THE LADIES COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXII, Issue 7222, 10 January 1885, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE LADIES COLUMN.

FASHION NOTES.

Amber is coming into fashion for jewellery both in London and on the Continent. It is a trying colour, and amber is associated by most people with babies and their necklaces. ,7. " Tho new cutaway, jackets resemble very closely those worn by gentlemen. They are made of all kinds of fine clothtan, grey, and black being the popular shades. They are tight-fitting in the back and loose in the front, buttoning with large pearl cf silver buttons, and are made both single or: doublebreasted./

Among the revivals of old ' fashions, bretelles are seen again, and are liked now, as they give an appearance of the long, slender waist which is now in favour. These are simply re vera that pass up e*ch side of the front, cross over the shoulders, and go down the back, they taper to a point at the waist line. Astrakhan borders many of the new tailormade jackets: These are made short and dark. Neapolitan red cloth is in much request for them, but the choice of this colour renders it necessary to select only ouch costumes and bonnets as may properly be worn in conjunction, unless, of course, the wardrobe admits of many changes. Laced stockings are new this season, and are liked by those who object to garters. _ A slit is made down the front of the stocking from the top to the knee, and this is strengthened by a facing and laced with a smooth lacing string. This lace draws the stocking snugly about the limb above the knee, and prevents it from slipping down. Plush wraps are very popular for evening wear. One of the prettiest recently imported was of pale amber _ plush, ribbed in dark brown, made capewise and lined throughout with white plush. Long ends of brown satin ribbon held it at the neck and waist. This is used for an opera and carriage wrap, and is both warm and pretty. < Ribbons are as important a feature as ever in dress adornings, and certainly suoh gay chiffons impart a certain airy grace to the toilet which cannot well be overlooked in the formation of a real " telling" costume. A dress nowadays with the floating ends and chic butterfly bows left off looks as much of an " unfinished work" as if the sleeves or the buttons had been forgotten. A GIRL ON CORSETS. "A Girl Graduate" makes the following observations on Oscar Wilde's criticism of female wearing apparel:—" I am gratified to have been—at least in part—the means of evoking some interesting observations from Mr. Oscar Wilde's pen, but as I note also that an unpleasing asperity has been elicited in other quarters by my remarks,-perhaps you will kindly permit me space to explain myself on the all-important subject of corsets. I am wholly of Mr. Oscar Wilde's opinion that all raiment should depend from the shoulders. That is, of course, the opinion of every intelligent and educated person who has thought about the matter. But garments thus suspended are not, I, think, strictly speaking, petticoats. A petticoat, as the word is popularly understood, signifies a skirt hung from the waist. Therefore, I said, and still maintain, that such garments need a corset to make them comfortable. But I laid stress on the fact that corsets need not necessarily be 'boned.' I wear no whalebones myself, neither in my stays nor in my dress. They are, I believe, quite needless, except, perhaps, as a support for very stout elderly ladies, or for overgrown girls with * weak backs.' But if we are to abandon altogether the practice of wearing waistbands in favour of suspending our raiment from the shoulder, it will, I submit, be necessary to modify radically the prevalent fashion of exposing the neck and arms in evening assemblies, for a mere strap of lace or velvet such as that now commonly worn over the shoulder at dinners and balls would not suffice to conceal the sleeves required to suspend the linen or flannel clothing beneath the outer dress. Arms and bosoms will undoubtedly have to be more covered than the present ' full dress' costumes permit, if we are to reform our petticoats. Far be it from me to depreoate such reform; I wish only to point out all that it involves. Fashionable ' low' dresses have no place in my own wardrobe, and I am always sorry when I see them worn." CHIT-CHAT. I Baroness Burdett-Coutta is in failing health | and rarely enters society. | • " What two beautiful children ! Are they twins?" said an old bachelor to an Austin lady with two children. "Oh, yes, they are twins," replied the lady. "Excuse my curiosity, madame, but are you the mother of bjth of them?" '• What on earth have they been trying to do to the meridian ?" exclaimed Mrs. Ram, horrified. " Good gracious! if they are going to alter that, what will become of the equator? My dear, I'm an old fashioned woman, and I hold with its being positively wicked to move your ancient landmarks." A bevy of girla was looking at a bridal trousseau. " How exquisite!" " How lovely 1" " How supremely sweet I" &0.,~ad nauseam, were the exclamations' made. "You ought to be very happy, Clara," said one of the girls to the bride-elect. " I suppose I ought," said Clara, " but papa won't bring a newspaper reporter to look at them." Chorus : " What a shame 1" At the marriage of the Marquis of Stafford to Lady Millicent St. Clair Erskine, in London, the bridesmaids ranged in age from five to thirteen years. Their dresses were composed of white duchesse silk, with full pimpadour tunics and baby bodices with short sleeves to the elbows ; and the effect of these little maidens dressed in nothing but the purest white from cap to stockings was greatly set off by the rich costumes of tho grown-up company. Velvet was mostly worn and red and violet tints prevailed. The Princess of Wales wore a dress of black velvet brocade. Her bonnet was of black lace, a jged with jet beads, and its only trimming was a bunch of soft ostrich feathers in crushed strawberry. > Crinolette was nowhere to be seen. It is said that very quiet eyes, which impress and' embarrass one with their repose, signify not only self-command, but also much complacency and some conceit. Restless eyes that cannot look one steadily in the face denote a deceitful, designing mind. Fyes in which the white has a yellowish tinge and is streaked with reddish veins, prove much of strong passion and hasty temper. Very blue bespeak a mind inclined to coquetry. Grey eyes signify dignity, intelligence, and excellent reasoning faculties! Greenish < eyes falsehood and a fondness for scandal. A malicious mind is often indicated by greeuii eyes. Black eyes show a passionate, lively temperament, and oftentimes a must deceitful disposition. Brown eyes are generally tender and true, indicating a kind and happy disposition. ,HER OPINION. . " Alas, how (light a cause may move Dissensions between hearts tuat love." Two dear, darling bosom friends, ladies of course, Who hattd each other, and kissed when they met, Chanced a few days ago, in a milliner's shop, To meet, when said one, "Oh, my pet, " l'have bought a new bonnet, a love of a • duck, ■' And some beautiful ribbon and lace— I want you' to say how it ought to be trimmed In the best way to match with my face." "My angel," the bosom friend sweetly replied, " My opinion you'll quickly obtain— If you want it trimmed so as to match with your face, You should trim it decidedly plain." [And now those bosom friends pass as strangers in the street.] . The telephone night girl was talking love to 311, her beat fellow living there and keepiug up the other end of the conversation, when there came a hurried ring from 37, which is the residence of a highly respected citizen. "Hello!" she replied, after ringing a reply. "Hello 1 Give me Slay cow'B butcher shop, if you please." "Do you mean Mr. Slaycow's abattoir ?" " Yes, if you vyant to have it in high-toned language." • 'AH right, here it is." "Hello, Slaycow 1" "Hello 1" " What was in that sausage you sold me" this evening Meat." " Well, it made ns all sick. Yon must have used bad meat in it." The girl was listening, and at this moment switched on the custodian of the city pound, who was making his report for the day to the chief of police, and the poundmaster said, "Well, it is all right, It is as good as any in the state. We put a calf, two pigs ; and fifteen dogs in to-day." No. 37 hung up his receiver and went out to gag, and nobody but . the telephone girl , knows why Slaycow i.had to make an, assignment within a week, and she never told anybody but the Through Mail, and she communicated the facts to it in strict confidence,