Old Identity have been to some extent crowded out by the New Iniquity, one could not walk the streets without being reminded at every turn that one was in a city and province founded by Scotchmen. Oatmeal, like blood, will tell. A statue of Robert Burns in one of the public squares shows these settlers have carried thither the hero-worship of their countrymen of the national poet of Scotland. I was reminded, too, at many a railway station en route to Wakatipu that Scottish associations and traditions were still paramount in the breasts of the hardy, frugal, industrious settlers who tilled the soil. Groups of men were at the wayside stations clad in their kilted tartans, with philibeg, sporran, and skene-dhu, and the skirl of tho bagpipes was to be heard, as they proceeded en route to some country Caledonian gathering. From the Mornington heights a grand panoramic view was obtainable of the city below, the Peninsula beyond, and of the north-east Valley and Ocean Beach on either hand.

During my stay in Dunedin I had an interview with the ex-Premier, Sir Robert Stout, on political matters. While travelling on the Manawatu line one day I heard two jokers discussing his defeat in Dunedin East. One of them remarked that Sir Robert resembled Lazarus inasmuch as he had been " licked by the dogs," which seemed somewhat rough on the free and independent of Dunedin East. Assuredly, if he had been "licked," I saw 110 sign of " soreness," and as we chatted together in his pleasant villa of Bankton, on the heights above the city, I could not help thinking that in looking out from thence through " the loopholes of retreat" on the political world beyond, and in enjoying the emoluments of his lucrative professional business, Sir Robert had a much better time of it than in enduring the worry of public life or the fickleness of the many headed—" one day adored like Horcb's calf, the next all pasnt in pieces." DUNEDIN' TO WAKATIJPU. On the morrow I started for Wakatipu. As tho train hour after hour passed important industrial works, coal mines, pleasant townships, and through fertile plains in a high state of cultivation, I began to get a better idea of the resources of Otago, and to recall to mind Mr. Macandrew's boast that " Otago carried tho colony on its back." One thing was particularly noticeable. Every settlement had its line public school and neat church with picturesque spire. There was usually a church and an hotel. Occasionally t wo hotels and a church, because though there might be but one opinion about the Longer or Shorter Catechism, there were sometimes two opinions about the whisky. As we bowled over the Waimea Plains, the rabbits scuttling right and left in front of the engine, a graphic conception was got of the trouble in front of the run-holders. The Lake scenery is beautiful, but of a different kind of beauty to that of our own Jjjiko country. At Q.ueenstown I fell in with Captain Wing, superintendent of tho Lake Steam Navigation Company, and son of Captain Wing, of the Manukau. The great drawback is that owing to tho comparative paucity of tourists, the travelling arrangements do not admit of business men hurrying through and getting back to their engagements, and many who would visit the bakes are deterred from doing so in consequence. As the tourist traffic increases all this will be remedied. On the road from Wakatipu to Invercargill I met an Invercargill banker on his way back to that township, who had spent three weeks at tho Lakes—Wakatipu, Wanaka, and Manapouri —and who was simply enthusiastic about the scenery. On this route also, between Lumsden and Invercargill, I passed through some fine agricultural country. INVEIICAnOILL AND THE BLUFF. Invercargill has been termed " the city of magnificent- distances." It is one of the best laid out towns in the colony, and appears to have overbuilt itself also, as there were great complaints of depression. The land and allotment mania had been rampant here, and many were suffering from undue

and rash speculation. Mr. Feldwick (member for Invercargill) kindly showed me many of the places of interest. Among others whom I met were Mr. T. M. Macdonald (of the firm of Macdonald and Russell, solicitors) an old Aucklander, with whom I renewed a pleasurable acquaintance after a lapse of a quarter of a century ; and Mr. Hatch, the ex-member for Invercargill, who is as cheery and voluble as evor, and as profoundly convinced of the virtues of Hatch Sheep Dip. He was just about to start on a diplomatic mission to the country districts, but time would nob pel mit my accepting his hospitable invitation to see it through. A water supply was about to be brought in, at a cost of £30,000. In the batch of Harbour Bills before the Assembly, Invercargill had its little Bill. _ There is no doubt if it were possible to give it a harbour, or to bring up the intercolonial steamers, it would nave a bright future before it. It is a pity that travellers landing at the Bluff see about the poorest sample of New Zealand soil and scenery, and first impressions are strongest. It is said it is always either blowing or raining in that locality, but at the time of my visit Jupiter Pluvius and old Boreas had got muddled up in their turns, and were both at it; in consequence a steamboat excursion to Stewarts Island had to be put off. Here I fell in with Mr. Ward, representative for Awarua, and an energetic member of the young New Zealand party. He has a large grain and produce business both at Invercargill and the Bluff, and has lately visited Australia to investigate matters in connection with Protection and Free Trade. Coming back to Invercargill, I went along the other side of the triangle of the railway, from Invercargill to Gore, the place of residence of Mr. Valentine, the member for Waikaia, and the energetic manager of the New Zealand Agricultural Company, thence on to Dunedin. On the return journey from Dunedin to Lyttelton, by train, I was fortunate enough to fall in with the Dunedin delegates to the Nelson Educational Conference, a genial set of fellows, who could " sink the shop," and, to speak by the card, made the milestones pass merrily by with social chat and jest. In passing through Oamaru, though the day was fairly fine, the sea was dashing through the gap in the Oamaru breakwater. Some amusing stories were told of the sorrows of the Oamaru people in relation to the breakwater. They cannot be accused of an " ignorant impatience of taxation," for it was stated that some taxpayers were willing to surrender their properties to anyone who would pay the taxes, and were moving across the boundary to get outside the taxable area. On reaching Lyttelton the s.s. Penguin was waiting with steam up, and, Frisco outward mail on board, and she speedily steamed out of harbour to the inspiriting strains by a Highland piper of " The Reel of Tullochgorum." Noon next day found me back once more at Wellington, en roidt for Auckland, knowing more of the South than I had done before, and having a few provincial prejudices rubbed off by the trip.