THE LADIES' COLUMN. FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XX, Issue 6763, 21 July 1883, Page 3 (Supplement)

THE LADIES' COLUMN. FASHION NOTES.

; Perfumed artificial flowers are used to trim ' Parisian ball dresses. The simple and tasteful dresses of ecrn linen batiste once so pjpular are again '• imported, with embroiderry on the material ■ for the trimming and green satin ribbon rosettes for looping the drapery. Terra cotta and strawberry shades have become so commonly worn that fashionable ladies have discarded them except for straw bonnets, summer bats, parasols, and the smaller fancies of the toilet, such as ribbon bows for collars, stockings, and slippers. Jersey polonaises of tine wool webbing form part of mountain and seaside dresses. They may be either of the same or a contrasting colour to that of the skirt, which is of flannel in triple box-pleats, so wide that not more than five are needed for the whole width of the skirt. White cheviot dresses will be much worn j at summer hotels for morning and afternoon dresses. They hive collar, vest, cuffs, and an apron-like scarf of chaudron olive-green or lapis lazuli blue velvet. They are tailormade in simple designs with a pleated skirt, hsb t basque, and draped overskirfc. Black lace is used to trim strawberry, blue, and olive dresses of Chinese silks that are made up with many flounces on the skirt, short, full pannier drapery and shirred basque, with the pointed neck edged with very full lace frills ; a puff and frill of lace are on the sleeves below the elborf. A mastic or putty-coloured foulard silk of the twilled kind called serge foulard is trimmed with ecru silk embroidery and strawberry-red velvet. The bodice is crossed in front to the left side, fastening there with a velvet bow, and there is velvet mixed in with the large and bouffant bow at the back.

WOMAN AS MAN'S EQUAL. In a certain sense, woman is undoubtedly an equal of man. In another sense, in which equality is meant to imply similarity, undoubtedly she is not, for woman is not like to man. Were she like to him, "sweet love were slain," says the poet. Let us, then, endeavour to get at least a little clearer idea of those differences that appear in the female sex, and in order to lead you up to the comprehension of the subject, let me suggest to you the question : Why is it that society demands of custom and taste that the intended husband should make the first advance toward the intended wife, and why it should not be the opposite ? Why woman should be wooed by man and not him by her ? I hear it said that man is the protector of woman, and that, therefore, he who confers the benefit should be the one to make the first advances. But if this were the true explanation of the matter, I, for one, do not see why it should be wrong for one who needs protection to ask for it. Is it not something charming for one who needs help to go up to one who is able to give it, and say: "I need your help, confidence, and love." It is said that man is the support of woman. It seems to me if we are to consider who does more for the other, the husband for the wife or the 'wife for the husband, we are entering on a very delicate subject, and that it would be very difficult, in justice and impartiality, to say which side the scale dips. It appears to me that the real explanation of this matter is not to be found in the fact that man is the protector of woman, but rather in the fact that he is the admirer of woman. The bond of admiration is that which makes the first union between the lovers. The first glance of admiration that passes from the eye of the man to tho loveliness of the woman may be compared to that first wire that was cast from shore to shore, a thin wire hardly visible, and then around this wire other wires were woven, until at last a strong cable was formed to which the bridge was attached, which the people of either shora would pass over and meet each other in uabroken communication. If the bond of admiration is thus begun, it makes the first connection that leads to wedlock ; then it is plain why it is proper for man, and not for woman, to propose the union. For admiration, to be genuine, must not be asked for; it must come spontaneously. The woman might go to her protector and say, "Protect me," but she cannot go to her admirer and say, " Admire me."

CHIT-CHAT. " Are you any relation to my sister ?" He blushed and stammered until the young lady, taking pity on him, solved the matter by saying, "No, but he'd like to be—wouldn't you, Alfred 1" A young man sent bis sweetheart a bouquet, and she thus wrote him:—"Oh, the permeating aroma of that altogether too lovely exuberance of nature inflated my efflatus and kindled in my soul a passion that time cannot obliterate." The dudine is the name applied to the female dude. The dudine wears a mashed gooseberry coloured hat and a high collar, and her clothes are made to fit tight. She carries a sharp-pointed parasol in lieu of the dude cane, and is often accompanied by an English pug terrier. The bridegroom at his wedding-breakfast is thus photographed by the Saturday Review :—"No man remembers much about his own wedding-breakfast. He sits selfconscious, in glittering raiment and tight new boots, observed by curious bridesmaids, in the midst of a hostile people. Surely a man's bride's relations are even now a hostile people. They are strange., they are critical; their words and ways grate on the nerves of the doomed one. Among many other relics of the savage period speeches are made." "Now, children, said Mrs. Shoddy, as she finished staining their lips and chins with rouge—"now, children, after you are out a little while yoa must ring Mrs. Envious' bell and pretend you've come to play with her little daughter. If she asks you what made tho red stains on your, face, tell her you had strawberries for dinner. There," she muttered, when the children were out of sight, "there, 1 guess she'll be blind with envy when she thinks I Lave been able to buy strawberries at Is 8d a pint." Says a lady correspondent ofLondonSpectator :—"There must be no half-measures, no promising with viciouti fashions. We are comtold that all shoes should have flat soles and broad toes; that all waists should be as guiltless of restraint as that of the Medician Venus; that sleeves should be roomy, skirts straight, and bonnets fit to protect the head effectually from sun and wind, and a great many other things which I, for one, should like to see exemplified, not only on the persons of young and pretty girls, who look well in anything, but on the more mature ladies who have hitherto done the talking and writing, and who are, naturally, the persons to show the world tho excellence of a new way. The winds were whispering low and the sentinel stars had set their watches, if they have any to set, up in the skies, as Mrs. Tomly leaned from her chamber window and asked in a low and trembling voice, " Is that you, Henry ?" Now, it is a peculiarity of Mr. Tomly that when under the influence he has great difficulty in finding his home. He was once arrested as a burglar, and several times kicked out, so when ho heard the female voice say, "13 that you, Henry ?" he said, '"Fore I ansher that question I'd like I ter know if that's you, Sharah?" holdug on to the front gate 3nd leering up at Sarah's chamber window. "Why, certainly, Henry, it is me." "Is this corner of Austin Avenue and B-street?" "Why, of course it is, Henry." "Then," said Henry, indignantly, as he swayed up against the fence, " of course it's me. What yer ask fool questions for ? Don't you know your husband ?" TIIE COUNTESS OP LTJNN. " I won't deny that I love you, Ned— Ilad you asked mo sooner you might have won ; I had another offer today, And now—l think I'll bo Countess of Ounn. " I was alwavs fond of titles, you know; And oh ! Ned, won't it be jolly fun, When away off yonder on British shores, To know you are loved by the Countess of Lunn ?" " Tis hard to lose you, my only love," Ho sadly whispered and gently sighed; "When the London season recalled us homo, i had hoped to make you my bonny bride." For a moment silence reipned supreme On the moonlit slopes of the " castled Rhino ;" And two hearts 'neath the silv'ry starry beam With the flow of tho restless waves kept time. Said ho : " For a nobleman's title I'm spurned, But I swear I'll not lead a bachelor's life ; Now tell mo of all your • dear girl friends,' Which think you will make me the fittest wife? " Now, there's Mabel lUnd, with her coal-black eyes, And hair like the glint of a raven's wing; 'Twonld be nice at the theatre, opera, ball, To call her my own—the darling thing. "What's that you're saying? 'A saucy flirt?' I always thought you admired her stylo ! Ah ! now I have it—your dearest friend, That sweet little fairy, Bessio Lisle. "'Twill bo swoct through the leafy woods to roam Whon tho sunlight dies in the crimson west; Her soft gold riucleta my cheeks shall fan, And her rosobud lips to my own be prest. " No, no!" she cried with a startled look, As in wild despair to his arm sho clung; Then softly whispered. " Oh ! dearest Ned, / I think—l won't bo Countess of Luun!