LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXIII, Issue 7650, 29 May 1886, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

WINTER FASHION NOTf<S

The advance of the season has quite fixec the leading types of the winter fashions, aud there is no longer any doubt about what i to be worn for cold weather. As compare( to last winter, the colouring of the material is very much the same, but it is in th< material itself that the chauge baa takei place. The general style and make up o our winter gowns no longer hangs in tin balance, but is now quite decided. Tour nure and its large steels are disappearing and are no longer seen in the best gowns. Ii the future frocks will be just "set otf" fron the waist by a small horsehair pad ; thi allows of a slight rise in the hollow of th< back. Kiltings arc only used on walking o tailor-made dresses : those usually have i long overdress tint is cut up in panels, hav ing small fans of kilted material let into thi open spaces of the panels. The back drapery falls in folds. These gowns are not eo wide in the skirt as of old, aud cling more to th< figure in front. Fashion ia oscillating betweei two distinct styles of toilettes, one which has a good deal of drapery on the skirt am a plain habit bodice. Cloth or rough wooller materials are usually selected for the making' up of these simple but stylish gowns. The second style, although a great favourite, is more suitable for carriage wear, unless made up in simple fabrics. The front of the skirl is mountel in a very wide box-plait, and is oi striped veltet ; the back ia plaited up to the waist. From each side of the box-plait come: a wide silk rash, sown in at about a quarter of a yard below the waist; this is sometimes taken up to the waist at the back, and tied in a large bow with drooping ends. The "pentes" silks, with their rich velvet bands, make up into very effective gowns when combined with ca&hrnero. The silk would, of course, form the plain petticoat. The small hip drapery and bodice should be made of the cashmere. I recently saw one of these dresses made up in the following manner :—The skirt was of royal blue silk, with three bands of velvet at tho foot; the frjnt fell quite plain, but tho bad- was laid in deep, full plaits ; over this fell a deep, full tunic of palo drab cashmere. The bodice of the cashmere had .1 vest wrought out of a stripe of the velvet, with culls and collars of the same. A companion gown to the above was of cigar brown faille and beaver ; at the foot of the skirt was a deep baud of beaver. The loner, cutaway coat was edged with tha same fur, aud formed a very effective finish. In mantles there is littlo new ; the Battenberg in c 'loured astrachiin, plush, and rough cloth holds its own for slight figures. Small outdoor jackets arc often made to match the costume : these always look well whun trimmed with fur, velvet, or large buttons. A notable mantle, and one that is quiet new in shape, was worn at the Women's Hospital Baazir. It, w.ia nude of brown plush, anil was tight-fitting to the waist behind and perfectly plain, save for two wide bands of rosary-bead embroidery down the fronts. The fronts were cut straight from the neck to the foot. The arms were slung in under the loose front?, which wore edged with binds or rich, light-coloured bears' fur. A novelty in long, tight coats was made of dark bro«n cloth, having large revera ; collars and cuffs of orange-coloured plush. This combination reads rather pronounced, but was, in reality, in very good taste. Fur, the warmest and most comfortable of winter wear, appears on (-very article of clothing for outdoors, and is likely to be an much worn here as it whs at homo last winter. Boas of sable, boar, silver fox, and skunk, nearly three yards long, are to be seen at our drapery establishments- They are sometimes wound round and round the neck ; ethers allow them to hang down straight till they t'Hich the hem of the gown. They are moat effective when coiled round the neck, but this practice is rot to be recommended on the -ore of cold-catching, as such wrapping is sure to result in additional delicacy, ami lead to relaxed aud sore throats. Ball and evening gowns are becoming more and more richly elaborate. Silk and eatin fronts are draped or veiled in the most beautiful of crystal embroideries, gold, silver, or iridescent moonlight beads, A poem of a gown is rmi'ie up in the moat delicate shade of pink watered silk ; straight panels of plain faille form the sides ; these were ornamented with black velvet aud jet, the petticoat being finished in the same way. The lone square train had a small kilting of the black volvct at its edge. The low bodice had jet sleeve?, and a bertha of velvet. Black net gowns for evening wear are popular, but are now generally accompanied by black velvet bodices cut low, and very much trimmed with j-t. fJard to please, indeed, will be the woman who dooH not suit herself very easily with hat or bonnet. Close, neat, little straw felt bonnets that arc not expensive, yet very stylish, are to be had in abundance, and in almo.nt any colour. They arc trimmed with set cockade bows and a bird of bright plumage, and often edged with rosary bead?. Bright red velvet bonnets are to be seen ; these are toned down with black velvet and set; they are very becoming to brunettes. The low-crowned turban is much favoured, and is often made of velvet to mutch the costume. When of straw they ere simply trimmed with bows of velvet and the wing of a bird. The edge of the hat should be entirely bound by velvet ■, whea thin is only done half-way they have a. n unfinished appearance. Fur still nlay3 a conspicuous par: in the construction and trimming of bonnets and hats : many are made entirely of fur, aud, although stylish in appearance, they are very heavy, and will be the cause of many a headache to the wearers thereof ; but when used for ornamentation only it i 3 very good, especially tho small pads of beaver that nrc used in conjunction with feather ospreys for the fronts of bonnets.—" Queen Jiee," in the Australasian. NEW MODES-OF lIAIRDRESSING. For thick and Huffy hair the following is a becoming style : — JJivido front hair across the head from ear to ear, and comb towards the face ; raise the hair from back to top, tie it, and divide into two portions ; comb front hair a Li Puinptiduui; and pin it where back hair is tied. Form from each portion of back hair a loop, and place them in opposite directions, 0110 towards front, the other towards back of thn head. All manner of hairpins are placed in the loop and twists of hair, of transparent shell set with pearls and gems, or decorated with gt Id devices, enamel, and hoops of silver and gold. Where the hair is not very heavy, several of these pins aro thrust through it without the assistance of a comb. Just now roughened locks are rather the favourites, and straggling locks of hair from the back ( f the neck are considered graceful. This description of coiffure does not increase the size of the head, nor give it a shape different from that to which we have grown accustomed during tho last two years. Uno example allows the hair an upward point in the fiout, and in place of the fringe, which imparts to some facee so hard an outline, ice or four small open curls are laid upon the forehead, behind which others rise coiiically, increasing in siza as they approach the back of thu head, whore they aro met by a double twiat, bo arranged as to leave two ends, one of which is short, and can be tucked into tho twist, and the other curled closely into the nape of the neck, this curl being made largo or small, according to the size of the head. The knot coming from the buck is intended to stand high, instead of being laid flatly over the front hair, and trifling varieties are introduced into this mode of hairdrensing to suits the face of the wearer, who, if she possesses an average supply oi hair, can have it dreaeed in this fashion without supplementing ic. In another instance, the hair on one side of the face is raised higher than the other, and relief given to the forehead by feathery cnrlH laid flatly upon it, so is to form an irregular undulation. Above tIiCHC curls are waves of hair, in which ornaments are placed at intervale. A loose French twist, brought from the back of the head, mingles with these waves, and ha 3 ita ends terminating in soft curls, the whole effect being as graceful as it irj artistic. Powder is, of course, a necessity, and imparts much softness to the features and brilliancy to the eyes ; but in returning to this mode, which fell into disuse a hundred years ago, hairdressers are avoidir.g all the eccentricities which prevailed at that time. Apropos of collars, I see that a new one has beau introduced and named " The Peril" by Mrs. Langtry. It is a high all round liueu collar ou a small habit shirt; it fastens at the back invisibly, one end being slipped through a tape loop on the inside ; iu front it turns back with t.vo corners or revera, still leaving the throat covered aud the lino round the collar unbroken. The collar is well shaped, and specially adapted for wearing with dresses that arc slightly cut down iu front,