JOURNAL

New Zealander, Volume 2, Issue 58, 11 July 1846, Page 3

JOURNAL

Kept by two British Officers, on their Overland Route from Wellington to Auckland. — 1846. (Concluded from our last.)

April 16. Went over to Pakeika and saw the native church now building of totara wood ; it will be 64 fe et by 34 feet. They are building a much larger one at Pikirike, of brick, which is a novelty in New Zealand architecture, There are about 800 natives at these two settlements, and about 4,000 along the course of the Wanganui river, most of them are missionary natives. 17.— Halted. The natives along the banks seem to have abundance of provisions, judging from the quan-

titles they supplied to the Taupo people all the way, far at every halt, they had as many pumpkins, kumeras, vegetable marrow, and potatoes, as they could eat, which, considering that they are not on friendly terms with the Wanganui natives in general, is very praiseworthy, but they say themselves, that they are told in Scripture to feed their enemies. 18._ The people of the pah gave a feast to our natives, who consisted of about one hundred men, women, and children, and after gorging themselves with pork, they left the pah; and went about two miles/Jand then halted on a hill over Pa-te-areko, on the way to Taupo, where we bivouacked for the night. IJNh.— Moved on about a mile, when a report reached us that a war party had arrived from the Waikato country, to join Rangiheata, when our natives halted to hear the news. They told us that two hundred men had come down to the river to drive all the pakehas from Wellington; to which, of course, we gave the credit that maori stories generally deserve. We then went about a mile further into the wood and halted. 20th.— Had an early start and got fairly into the dreary wood, leading to Taupo. The path was hardly visible, and we were compelled to resort to creeping, rather than walking, as the wood was full of vine or supple jack, which obliged us to look out for both head and feet; besides, tremendous hills were to be ascended, and ravines descended, so with difficulty we got about eight miles. 21st— Heavy rain all day and night. Had to send back some men to get more provisions as there was a likelihood, of us being stopped at a river on account of a flood. Our gun was a good friend to us, and pigeons Were both fat and plentiful. 22nd.— Men not returned with provisions on account of the heavy rain. A pipe that was lit at a fire kindled by the old chief became immediately " tapu, " and no one would smoke out of it. A boy in scraping up the ground found a large earth worm, about eight inches long, which he was proceeding to cook, when it was snatched from him by an old woman who immediately put it on the fire, and when well frizled, doubled it up in four pieces, and ate it with great relish, saying it was excellent food, which all the others agreed to. The large white grubs in rotten wood they also eat wherever they come across them. 23rd.— Heard this day that our friends that came from Otiki had robbed us of sixty sticks of tobacco. One of them, a chief who we had named " red blanket," came into our warre, when we taxed him with it before a number of natives and told him his behaviour was anything but chieftain-like. He seemed very much ashamed and slunk off. The men came back in the afternoon with provisions, when we ascended a high range to the north-east, the path still of the same rugged nature. From the top of one of the hills, we had a view of Tongariro, capped with snow, at seven miles distance. Halted at the bottom of a deep ravine, the ground was very damp from the continued dripping of the trees. 24-th.— Crossed a deep and rapid stream, six yards wide, by means of a large tree laid across, and then ascended a precipice, and got to the top of a range which leads towards the north. Three miles further on, arrived at the edge of a deep ravine, with a small rivulet at the bottom, where the path joins from Ikurangi, and becomes rather better for four miles on to the Manguiwero which is thirty yards wide, full of large stones, and very rapid, and which very little flood would make impassable. Passed through some small patches of fern and grass and halted in the wood. 25th.— Heavy rain. The maories went out pig hunting, but only killed a small one ; some of them got lost in the wood, on which there was firing of guns kept up all day : 'they returned in the evening. 26th.— Our march this day was very disagreeable on ' account of the wetness of the wood and the slippery path. We walked ahead of our people, and got on too far, as t!iey did not come up at dusk, however three other maories came up, belonging to the party that came from Otdki with us, who built a warre, lit a fire, cooked potatoes and two Kaka we had shot, and also lent us blankets, so we were not so badly oft; although wet to the ! skin. We marched about sixteen miles this day. 27th.— After three miles walking, to our delight we got outside the wood onto the "mania," or grassy plain. Tongariro now in full view, covered with snow half way down. The mania has evidently been cleared away by m-e, as the blackened stumps of trees are still to be seen in some places ; it is covered with grass of a sour coarse description, and some fern, but not a tree to be seen, nor any birds, exceptnowandthena lark. About three miles from the wood we crossed the Tokorua river, about knee deep, which rims through the centre of the plain. At about eighteen miles from the wood we halted for the night, at the foot of Tongariro, on the banks of the Wangaehu which is here a mere rivulet. The "mania" appeared to be-from four to fifteen miles broad, bounded by a range of low hills on the right, and on the left by a thick forest 28th. — At; a mile from the river we came to a dreary tract at the base of the mountain, covered with shingle and large blocks of stone and scoria. Two small streams of whitish colour were running down from the mountain which we had the curiosity to taste and found them Stiongly impregnated with sulphuric acid. The natives shewed us a place where they said a large number of maories were frozen to death. They also said the snow sometimes lay five feet deep there. We went for about seven miles along this waste, which is intersected with several beds of water courses, which, when the snow melts in spring, would become dangerous torrents. Came to some stunted heathy shrubs, an arrived at Waikohororu, about fourteen miles fiom our last halting place, amidst pelting rain. Crossed the river and halted for the night 29th.— After an hour's walk, we got tbe first view of Taupo lake, from the hill over Mangatawai river. It is very like the Bay of Islands, coming from Waimate to Kiri Kiri. Fifteen miles from Waikohorua, over grassy plains and small hills, brought us to Rotorua lake. We crossed over a small river to the pah ".Poita." There appeared 'to "beieighty or a hundred inhabitants, who formerly bore a bad name, but as .they were building a church, it is to be presurued they are mending their manners. The natives informed us, on our avrival, that there was a sick pakeha -lying in a warre, and on our proceeding there we found Mr. C n, a settler of Wangarua, who had come up to see Taupo, before going to England. He anxiously inquired if we had got any medicine, and was dreadfully disappointed when we told him we had none. He|informedus he had not tasted anything except tea and sugar for fourteen days, nor did he feel inclined for anything else. We gave him the only things we had that he wished for, — tea, sugar, and got some salts for him from the natives. 30th.— Day rainy and cold. Got some of the fish the lake is celebrated for, they are about two or three inches long and are something like tench ; they are tolerably good when fresh, but when dry are greasy and tough. The lake is about six miles long by three broad and full of wild ducks. The natives s<iy that there arc no eels in Rotorua or Taupo lakes, which is remarkable, as they are so common to all the streams and lakes of New Zealand. Mr. C- n managed to get up and walkabout a little this day, and in his absence, his rascally boy managed to eat the greatest part of his sugar, which was a sad blow to him, as it was the only nourishment he could take. He said that the natives weie kind enough to him in their way, but he certainly was in a h deplorable state. May Ist.— Day too rainy to stir out. 2nd.— Beautiful morning; saw the steam arising

from the top of Tongariro. Started for laupo and! marched sixteen miles to the hot springs, which form baths of different degrees of temperature; some boiling to that degree that the natives cook their food in them, and formerly they used to put their prisoners into them. Some of the waters taste like Epsom salts. We believe they have all been analyzed by Dr. Dieffenbach. About half a mile further on we came to the pah, and to our surprise there was a party of forty who received us with a war dance, and about the same number on our side followed their example. We found out the reason of it was, that one of the chiefs' (Heve-kei-kei's) wives had been goin«* astray in his absence, and that her friends were prepared to protect her in case of her lord taking vengeance on her. However, after considerable talking on both sides, the affair was amicably settled, and the lady received into favor again. The whole scene had a good effect, combined with wild barren hills, hot springs, and the magnificent lake of Taupo. # 3rd.— Got a small warre belonging to Here-kei-kei s brother, a man who professed great affection for us, which he shewed by generally devouring the remains ot our dinner, for which he used to watch like a vulture, and drive any of the small fry away who by chance got a half picked pidgeon bone. A few of the people here are missionary natives, some are pikopo, or catholics, but the majority are heathen. 4th.— Went over to Te Itapato see Hen-lieu, but he was not at home ; the day was beautiful and the lake as smooth as glass. We found Te Rapa to be a pretty spot, with some beautiful karaka trees surrounding the houses. > Gave a man the gun to shoot some ducks, he brought in five splendid ones which he killed in two shots. A fowl that they were about to kill for us this day happened in' the course of the chase after him to light on the top of the old priest's warre; they tapu'd it, ai,d the pot it was cooked in, and none of them would touch either the fowl or the pot for some time after. They used to burn the priest's warre, wherever he left it after a night's halt, as they consider it was too sacred for profane mortals to sleep in after him. One of us got a scalded foot this morning, in the mud, at the bottom of the river while crossing it to bathe in the hot springs. 6th. — Messenger arrived from Te Rapa this morning to say that the great man (Te Heu Heu) was ready to receive us. We went over and found a bull-necked old man of about sixty years, wrapped in a dirty mat, sitting on a large stone, which no one but himself and principal wife dare sit on, and surrounded by his chiefs and retainers. We looked in vain for the dignity that we had heard distinguished Te lieu Heu among the chiefs. We gave him Te JEtauparaha's letter, which he said was good. He made us a long speech, which as far as we could understand, was a theme most people are eloquent upon, viz. himself; and told us particularly not to go to Rotorua, as the people there were bad, and would rob us, to which we did not pay much attention, as maories are rather given to malign their neighbours. He pressed us very much to change our quarters, and come and stop with him, but we declined, as we intended to start on our journey in a day or two. After giving him a few presents we went back to our warre. We were informed that he had told the Wangarui natives not to give up their land without part payment in muskets and ammunition, and also that he laid claim to the land on either side of the river, as the river had its source on his mountain, Tongariro. 7th. — Rainy day. The man who robbed Mn R n at Manawetu, at Rotoraira, favoured us with his company the greater part of the day. He told us he had no affection for pakehas in general, but that as we had come with hi > friend Heri-kei-kei, he would not molest ms. Heard that some white man who was travelling through the Taupo country, with a pack on his back, had, iin crossing on a tree over a small stream, fallen and was killed. Bth —Heavy rain all night. This morning >Heri-kei-kei's brother "Te Heri," came into our • warre laughing so heartily that we thought he had some good news to to tell us. He informed us that Te.Heu Heu and all his people had beeen destroyed. We found on. enquiry that it was correct, but could not get over to see the place as it was tapu. 9th. — Could not get a canoe to take us over to TeRapa, as no natives would go. 10th. — Weather very cold, snow on the tops of the hills. The natives floeked^from all , parts to have a '•tangi," over Te Heu Heu, and said if they got him out they would not mind the others. .Fifty "four people, men women and children were said to have been killed, a number of muskets, and a quantity of ammunition buried under the mud. 1 1 th.— People still arriving,' many of them with guns. 12th.— Morning fine and * cold. We went over to Te Rapa and found the beautiful karaka trees we had been admiring all swept away, and nothingbut a mass of mud to be seen on the -slope where there were houses, trees, and fences a few days before. It seemed probable that the heavy rain during the night had swelled the hot springs in the hill immediately over Te Rapa, and that, like allow of lava,' it had rushed down on the devotedplace ; or, there might have been some volcanic agency at work. There had been no symptom of an earthquake that night. -There was great crying among the assembled natives, and after that, as usual, a feast of pork, fish and potatoes. Upwards of a hundred men then set to work to try and get the chief out, but as few of them had any thing better than their hands, it seemed rather doubtful whether they would succeed in removing the enormous mass of liquid mud. 13th.— People all off again to Te Rapa, to resume digging for the chief. 14-th.— Very hard frost. The chief not yet discovered. ]sth. — Found that the character Mr. T r had given of Heri-kei-kei was quite correct, as we had paid the money we agreed to give him at Wangarui to furnish men to Rotorua. Three of the four men who were to go were not to be found this morning, when we were about to start, and he seemed quite indifferent about it, notwithstanding all his former professions. We got three men however, and embarked in a canoe, on the lake, and after going three miles, landed at Wai-ta-nui , a deserted pah, the largest we ever saw in the country, extending one fourth of a mile along the shore; three t miles from which is a small pah, named Wai Marireo where we slept 16th.— Two of our men said they did-not like to go to Rotorua, but on our offering to carry our baggage, they started off with it, and carried it to Mota-teire, six miles further on, There was little cultivation about these two pahs, the natives' principal subsistence seemed, to be the small lish of the lake. 17th. — Two of our men would not go on. One of our friends from Otaki, E. *Kumi, or as, we called him, the '-Ogre" and a man named Peter, who seemed to be very religious, and spoke a little English, which he had learned on board a whaler, happened to be going in a canoe up the lake: we took advantage of their otter, and embarked on the lake which was as binooth as glass. la about an hour a stiff breeze arose, and with it a heavy cross sea, on account of which this lake is consideied very dangerous. We scudded before the wind for some time, tili a sudden gust blew down the sail r and the canoe became like a log in the water, and was filling fast, with nothing better to bale than a frying pan. Luckily as we were just preparing for a swim, we got the sail up, and managed in the nick of time, to get under shelter of a point at Roton^aio where we landed for the night.— Got a fine view ot'Tongaruo this day at the soulhendof the lake, which was one of the finest we ever saw. 18th. — Went 8 miles over the lake to Rangatira pah which we found empty, this appeared to have been once

a largo pah. The people owing to the scarcity of fish, had gone farther oil' to a wood. The shores of Taupo eemed almost devoid of trees, and the soil, except a few spots, indifferent. On the western side are bold cliffa, and the natives saw so ne few pahs. The population around the lake is reported to be about 1,500 which we should think a good deal exaggerated. An excessive panic had seized them, on account of the death of Te Heuheu, as they were afraid of the Maniapoto tribe coming to attack them. Some of them said they would move down to Kapiti, where they would be anything but pleasant neighbours to the Port Nicholson people, and others to Rotorua. Not finding any people in the pah we sailed three miles farther, to the Waikato liver, which is even there of considerable depth and breadth; we went down about two miles to some hot springs called Waireke where we slept. 19th. — Crossed the river to the left bank and proceeded through a desolate country, for seven miles, to a wood called Oruanui, where there were several natives who were going to build a pah. 20th. — several people arrived to day, many of them had come up with us from Otaki and weie the people who stole our tobacco ; they pretended to be delighted to see us, but, qualified their affection by asking for tobacco ; towards evening they shouldered our baggage, and went two miles off to the Kueni's pah. 21st. — The natives at this pah seemed a bad set. The Chief, who called himself a very great rangatira, ,asked payment for water this morning. We at last got away, and went two miles through a wood of fine totara to a plain covered with thick fern, through which we proceeded for four miles to a new pah on rising ground, at the edge of the wood. There seemed to be a good deal • of cultivation in detached spots, which had been cleared in the wood. Here also the natives appear to construct their own canoes, as we passed a new one, seventy-two feet long, concealed among the fern. There were not more than a dozen natives at this place, who seemed poor, but civil. We had now been some days without salt, our sugar being expended long ago ; the only luxuries now remaining to us were a little tea and chocolate. 22nd.— The weather too severe to start. 23rd.— Had a long talk with the " Ogre" about payment, as he was incited by Peter, and wanted to extort more from us, although we were almost too liberal to them ; at last we settled with them, and started. On leaving, we gave a small piece of tobacco to a little queerlooking old man, a native of East Cape, like ourselves a stranger, who ran after us with some sugar wrapped in a leaf, which we refused; the "Ogre," however, was not so scrupulous, as he snatched it immediately out of his hand. This was the only instance of gratitude we experienced in a maorie during our journey. Went six miles to the Waikato, over hills and plains, without a tree or shrub of any size to be seen, then struck off along the bank for about' four miles to a village named Takapao, situated at abend of the river. We found this place de•erted, the inhabitants having gone some miles off to the wood to their cultivations. 24th.— The *'Ogre" was detected this morning stealing tobacco out of our box, which he hastily put back when discovered, saying that he merely wished to see whether we really had sufficient tobac co to pay him or not ; he however managed to hide some. After a long search among the rushes, a canoe was found but so leaky that it would not float. They managed at last to caulk it with grass and mud ; in performing which Peter stole a knife, that was lent to him, saying that it had fallen into the river, he was seen dexterously to stiok it to the "Ogre's" slave. They now put our baggage into the canoe and the slave paddled us across leaving our two fr encs on the other side. The slave on landing us, went back, and we waited patiently for some time, expecting to see the others come across, when suddenly Peter got up and ran off, pursued by the slave and the " Ogre," Bhouting t and flourishing his tomahawk saying, he would kill him. We looked quietly on while this farce was acting, not exactly knowing the meaning of it, when our patience being exhausted we shouldered our baggage and carried it out of sight about two miles off, thinking that they would come over to us bye and bye. After a short time one of us went back to have a parley, when after some demur the " Ogre" came across with his slave; he pretended great love for us and said that although a very great chief, he togetherjwith his slave would carry our baggage to Rotorua. He said that Peter would not come across, as he was afraid we would shoot him.— While one of us was talking to him, the other who remained with the baggage, appeared at a short distance off carrying the gun ; his countenance suddenly changed as he no doubt expected instant execution, and he ran off followed by his slave, saying that he would go to his village for more provisions and return in the evening.— The reason of his so suddenly decamping was in consequence of one of us coming up with the gun which his guilty conscience thought was for his instant execution. We now went back to our baggage, which we opened, when the cause of Pctei's deseition became apparent In packing up our things in the morning he had abstracted a new blanket and left a worthless one in place of it, hence the fear of being shot, as he thought we had discovered it before, seeing us open our packs on the bank of the river. We bivouacked for the night on the river's bank. We now recollected that Peter had borrowed the gun the day before, as he said, to shoot a duck, and on r .turning tiie gun discharged, we found one barrel stuffed with mud, which with difficulty we got out, on which the "Ogie" asked us to load it again for him to shoot, he returned it with the nipple stopped up, as we afterwards found out. The other barrel would not go off, which they well knew of These circumstances persuaded us that they intended a more extensive scale 'of lobbery, but had not the courage to carry it out. 25th. — Waited till ten o'clock, when there being no signs of the " Ogre," (in fact we had little idea of his returning,) we lett our box and Peter's blanket hid under the bank, and started with upwards of sixty pounds each on our backs, amidst alternate showers of rain and hail. Went across the plain to a high range of bare hills at the top of which is an extensive table land of very barren so 1, where it came on to snow heavily, which made the path very indistinct. After a fatiguing march of ten miles we halted, but were unable to procure water and obtained very little wood for our fire. In the night it froze hard and was extremely cold. 26th.— In about half an hour we came to a small stream named Te-pueto, which luckily had a temporary bridge across it. Marched about twelve miles across the plain till we came to the llangataika river, where we halted : here we received an addition to our small stock of provisions, which, when we st-irted from the Waikato, consisted of about two pounds of pork and forty potatoes, in the shape of two whios, a bird of the goose kind about the size of a duck, which lit on the river just as we halted, and were killed at one shot. However they fell into a deep pool, where the eddies kept whirling them round in a most tantalizing manner for about an hour, till just before dark we managed to fish them ashore. 27th.— Waited till the sun was well up, as it had froze h-ird during the night, and we had two trips to take across the river, which was twenty yards wide, five feet deep, and icy cold. Proceeded along the foot of a range of high hills for about six miles, when the path led up some excessively steep hills. We here found about ten or twelve cold potatoes in a basket which we soon demolished. After very seveie work, ascending and descending the hills for two and a half hours, we arrived at a pah on the top of the highest, named Tutu-tara-tara, which we considered to be the highest inhabited place in New

Zealand. Here we found three old women who speedilycooked some potatoes. They said the men of the pah were coming home next day, which we were glad to hear. We now found out that we had missed the path to Rotomahana, and had gone along way out of our course. 2Sth. — Very hard frost The chief, named Hare-hare, his wife and one of his men arrived this afternoon. We engaged the chief and his wife to assist us in carrying our things to Rotorua, which they agreed to do tor a large payment. 29th.— Descended the range of steep hills till we came to the plain, along which we walked for two hours to an uninhabited village on the banks of a small river running to the left into the Rangataiki. Purchased a pig, which had unsuspectingly followed us down from the pah, and gave the old chief a present of half of it, as he appeared very civil. 30th. — Halted, as the river was flooded, and the natives said there was no canoe. June Ist.— Rained in torrents, river much flooded. The chiefs wife went back to the pah for potatoes. 2nd. — Still continued to rain. Five natives came to day, whose appearance was not in their favor ; one, who spoke English, we set down to be an arrant thief. He talked a good deal in favor of Heke,whom indeed all the natives of the interior seem to think a great deal of. R mgiheata and the south, seeming to excite very little interest among them. They still maintained that there was no canoe to be found. ' • 3rd —Went three miles to the Rangataika river, and found it much flooded. The natives proposed that we should swim and that they would carry our things across, which invitation we declined ; however after a short time one of them swam across with difficulty, and as we anticipated soon found a canoe among the rushes. They now asked the gun as payment for crossing, which modest request we of course refused, and agreed for some tobacco with the old chief. One of us now got in with some of the baggage, and a maori to paddle. He got across all right. The other remained, as the canoe was barely large enough to hold two persons, and got in on the return of the canoe, when the remainder of the baggage was put in. Three or four natives now suddenly jumped into the canoe and swamped it and threw the baggage out. The gun which was wet, was handed to the chief to hold. They baled the canoe a little, and one of them hastily paddled it over half full of water to the other side. They had us now in a predicament, with ourselves on one side of the river, and the gun and greater part of the baggage on the other. We requested the fellow who came across to give us an Indian rubber cloak out of the canoe, when he coolly said, he would keep it. We had now the pleasure of seeing them opening our packages, and examine them most minutely. After about half an hour, one man came across '"and brought some of the things, and to our surprize the gun; he hastily threw them ashore, together with about thirty potatoes, and paddled off in a great hurry, saying that it was not he tlut stole the things, but the "Ngatikahouri," meaning the man who spoke English. On inspecting our luggage, we found they had taken a maori testament, a blue woollen shirt, two blankets, forty sticks of tobacco, some soap, a box of copper caps, together with the cloak before mentioned. We now lit a fire, dried our gun, and cooked some potatoes, our friends all the time looking on from a distance, after which we started, and after passing two deep streams up to our chests, we went over some high hills to a small wood, where we halted an hour after dark, lit a good fire, and had four small potatoes each for supper. 4th. — Started without our breakfast as our provisions were out. Luckily we found six potatoes in a deserted warre, on which we dined, and went over seven miles of yery bare hilly country till we came to a stream, small but deep, which took one of us up to the chin, the other had to swim. Went five miles further to a lake named Rarewakaaetu, where we found plenty of firewood, and had a blazing fire, which in some measure consoled us for the want of a supper. 5th — Hard frost this morning. At about three miles distance on our left, saw some boiling springs which we supposed to be Rotomahana; followed the path for two miles, when we suddenly came to the fine lake of Tarawera. Saw some canoes and a small pah on the opposite side ; but although we fired and shouted they took no notice of us. At last one of us scrambled over some precipitous hills, and in about an hour got a canoe to take our baggage across. Here we got some potatoes cooked, and for the first time on our travels they asked payment before giving them to us. Having been so long without food, we soon demolished a large basketful. We then went two miles to see the Lion of New, Zealand, the boiling springs or fountains of Rotomahana. The ascent up to one, a concrete formed by the deposit of different mineral substances, resembles a succession of broad steps of white marble. On the several flights are baths of the deepest blue, of different degrees of temperature, till you arrive near the boiling chauldron at thejtop, which is dangerous to approach, as it sometimes throws the water and steam to some distance, the, height of this remarkable object is about fifty feet. There are also some beautiful formations on the manuka trees from the dripping of the water. On our return we found the natives of the village ,had managed to abstract from our baggage a silk handkerchief and worsted comforter. We then went seven miles across the lake to the Mission Station, where in the absence of Mr. Spencer, we received every attention from Mrs. Spencer. We put up however with Mr. Falloon a most obliging and intelligent man, and skilful mechanic, who, in addition to his other qualifications speaks maorie like a native. As be was going to Matamata in three or four days we gladly waited to avail ourselves of his company. The population in this district is considered to be about 1,4a)0 and they can number some four hundred guns of different kinds. The pah which was large and strong has now diminished to a few huts. The people live a good deal on a delicious fish about the size and of the appearance of whitebait, and cray-fish, which they catch by sinking large bundles of fern in the lake, and after the lapse ofafewdays suddenly pulling them up again, when they find the fish entangled. 6th. 7th. Bth. 9th. — Remained at Tanawera, raining hard almost the whole time. <■ Natives informed us that the chief Hare Hare at Tututara was a cold blooded murderer, having treacherously killed a near relation a shoit time ago. 10th. — Heavy rain till four o'clock, when we started and crossed the small lake Kareha, about a mile and a halffrom Tarawera. Ascended through wood to the top of a high hill, where we were recognized in the moonlight by a man who had seen us at the Waimate, six months before ; after descending the hill, arrived on the plain and then along it for four miles to Te Ngae, the Missino Station at Rotorua, where we met a most kind and hos1 pitable reception from Mrs. Chapman, and Mrs. Brown, which made us forget all our privations. 11th.— Went to see the sulphur springs about three miles from Te Ngae, surrounding a small lake, of a whitish colour. A large quantity of the purest sulphur might be obtained here. 1 2th. — Having by the kindness of Mrs. Chapman got a stock of supplies, among which was a basket of apples, Ripston pippins, of excellent quality, which we did not expect to iind in the interior of New Zealand ; we crossed the Like, passing by a large island, where the merciless Hongi, some years ago, massacred some hundreds of the Rotorua people, having to their astonishment dragged his canoes over land. After seven miles pulling, landed on the opposite shore. This district has been the scene of many bloody fights, and we could not but admire the Christian courage and fortitude of Mr. and Mrs. Chapman in remaining so many

years among these ruthless savages, when they were in , the full exercise of their cannibal appetites; butnowthey aie much changed and a very large proportion of them can read and write. 'From the lake we passed on two ' miles to a wood. We had not got two miles into this wood when it got so dark that we could not see each other at a yard's distance, so for fear of losing the path we were obliged to halt, when it came on to rain, and after two hours hard work we got a me. 13th. — Path level through the wood ; went on till ' sunset, and were unable to get water at our halting place. 14th. — Hard frost. Wood timbered with totara, remu, and matai. A bridle road might be easily ' cleared through it. We got out of the wood in an hour and half, and in two more arrived at TeToa Patetele, when we found all the inhabitants absent, except < three women, the remainder having gone to the feast at Mata Mata 15th. — Started before sunrise, descended a high hill,to a swampy plain ; hard frost and very cold, wading through swamps and crossing streams } our natives hardly able to crawl till the sun got up. Crossed the Waiho (the Thames) over rather an ingenious temporary bridge of tnauuka sticks, and alter almost continual wading through swamps, arrived at Mala Mata, twenty-six miles irom Te Toa Paietere. We put up with Mr. Nicholls, who gave us a most hospitable reception. lG'th. — -The natives had assembled for a feast of peace given by a young chief of Mata Mata, William Thompson, to the Rotorua tribes, alter a war ot eight years' duration. They had five hundred pigs and several tons of potatoes and kuinera-. laid in rows, one hundred and fifty yards long. About 2,1)00 people were assembled here. J 7th.— Seven hundred and fifty men, women, and children stood up to be catechised, by the Jiev. Messrs. Browne and Chapman. They were formed in classes, and appeared to acquit themselves very well. They afterwards sung a hymn, and made speeches of a pacific character. It was certainly a remarkable sight to see these people, who a very few years ago were devouring each other, sitting down quietly with every appearance of cordiality. Some of these very natives had enticed sixty of the Rotorua people into an ambush, and having killed them, cooked and eat them ail in sight of their friends in the pah ; their bones are now to be seen in threeheaps, near the remains of Mr. Chapman's former house, which they burnt down in the course of the tight. This day they had an enormous quautity of potatoes and eels laid out, together with sixteen casks of tobacco, and some European clothing. In the evening they were near coming to blows, about the division of food, <See. Some troublesome fellows ran to their guns, aud loaded them, aud thereseemed every prospect of a general row. But the chief Thompson ordered all his men into the pah, aud after talking all night, it was amicably settled in the morning. I9.h.— This day there was an auction, the Mata Mata people buying back the tobacco which they had given away, with European clothes, of which they had a large stock ; most of the women having gowns, and the men wore good boots, in which they walked in a manner that was paintul to behold, aud some other articles, without much attention however to harmony in their disposal. For instance, one man sported a soldiers' coat and a pair ot spectacles. ; another , long blue stockings and a mat ; umbrellas too seemed decidedly iv favour, oue party of about thirty carryiug them although it did uot happen to rain at the time. 21st.— Remained at Mata Mata, Went to see the native church, which is seventy-five feet long, built of totara wood, aud the largest iv New Zealand. 22.— Recruited our supplies by the kindness of Mr. Nicholls, and started across the plain towards the Waikato, wading through swamps every quarter of a mile. Arrived at Pakeioa, a small pah about nine miles from Mata Mata, from thence five miles, still wading, to a small grove of trees, where we bivouacked for the night, 23rd. — Our shoes frozen so hard this morning, that we were obliged to thaw them at the lire before putting them on. Commenced wading the same as yesterday, one swamp was about a mile long, and arrived at a village near Waikato, after about sixteen miles march, the last eight of which was good road over plain. 24th.— Went about half-a-mile to Kiri Kirißoa, on the bank of the Waikato, aud went down the stream for fifteen miles, to the junction of tbe Wai pa, when it beeo mm e s a noble stream, two hundred yards across; a good deal of cultivation and numerous habitations on its banks. Five miles further down we arrived at the Mission Station, and received the usual .kind reception we have been so iortunate to experience on our journey, from Mr. and Mrs. Ash well. Saw Te Whero-Whero, who called iv the evening, and apologized for coming in a blanket. 25th. Went to see Te Whero-Whero at his pah, Kaitotehe, which is small and dirty. He was dressed in a new velveteen jacket, and flauuel waistcoat, evidently expecting a visit j saw a man who was wouuded in one of the late native tights, he had had two balls in his head, one of which they got out with a pair of scissors, the other passed through his face, breaking his upper jaw; he seemed to suffer little inconvenience, except from a swelling, which bursts now and then, but appeared to be m perfect health otherwise. 26th.— Embarked on the river, about two miles down ; a vein of coal has been discovered by Mr. Ashwell, but it is doubtful whether the jealousy aud avarice of the natives will not make it worthless at present. Banks low and swampy, and cleared of trees. The country seems adapted for feeding numerous herds of cattle, as there is a good deal of grass, although of a coarse kind. About twenty miles from Kaitotehe, the banks become wooded and thickly populated, and so on till we reached Mangatuwin, where we halted for the night, thirty-five miles from the Mission Station. 27th. — Proceeded on our voyage. The river banks become now more hilly and wooded, and very picturesque, till we reached Tuakou, when we lauded and proceeded for eleven miles through a wooded country, walking through which was very fatiguing, on account of the road being cut up by the passage of pigs along it. 28th. — Halt. Incessant rain. 29th. — Went three miles through the wood to the open country at Tuamata. The rivulets-all flooded j waded over one up to our shoulders, another we crossed ou a <• moki,'' or raft, made with rushes ; to cross another we had to go a quarter of a mile to cut down a tree ; and after one of the most fatiguing day's journey we experienced, arrived at Papakura. 30th. — Started at ten, a. in., but owing to the state of the roads, did not get into Auckland till after dark ; being exactly fifteen weeks on our journey from Wellingt n.

Among the projects in this day of projects, when nothing is thought impossible, and scarcely anything for the moment seems absurd, we see mention made of a •♦ Ship Railway" irom Liverpool to Manchester, by which vessels of large burden may be transported direct to the latter town, saving the port and other charges at the former.

Mill at Kai JWara.— We were very much gratified by having an opportunity, through the kindness of its proprietor, Mr. Schultze, of inspecting the New Mill at Kai Wara, which is now complete, and in operation, and the following description of it will, we doubt not, prove interesting to our readers at a distance who have at heart the welfare of the settlement. At about a quarter of a mile from the sea shore, in the Kai Wara valley, a substantial data has been built across the Kai Wara stream, by which a fall of thirteen fee tis obtained. The mill is a neat substantial wooden building two storieshigh , about 32 feet long and 20 feet wide, and is built of red pine. The frame and shaft of the water wheel (a breast wheel), 26 feet diameter and 5 wide, is made of red pine, and the arms of mai and miro alternately. The diameter of the pit wheel, is ten feet, that of the spur wheel 11 feet. The cogs of these wheels are uiade of rata, titoke, kohai,and manuka, the arrasare made of the mai; die pillow blocks of ! the pit wheel, which aie usually metal, are in this instance made of mairi, which it is expected from Us toughness will prove a very good substituteThere is at present only one pair 6i stones (French burrs) at work, but a second- pair will be ready m the course of another fortnight, and the machinery is capable of turning four pair, so that the grinding powers of the mill may be increased wiiu the increase of cultivation in the settlement, while the water power at his command is sufficient for three mills of equal size.— A very complete dressing machine and smutting machine are also attached to the mill. The whole of the machinery appears to be constructed in- the most substantial manner, and reflects the greatest credit on the engineer, Mr. .Glasgow, under whose able direction the woiks have been executed. This mill will be of great service to the settlers on the Porima road, and we ,hope will have a very beneficial effect in increasing the amount of cultivation in the neighbouring districts, more especially as the new road r now in progress, will before the next harvest, enable the settlers to carry their wheat to be ground without difficulty, and the present prices of wheat in the neighbouring colonies, the ceitainty of additional reinfoi cements of troops to this colony* and the supplies which will be required m the new settlement at Otakou, appear to hold out to the settlers the prospect of remunerating price* for their produce. We feel great pleasure in recording the opening of this, the fourth mill which has been erected in this district. It is a satisfactory proof (among others) of energy and enterprize of the settlers, and a unerring test of the gradual progress of cultivation in the neighbourhood of Port Nicholson, in spite of the unsettled state of the land claims, and a host of other impediments. This addition to the number of mills in Port Nicholson will also have a useful influence on the coasting trade, as it will be an inducement to the natives of Olaki and the neighbouring districts, and on the East Coast, to send their wheat to Port Nicholson to be ground, and encourage them to extend their cultivations. We have little doubt Mr. Schultze will' find his mill as profitable to himself, -as it is likely to prove useful to the settlement.— Wellington Spectutor. Woman's Love,— No woman ever loved to the full extent of the passion who did not venerate where she loved, and who d>d not feel humbled by her exaggerated and overweeuing estimate of the Superiority of the subject of her worship. What state could fall, what liberty decay, if the zeal of man's noisy patriotism was as pure as the silent loyalty of a woman's love ? Woman's love ol her husband is a robe that wraps aud protects herself from many a storm.