OUR TRIP TO THE SOUNDS.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXI, Issue 6936, 9 February 1884, Page 1 (Supplement)

OUR TRIP TO THE SOUNDS.

[By an Aucklander.]

The good ehip Tarawera, Captain Sinclair in command, being all ready, left Port Chalmers for the Sounds on Wednesday afternoon, 9th of January, with 110 excursionists on board. These had come, not only from all parts of New Zealand, but some from Sydney, Melbourne, Tasmania, and even England and Scotland were not unrepresented. Many of these wero professional ladies and gentlemen seeking necessary relaxation and recreation after a long course of fatiguing and exhaustive labour; and most certainly they could not have made a wiser selection when choosing a trip to the Sounds as a means of spending a thorough holiday. The medical profession came largely to the front, allopathy and homepopathy being both represented by well-known professors of each. A considerable number of sohoolteachera helpsd to make up tho number of excursionists, including at least two "sweet girl graduates" of looal and colonial fame. Tho moat popular of tho professionals, however, was the pianist, Mr. A. J. Towsey, of Duaedin, who throughout the wholo trip waa indefatigable in his exertions to promote biirmonions amusement. After a somewhat rough paasage from the Bluff, Preservation Inlet was entered at four p.m. on Thursday, and immediately the ship was in smooth water, allowing those %vho had been compelled to remain in enforced seclusion to roappear and once more enjoy the light of day. As the ship proceeded on her progress up the Sound, everyone was enthusiastic in praise of the picturesque beauty of the scenes continually opening up. Tho hills here are not remarkaole for their height, but they are clothed with verdure to the water's edge. Numerous 1 waterfalls presented, themselves, none very largo, but all adding to the charm and variety of the scenery ; and in every direction small islands were to bo seen, with miniature breakers here and. there. As soon as the anchor was down for the night fishing \v»s all the " go," and immediately the docks were alive with blue cod, butterfish, and other varieties, all of which made a welcome and most delicious addition jto the breakfast- table on the following "morning. After dinner, the evening was spent in social enjoyment, Bongs and readings, as well as whist and cribbage, helping to pass away the time. The next morning brought a most die astrous change. There was heavy and con - t nuous rain and long faces. The tonsorialprofessor, who had his quarters on the foredeck, mnsfc have had a weary time of it that morning, and should have charged at least a double foe, for certainly he had twice the usual surface on which to operate. However, in spite of weather, many of the younger people made up their minds to do their duty. They had come to explore tbe Sonnds, and explore they would. It was rather ludicrous to see more than one party start off with extended umbrellas, almost hiding the boat from view, but all in good spirits, and with hopes that the clerk of the weather would presently be more propitious. But the showery weather lasted all day, with short intermissions, and greatly marred the pleasure of the excursionists, who returned wet, cold, and disappointed. Dry clothing and a good dinner, however, soon changed this feeling, and moet of them put in an appearance at the grand ball held on the upper deck in the evening. Here they were quite sheltered from the weather, and were ablo to thoroughly enjoy themselves in the gay and festive scene.

Next day we got along to Dusky Sound, which really deserves its name. Here the mountains are much higher, some reaching to the height of 4000 feet, but their peaks were enveloped in mist almost black. On the lower hills the foliage is as profuse as in the former sound, but those in the backgronnd present rocky and barren slopes, peaks covered with .enow, with here and there a small glacier lying in a hollow. The characteristic feature of Dneky Sound is its possession of numerous waxerfalls. They are indeed practically innumerable. Eleven were counted on the- side- of one hill, eighteen on another, and many are remarkable for the immense volumes of water they continually poor into the Sound below. Dusky Sound is far more beautiful than Preservation Inlet, and is .formed on a much grander scale. A3 we refiirned, heavy rain again fell, but even under this depressing aspect there is a gloomy magnificence which forces itself even on the least imaginative mind. A quiet Sunday was spent in Dusky Sound. Divine service was conducted in the social hall of the vessel, a very able and willing choir under Professor Towsey, making it bright and cheerful. The next day Doubtful Sound was reached, but the wet weather still continued. Heavy, pouring, pitiless rain made everything and everybody uncomfortable ; thero was not a dry place in the ship except the engineroom. It .was arranged to hold a, regatta when George Sound was reached on Tuesday, and a subscription of £15 was Boon raised to carry on the sports; but the event did not come off, the continuous rain prevented any attempts to make oven a commencement. While lying in Caswell SonDd a terrific thunderstorm, accompanied with hail, was experienced, and Captain Sinclair and his crew had some hours of considerable anxiety. The Tarawera dragged hor anchor, and fears were entertained at one time that she might drift ashore. Good seamanship, however, prevented this catastrophe, and perhaps it was well that only a few of the excursionists knew how imminent had been their danger.

Of course tho beauty oE the Sounds conld not be thoroughly realised undor circometarices such as these, but all admitted that much could be forgiven (and almost forgotten) when, reaching Milford Sound, tho clouds partially dispersed and tho sun once more shone forth. Milford is altogether different from the general run of the Sounds. It is thoroughly environed with mountains, somo risiug to 5000 and 6000 feet above the level of tho sea, in perpendicular height, from the very edge of the water. In proceeding up the Sound it seemed as though Titanic masons had cut a passage through the rocks. Immense waterfalle of much grandeur were continually opening up until the head of tha Sound was reached, when tho great " Uowen" fall of 550 feot appeared in sight. Here tho water falls precipitously over great rocks into a large basin about 30 or 40 feet below, and is then ejected down the cliffs into the Sound. Several glimpses of the Mitro Peak were obtained, and this double-headed mountain received a great doal of attention whenever tho envious clouds allowed its wonderful formation to bo observed. Here, too, the opportunity presented itself to the visitors oE seeing the largest glacier that hnd yet come under their notice. The fields of ice cover an immense area, and some idea of tho gigantic misses could be obtained by observations oE those parts where largo blocks had fallen into tho precipitous valleys beneath. It is almost impossiblo to describo the solemn grandeur and even awe-inspiring magnificence of many parts of Milford Sound. In looking into some of ita deep and apparonUy fathomless gorgee, one is tempted to imagine them as the homes of tho storm fiends, which appear for over to reign with undisputed oway over the whole region of tho Sounds. Everything is on the largest, grandest scale ; tho precipitous heights, the cloud-capjied mountain peaks, covered with perpetual snow, the deep dark-looking gorges, tho apparently inaccessible icefields, all appear to defy approach and close inspection.