LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXIII, Issue 7752, 25 September 1886, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

FASHIONS. COTTON* FABRICS, Tiie zephyr clothes aro now made in all the designs which, during tho winter, found such favour iu woollen and silk goods, in place of velvet, plush, and friiO stripes on silk faille serge, or canvas. By a new process these stripes are finished so as to hare all the soft appearance of .chenille or plush, while they aro in permanent colours in cotton ; they are striped and tufted, tho figure portion being in all cnses supplied in proportioned lengths with tho plain zephyr, so that the " combination " style is the rulo in these as in more costly materials. Checks will be' quito as popular as stripes; tho colours are well-assorted, and the contrasts, whether in light or dark shades, aro exceed., ingly good, and tho variations in the sizes of the patterns—in checks from tiny squares up to elaborate tartan patterns-, and iu stripes from the hair-line to bands several inches broad—is as great as in the colours. The lace r.aphyrs, that is zephyrs with broad stripes woven to simulate white lace, are very attractive in light colours. For afternoon wear thoy are moat suitable ; in pink*, blues, an/I fawns they are striped in > uNi and cream. There are also blue sniped, with brown; light blue striped, with navy and other combinations. The zephyrs, embroidered in white, will this season be greatly worn ; the embroidery is on the zephyr, in widths for flounces, and Harrow for trimming the bodico and drapery ; the foundation is woven with a white weft, and the white embroidery harmonises particularly well with the material. They aro in browns, greys, light-blue, ficelle, and navy. Tho number of qualities shown may be guessed from the range in price, which is is from 16* 9d to £5 oi the robe. NOVXL MILLINKKY MO DHLS. As week by week fresh shipments arrive, the loading features of the sjason'a changes become more decided. In the latest display at Victoria House are two bonnets whose name alone give them a charm. The first of these, the Carrington, is of blue lisse gauze and denielte invisible; the design on the bonnet and in the front lace is in white ; the front ia Olivia shape, tho crown flat ; the front ia a series of rows of lace fully gathered over the centre ; bows of double s;'.tin ribbon, i.e., satin en each side, placed to at mid high, anil a small one under the brim, form the trimming. The harbord is in heliotrope lace, with a crown and coronet of net work iu shaded violet heliotrope. The lace is fully puffed beyond the bead crown, and the trimming is of satin bows, faille, and lace intermixed.

There is a marked change in the decline in the use of feathers, and particularly of wings, and tho favour with which the simple garden and wild flowers are regarded. In hats & specialty will be those drawn in muslin and lace; lor young faces th ay are very becoming and appropriate. In one high-crowned hat, the shape and height nearly equal to a Woimandy peasant's Cap, the crown was of cream-tinted Indian muslin, pulled or drawn to the centre ; the brim was of muslin, edged with lace; the trimming yellow roses and hyacinths, with a small feather. A flower-pot head hat was of drawn figured net, cream shade, the brim to match, cream bows in front, and a bunch of cornflowers with a cream feather, waving among the blossoms.

Bonnets of tulle, or of flowers without foliage, veiled with tulle of the same shade, are much worn by young ladies; they are the Olivia shape, high in front, aud rounded at the edge above the cars ; the crown is shaped so as to fully display the hair at the back ; the trimmings are placed high in the centro; no strings are worn. Models in pink, salmon, and white are shown ; in the white, the bonnets are generally of tulle ovor net or gold wire foundations, the trimming bows of velvet or ribbon, or a bunch of flowers, unmounted, of a decided contrast to the tulle, and always placed in the centre. A novel-shaped hat is the helmet; it is of cream spotted net, drawn over broad ribs or bands placed edgeway ; the brim very harrow at the back, and widens over the forehead, and is bordered with jet beads, graduated in size, following the shape at the brim. A very pretty " flower-pot" crown with a cavalier brim was of black lace drawn over a good wire foundation. The brim was slightly raised on the left side, and a large spray of salmon-coloured flowers partly held back the brim, and reached to the edge of tho crown. An Olivia bonnet of moss gauze closely drawn and bordered entirely with a broad plait of gold bullion braid had a bunoh of autumn brown and red leaves with bows of blue tulle. The colours sound strange to the ear, but the tints are so well harmonised that the combination is very elegant. Another very pretty " Princess," with a higher crown than this shape had originally, was of cream laae studded with email pearls ; the crown, front, and back edged with three rows of pearls, the centre much larger than the outer rows ; hows of cream velvet ribbon in the front fastened with handsome ornaments of gold, sot with pearls, cluster of I cream feathers, with pearls attached. A charming bonnet for a wedding or summer fete. A Princess bonnet in maize-coloured denletle invisible is trimmed with candytuft flowers iu deep cream velvet ; an aigrette in moss, with green and brown grass in tho centre, gives an effective finish to the trimming ; maize string*.

FASHIONABLE MILLINERY. Spring shows are following each other in rapid succession, and the shops are like so many gay flower gardens with their wealth of bright colours ; for that gay colour* are fashionable this season in an undoubted fact, especially in millinery. ihe hats and bonnets themselves are as a rule of some neutral tint, but the feathers, flowers, and ribbons with which they arc trimmed are generally of bright colours. A good opportunity of seeing the various styles of the present season is afforded by the spring show just now being held by Mrs. Chuck at her new establishment, 81, Bourkc-strect East. I cannot do more than name » few of the models shown to mo the other day, when admiring the extensive stock of fashionable novelties. One of the most stylish hats to be seen here is tho Mikado, a high-crowned shape covered with tabac silk, over which is drawn delicate lace on the same shade ; the edge of the brim is studded with bronze beads, and the front is finished off with a cluster of tabac feathers, and bows of ealtnou pink ribbon. This is a pretty and fashionable combination of colouring. The Canzone, a white straw hat with high crown, depressed at the top into a diamond shape, is trimmed with exquisite lisse lace, embroidered with pearls aiiil white feathers, the brim being lined with mousse velvet, and edged with bronze beads. The Katinka is another highcrowned white straw hat cut up at the back, and trimmed with buttercup and white ribbons and feathers, with a beautiful cameo bucklo at each side. A pretty bcigo straw hat, of the improved sailor shape with indented crown, is lined with crimson velvet and edged with bronze beads, tho outside trimming consisting of a hand and bows of velvet with cluster of beige tips. Another hat, of the Canzone shape, is of black straw edged with jet heads, and trimmed with buttercup and black velvet and lace, with ft bunch of cream velvet roses to one sido. Several capotes are also noticeable ; one formed of black is edged round the front with a wreath of deep yellow roses entirely veiled with black lace. A very stylish black lace hat of the sailor shape is turned up at the back and trimmed with a cluster of pale pink velvet roses, while a scarf of black lace comes from the bank and is intended to be wound round the neck ar.d 1/i'itein'd "i 1 one side with a pink bow. fv'ine of the bonnets are really charming, and nro so " avici aM to meet ail tastes. One formed c* black 'ace lias a* transparent brim of large jet bea ; s strung on wir*-, with a cluster ot cream (lowers aud two bows of greyish green ribbon. Another of tabac embroidered lisso has a straw coronet covered with folds of tabac velvet, and a cluster of cream velvet roses ; tabac strings. A simple and pretty little coronet bonnet of white straw has the front trimmed with ruby velvet, silver braid,and a handsome osprey. A Marie Stuart bonnet of black lace over silk is edged with jet beads and trimmed with pale yellow flowers. Another black lace bonnet with brim of jet beads is adorned with a cluster of heliotrope flowers.

Mrs. Chuck's establishment is no longer confined entirely to millinery, as formerly, but now embraces the very important branch of dressmaking. Miss Skinner, who superintends this branch, has a large connection, and appears to be kept busy. A number of dressed made at this establishment were shown to me. and appear well ami stylishly made. Let us wish Mis t'huck all success in her new picnises, which are even more central than those occupied by her formerly. —Iris, in the Leader.