WHANGAROA.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XIX, Issue 6296, 21 January 1882, Page 6

WHANGAROA.

THE MAORI GHOST—A TALE TOLD \ IN THE FOREST. ;

[BY " ENDYMION."] I

Bat railed From human observation, as if yot Primeval forejti wrapp'd thee round with dark. Impenetrable shade. —Wordsworth s Excursion. Whangaroa ia peculiarly the harhour of the hills. Their strange shapes, steep sides, and sharp peaks grandly overlook the calm water. From the configuration of the encircling ranges, and their broken, fantastic summits, in some places it seems that in their formation nature had a convulsion there. Geology only knows by what earthquakes and internal volcanic agency these strange hills were raised. Yet they are grand and beautiful, not a mere ruin after the earthquake or subterranean fire and violent irruption, for verdure decks their slopes or the great forest clothes their high forms, and only on prominent positions the projecting peaks are seen. The winds are hushed to rest in the inlet, the white clouds soar above the hills, and serenity reigns iu the valleys. Salvator Rosa would find his favourite subject there. Tliero is no particular township. The irregularity and steepness of the land do not admit of it; but there are various buildings on favourable positions, and conspicuously the saw-mills. The saw-mills are the life of industry at Whangaroa. The noble kauri flourishes there in size and quantity, and the inland creeks and the declivities favour its transition to the mills. In the history of the colony, Whangaroa is noted for the oft-told tale of the Boyd. Not far away from the islet that projects from the placid surface of the harbour the remains of the ill-fated vessel are sunk, and towards Kaeo, on a gloomy slope, is shown the place where the party from the vessel met their unexpected fate. How little that feeling of revenge which led to their death is modified now in the nature of the Maori! Inflict the same rod of corregtion, and the settlement is agitated demanding redress in the modem acceptable form of payment. There are several guns extant said to be from the Boyd—every old cannon about the' North is honoured with the legend. A narrow road around the shore leads to; Kaeo. Kaeo is the. fertile vale of Whanga-; roa. It is a scattered, though promising settlement. Above the winding road—a very interesting one—native trees occasionally projected overhead. The right was occupied with mud flats and large mangrove trees, forming a little wood. Several years ago this estuary and its surroundings was a lone spot, and among the mangroves was a famous resort for all the best feeding wild ducks of Whangaroa. At full tide a light boat could be taken with some obstacles among the gnarled trunks and over the twisted roots of the mangroves, if sportingtendencies led to a wild duck chase ; but now an excellent road and liridge cross the flat, which has in part become somewhat drained. There is a very pretty dwalling here—a model of the New Zealand settler's dwelling. The garden slopes to the water's edge, thi Christmas trees are clustering near, and there are some fiue orange and. citron trees visible, bearing to perfection? Above the vallej r , to the left, the bush is dense. In its recesses the natives formerly deposited the bones of the dead. It is a place characteristic of the purpose —a rough sepulchre of huge rocks, and dark shades within the archiug ferns, and palms, and the huge pi nris above. An awful' stillnesf, and gloom reigns there. The opposite range has been credited as auriferous, but probably it is a kindred reef of the Mangonui mine. Ido not believe it had yet the effect of raising a company and shares. Approaching Kaeo the various turns in the road reveal very pleasing views. A fewyears ago the dwellings were few there ; the straying cattle wandered by the green I auks of the river, and cropped the pasture between the numerous sweet-briar bushes. The strip of alluvial land by the stream, the tall and slender poplars on its bank, and one or two homesteads, and the hills enclosing the vale, enter into my first recollections of Kaeo. Now* there are signs of good progress in the settlement; the dwellings are many, and several are very elegant and ornamental. There are of course gardens, and a fair display of trees. The racecourse is situated in an excellent' position, and its scenery is New Zealandlike. At the back, several little hills rise abruptly above its level surface, and the crest of the principal one is crowned .with some fine kauri, whose peculiar foliage projects strikingly above the surrounding trees, and appears to advantage at that height. It wonld be difficult to see all Whangaroa in one day; like at Hokianga, you get a toat and visit each point of interest. Though in a secluded position, there is a very cosy hotel, agreeable to the traveller, and it is worthy of mention. It is below a steep bank, beside a narrow strip of shelly beach, gently laved by the tide, and is shaded by clusters of the pohutukawas. There is an unmistakeable air of repose and comfort about the place. The poultry wandered around, and from the kitchen "floated in the air a most savoury smell, suggestive of roast turkey. A passing view of that apartment confirmed the suspicion. On a dish, fried eggs, like huge daisies—golden balls within discs of silvery white—appeared. There were garnishing of salads, and other attractive circura3tances,„too numerous to come under notice in a hurried glance. Another satisfactory proceeding was a plentiful administering of corn to the horses. I saw a number of young men of superior appearance seated on the grassy bank beneath the trees, bearing a holiday air, and seemingly enjoying a day of rest. "They are distinguished visitors—swells"— remarked my guide. " They are tmshmen," replied the landlord. This unexpected information led to the reflection that iu these days of "modern progress" there is an amount of culture sustained throughoat the working-classes, and especially in this land •f anomalies, where frequently the scions of good families undertake, to them, unaccustomed pursuits. Their temporary home was away in the dense forest beside the lofty trees, or in the survey camp, and here they were spendiug a few days of cessation -from toil, and actually discussing literary topics, as merry and fraternal as Canadian woodsmen. The words of that lively song refer to them : Far through tha forest. Far o'er the mountains we'll find a home. We cannot dwell in crowded cities, We're straneers to the ways of trxtle, We loag to feel the grass txmath us, And ply the hatchet and the spade. " Come, Codrington," said one of his companions, "give us a story." Oinnes—"Yes,' but something we can believe. Do have a little consideration for our credulity, and do not overdraw the small stock left." " Well, gentlemen," replied Codrington, as he inserted a Christmas tree blossom in an almost useless button-hole at the top of his coat, "since you honour me with so much confidence, I will not abuse it, but comply. It is difficult to find anything new after our camp stories, but I have reserved this especially for your entertainment on a fitting occasion like the present. Remember, gentlemen, though truth, it is, in the words of Gray on the Bard, Truth severe, by fury fiction dxest. The title of my veracious tale is ' The Maori Ghost!'" Onines—"Draw it mild!" "It is a pity you did not know my old mate, Sam Clariker. He was a pleasant, goodnatured fellow, and we roughed it considerably in the bush, on the gamfields, or in the survey camp. One year we were stationed near Mount Taniwha, and a lonely time we spent on that inland range— Sun in the east at mornin', sun in the west at night, And the shadow of this Yer station the on'y thing mores in sight. Bret Harte, gentlemen. Yon see, I have it by heart." Omnes—"Continue, with all duo respects." "Well, Sam, in his loneliness, got very peculiar indeed, and kept talking about books, and longing for them. He procured Scott's works, and read like a student. One day, after he finished ' Old Mortality,' Sam set off for Mangonui with a pack-horse for provisions. He was a most extraordinary man for losing his way, and I would have gone, but I was incapacitated by a sore hand. 1 lent him my pocket compass, and gave him instructions, but he must have been thinking of 'Old Mortality.' When he arrived in Mangonui, Professor Eraser was lecturing on phrenology, and remarked to the audience that Sam had no idea of locality —scarcely enough to know where he was. Sam answered to the general satisfaction appropriately in the words of the great bard, All places that the eye of heaven visits Ait to a wise m&n ports aod happy havens. Returning, of course he was lost. It was somewhere about Mosquito Slope, cn the edge of a swamp, Sara, at nightfall, got doubtful about the direction. Thrice into the swamp ho went, and as many times_ returned to the original track, when, in view of surrounding darkness and unknown way, he resolved to'camp out.' His dormitory was a small patch of bush; his pillow, a bag of flour; his curtains, the fern, which did

n6t exclude mosquito* • RE the-saddle across hi» ij hi* Us warmth. Sam toN;l eiently to the calls of th» wekas. and. was going to sleep. Suddeni H excited bellow £f th e h " y swamp a chorus of morepo k?' rush of mosquitos, and a "d w^ll hailed by a ghost! That fi n, l B1 pale for a Maori. U cr L^ re *•«!?!* a ~b ony , hand to ola 4 Sami; fl whence he came and his £fe knowing the now l 1 ' 0 ". fi spirit, wondered S customs of the Maori atl d ?, ned tb, *1 suspicions of his ghostliness c!n J the spectre asked Ni,„ ,' c ' P ! tulI ¥ '■* [i a pause that a man in your used tobacco!' This remark- 1^I s,t, °n irritated the chost, and he , COnsid «=ft H my mate, and Sam, findin, ? Ppl -' 1 48 come gave in, stating h e ° l' mself til though skeletons, had more 'pisfe living men, and it was wpH f er tb, 1 As he had a blanket around p lhM > very flat-nosed, Sam thought 1, original appearance throun Uou 7 et^'!,? , Sam he was a great chip? „ wi~ land around, and was on 'hia^ 0 ' 1 s " tit * reinga to take his departure feV world. Indignant at Ram's . -T: tobacco, after a brisk encounter ,If ot 4"' on a pugilistic warfare as ' Vcr! t=>j marked, hitting him unfairly M--for he 'smote him hip and thigh ceeiled, to bain s astonishment feat, he placed him on a moa journey, which he took to be in ! first. The ghost bestrode anoihtt kM * the species, and, as they sped sivifi 1( -' bush and vale, the ghost sane Si\ '' f 1 strains of bis native land, as tV \| to keep other ghosts away fI,S° r arrived on the summit of Mo„„t T J where the moas were dismissed was seated on a jasper rock with 1 1,11 northwards and his back to the It!' 8 ? would like to have a sleep,' saiJ Sa 0,1 I fear, said the ghost. 'Ton make»i , 1 out and producing from aomcwhe! 4 -that black ami villainous piscatoryX and dismissed him due north. Sam in - saw the reinga, dark and terrible h.V yond the scopulous projection's shadel ' bright belt of light Within its effuW "i' > saw a spectre island, which he took IA, Three Kings, and said so. ■No L H iterated the Maori ghost. ' You m %£f look-out ' Looking towards the rcen'i I remarked the outlines of the laud Wt r coming defined, and saw thereon busiViß hills, and beach, and ac last descried ant of men on the shore. Sam asked whoV? were, and was informed they were the mittee—an indispensible body of aco i Maori community, whatsoever their may be—anil these men were cryinj. J! 'i welcome to a succession of brown formi.!.« were plunging into the watery ft the dismal Hades, and reappearing on & F shore of that fair island with eelsi Dt url hands. The committee rui bed offtheS k marks from every face so ornamented deface, gentlemen, each familiar lineaoar Prayers, of course, were the first proems'; in? ; then a war dance, and then a far H There was one indefatigable cook, n-jf supplies seemed endless, but at last he cci P not supply the general demand, and finA f* lie was swallowed up by a clamorous cbi jfi Then a court was held on the glutted f chief, and he was to fall a victim t«4il general voracity, when he sprang into a k empty cauoe with some fishing lines, paddled to Norfolk Island. 'Too uammon,'said the ghost, and Sam tlctA® beat to le of the same opinion. Aft'ri® feast there uprose from the people c- f---muring sound of voices, certifvn tV proverb, ' Where there is much io 1 o» is much talk.' A prophet aio a them, and said many things about In n doiugs to be fulfilled, ami announced expected coming of more ghosts afte.- £> * war, after which there was a gen tailing of pipes, and the island and i h bu.j were fast disappearing from view ina?ryli>': [or vapour. Sam, who was interested . L began to feel sorry that the scene \\a i«l, ing, and remonstrated, saying porta; i Governor would like to see them i now,' said tiie jjhost, 'you ha\enotu pleasure of knowing me.' 'I doiiifKic: you or one of your name,' replied sam 1 :zr au old woman I was acquainted ivithoiaf: spoke of your kind.' 'My name, thai'-: Old Mortality, and my time isdnesitb" reinga—adieu. But before I go, unrca oijj man, can you not infer from that impresari scene wlic these remarkable people atf k 'Well,' answered Sam, 'perhaps ticv a!: the Waikato tribes, or the Hauhai = \ fear,' said the ghost, they are the Lot:. Tribes.' " i Codrington declined to tell any more ate-t----the vision, saying that as the appearance s r ghosts was unexpected, so their depariKt was the same, and left the spectator mu4 certainty and don>-t; and, though lie ni| not a Spiritualist, he had the pleasure of pt; counting Sam's adventure. He stated ta: Sam awoke from his trance with the womDo T dream, do I doubt? 3sTiKions-abont? -■ Is onr civilisation a failure, Or is ilie Caucasian played oat: I must conclude with the hills the ps points of interest at Whangaroa. TliseS remarkable are St. Paul's, theTaratara,tithe strange projection on the cliff the profile of tie "Iron Duke." InvafiM parts of the world are these curious IKb : whose outlines represent the'featureso< .-j3 , notable personage. High above the eti, a. ■ a cli'T, tiie passenger on the steamer with interest that familiar face of rsl which would be more appropriate at ft '■ entrance of Tort Nicholson leading to fft -. lington. J; The grand and singular prominence ci-| Taratara rises in an almost square, scoputo': • mass of perpendicular sides from a ta: [s. slope: In the distance it looks like*BP| medieval csstle, with dark, frowning, vst |- sive walls, irregular from the effects of ts f. and assaults of the waves. There are,»| course, some native traditions attached W | and there is especially a saying amonj the Maoris, which may furnish i l»y to farmers in long droughts, that oil »®f ; | ascending its summit rain will fall* also stated that there are quantities of g® >5 powder concealed there, but no one can® j; where this magazine is situated. Itre®ic3| one of the same report about the cras" , | "Waiomlo. The dome-shaped summit of St. a singular feature in the scene. the side, that tbe effect of seeing grazing on the height is strange w ;j from the deck of the lona at the wtj*. The top is the shape of an inverted cap,' around the peak there is a flock of £<" - almost as m ild as the chamois. . ;! The native came Whangaroa means, l ,; been told by authorities, a " long I? 0 *" ,(; owing to perhaps the expected V ' SI ;. j. i; war-partv; and it is probable tint *.. u, ! fenders in possession of that for™' | position would have to await a consii c j time the approach of a foe. And so ,n j i olden days, when a Maori's hie was : warfare, a bellicose band of w; :l: n0r !', I) 3! ). | '■ their patience ejhausted in futile p | tions for strife, gave, in that import"!, jj f : the ancient name to the now P CJl ' e ; dustrious vales and hills of Whangaro. •