OVERLAND FROM NAPIER TO AUCKLAND. No. I.

New Zealand Herald, Volume X, Issue 2909, 26 May 1873, Page 3

OVERLAND FROM NAPIER TO AUCKLAND. No. I.

We aro enabled to compile the following interesting narrative of the overland journey from Napier to Auckland, from notes supplied by Mr. John Sheehan, M.H.R. I left Napier on the morning of the 30th of April, in company with Mr. Wm. Kelly, M.H.R., who was proceeding to his own residence at Opotiki, in tho Bay of Plenty. We wero well mounted, and kept the mailcoach road, formed at very great expense and skill by tho Government, out of the vote for roads and works in the North Island. The first stage wo reached was Pohui, about thirty miles from Napier. To give an idea of the nature of tho country, and the difficulty in road construction, I may state that we crossed tho Esk river thirty-two times beforo reaching Pohui. Tho following evening we arrived at Tarawera. Tho road to l'arawera is in good order, and considering the extraordinary difficulty of construction, creditable to the Government engineer. It is carried over a summit, at an elevation of 1500 feet, and for four-and-a-half miles it descends, by a series of zig-zag?, to the level of the sea at Tarawera. The naturo of the soil is sucli that very little metalling is required. Tho road is made through sandntono and limestone formations, and is ready for traffic as soon us it is formed. Mr. Bold was tho engineer in charge of this line of road. The country between Napier and Tarawera is very broken for the greater part of the distance, which is about fifty miles. It is not only mountainous, but tho spurs are scooped out in all directions and. intersected by deep ravines, evidently caused by (ho action of water. It will all bo a good sheep country as settlement progresses. There is very little occupation of the country beyoud Pohui. On several points along tho road to Tarawera very Cue views are obtained. Tarawera is tho first military post on the line in tho occupation of the Armed Constabulary. A redoubt has been built, and is held by a detachment of about twenty-five men, under tho command of Sub-Inspectors Withers and Watts. The redoubt is peculiarly situated in a natural basin Or valley, while around tower the huge mountains, their summits crowned with snow and sides covered by dense forest treeß. It was the prospect from this redoubt that sent Governor Bowen into ecstucies about Alpine scenery, as per published despatches. In the valley "there are one or two hot springs. A store, a hotel, and two or three other buildings mark the progress of settlement. The hotel was recently burned down, but a new one was near completion when we passed through. Travellers Cud accommodation at the store, which is kept by Hart and McKinley, the coach proprietors, and contractors for the carriage of military Btores and supplies to the posts along the line. Tarawera is the first Btage of tho coach, which runs in the winter once a week each way, from Napier to Taupo Lake. The through fare is £2. The coach is well hoi' Bed, the drivers are civil, and the utmost attention is paid to the comfort of passengers. The General Government pay a subsidy of £1,200 a year for the carriage of mails, and to keep the line open;—money well spent and honestly earned. The river Mohuka ie croseed about fifteen miles from Tarawera, on the up journey. This is a bold, deep stream, with steep precipitous banks, and at the time we crossed it was flooded. It rises in the Kaimanawa and Rualiine ranges, and receives the waterß of several tributary streams. Tho rirer runs at tho bottom of a ravine, at a depth of about 150 feet from the surface. The soil is a soft shingle and pumice formation, and this moun tain torrent is fast cutting out a deep channel for itself. This is the character of all the rivers north of Tarawera to Taupo Lake and tho Waikato basin. We saw the coach crossed at the Mohaka ford on a canoe. The horses and passengers wore first ferried over, and lastly the coach. There is a strong wire chain across, the stream, and a canoe serves the purpose of a punt in use in more civilised countries. The sight was rather grotesque, however. From Tarawera we made Opepe, a distance of about 27 miles, passing tho second military station, Kuninga, about twelvo milea from Tarawera. Runauga station is in charge of Sub-Inspector Gudgeon, who has about twenty-five men under him, employed principally on the road. The men appear to be healthy, and in good spirits. The country between Tarawera and Ruuanga is very mountainous, tho road skirting the ranges, the sides of which aro covered with bush. The heavy rains had occasioned several land slips, and the Armed Constabulary were employed clearing the road. These slips disclosed the existence of valuable building stone, samples of which have been tried.

Shortly after leaving Runanga a view is had of the great plains of Kaingaroa, stretching out like a vast sea for about thirty-fire miles —a dead level, covered with tussock-grass, and realising something of the idea one forni3 of the prairies of America from reading of them. About a mile and a half from Runanga, after crossing two or three pumice ridges, the flat land, extending on to Opepe, opens. It is pumice, covered with tussock-grass, and would carry cattle. Seven miles from Runauga we passed through part of the late Captain St. Ge.rge's run. This officer, it will be recollected, fell in a skirmish with Te Kooti's people. Hart and McKinlejj coach proprietors, are ploughing about ten acrea of the ground, and intend sowing it in grass for feed for their horses. It is the first experiment in cultivation in this district. The ploughman employed is of opinion that it will curry excellent grass. If so, the value, of theso vast pumice plains will bo enhanced a thousand fold. To the left the country is hilly and wooded for some miles, and retains the same character to the south-west and southern shores of Luke Taupo.

At Opepe we stopped at the Armed Constabulary station, which is the head-quarters of the Taupo line. A redoubt has been built close by the site of the fatal skirmish between the Opotiki and Taurauga troopers (under Captain Smith) and Te ICooti, and for his service in which that officer was awarded the New Zealand cross. We visited the spot, accompanied by two of the survivors of the nflair—one a European, the other a native— who freely communicated their recollection of the occurrence, and were on the best terms. It appears that the troopers hud just ridden up from the coast, picketed their horses, and constructed a few whares and breakwinds, when they were surprised by Te Kooti, their horses and accoutrements captured, and ten or eleven killed. Those who escaped took to the bush, and succeeded in getting away, after incredible sufferings. Mr. Smith had the hardest time of it, having been over a week in the bush. The site of the encampment was ill-chosen. It was in a ravine, surrounded on all sides by dense bush, through which the natives could approach without detection. Te Kooti sent two of his people to the camp to engage tho men in friendly conversation while lie made his preparations for attack. Tho Cavalry had no sentry posted ; and they wero shot down where they stood or lay—some in their whares, others cooking. They had not time to seize their arms, so complete was the surprise. Thus, the first pursuit of Te Kooti, after his escapo from the Chatham Islands, was turned into a disastrous revorse. Our dead are buried in two graves, which are neatly fenced and painted by the Armed Constabulary, and two tombstones tell the names and fate of those who rest below. It is not known if any natives were killed. Our native informant, who was very communicative, said that none of them were hurt. Wo met the greatest attention and civility at this station ; and, indeed, generally it may be said that the lino from Tai'po to Napier would not bo tolerable to travel but for tho attention and kinduess of the officers and men of the Armed Constabulary. (To be continued.)