JOURNAL OF HAMMETT.

Nelson Examiner and New Zealand Chronicle, Volume XXII, Issue XXII, 1 September 1863, Page 2

JOURNAL OF HAMMETT.

Tuesday, June 2.— Cut through to the Hohono creek, and found it impossible to make a track by this line. The place is but one deep gully. We are heading about W. by S.

Wednesday, June 3. — Fine weather. Commenced cutting another line more to the north. Found a great many gullies, but can avoid them by going a little more to the north.

Thursday, June 4. — Shifted camp as far as we had cut, and again cut ahead for the Hohono creek, which we could plainly hear. Met with very good bush fiats, and the route seems a likely one. Friday, June 5. — Line nearly cut through to the lake. Mo rain, but the bush very wet. Tuesday, June .9. — Have been cutting at traok since the sth. Very wet to-day. Could not get outside the tent. Am heartily sick of being so continually wet through. Thursday, June 11. — Bob and I working at the track. Harry and Mr. Howitt went to the watti with the canoe for flour. On returning to camp we found they had brought the Darkey with them, whom they had found camped at the watti. When asked what he was doing there, he said he was- very sick ; yet he had eaten about forty pounds of flour, besides plenty of tea and sugar. We have now left only 100 pounds of flour. Mr. Howitt says he had a hard job toiget the Darkey to leave the place and come on with him. The fellow made long faces to me and Bob, but we told him that we had been round Cape Horn too many times for him to play on us, and I proposed setting Judge Lynch to try him, and punish him as he deserved. We said that siok or well he would have to travel with us in the morning, as we were going to the beach to see if there were any stores there yet; to be had. We wanted to be clear of him, for he must have been in the watti for, at least, three week#, to have eaten as much as he had done.

Friday, June 12. — Shifted camp. We drove the Darkey on to the traok, and, when there, Mr. Howitt and I went ahead as the fellow travelled so slowly. Bob and Harry were behind bringing up the rest of the things. When they came to us we asked for the Darkey, but they had not seen him. We put down our swags and went in search for him. Found him under a tree in the bush, bat off the track, where he had gone and lay down, no doubt with the intention of again going back had he got clear of us. Bob and I took from him his swag and, dividing it between us, told him that, if he did not willingly walk on, we would tie his hands and drive him along. We thus got him as far as the Hohono creek and then camped. Saturday, June 13. — Started this morning for the beach leaving Harry to finish the track. Bob and I carried the Darkey's swag and our own and, making him keop up with us, we got within four mile* of the diggings and camped. Sunday, June 14 — It began to rain bat we started, and, when we got to the diggings, found that they had been deserted and that all the Maoris had left. There' were no means by which we could go down the river so we had to take the bush for it as far as the beaoh. Left the Darkey at the diggings with about ten pounds' of flour and some tea and sugar and told him we would ask the Maoris to come up and fetch him. Mr. Howitt charged him £2 for what he had eaten when away from' us. Camped in the evening when about half way to the beaoh. Monday, June 15. — Got down to the beach at the mouth of the river [Teramakau] at about dinnertime,' and then went along the beach to the Grey, about ten miles distant. Overtook three Maoris before we got there and they told us there was nui mi the kai leai at the Grey. Walked on and saw the masts of two vessels in the river. We felt sure there was " Balm in Gilead." Went to the Government store, where Mr. Townsend made us very welcome. Got a good feed aotually off beef and potatoes— what a treat. Bob went on board the Crest of the Wave and slept all' night. Tuesday, June 16.— Rained hard all day. The Emerald Isle left to-day for the South. Wednesday, June 17.— Still rainiug heavily. Wind N.E. I told Mr. Howitt that Bob and I would like to know if there were any chance of getting flour from Captain Buxton ? He said yes, and we got 1,200 lbs., at 225. per hundred. Thursday, June 18. — The Maoris say we cannot oross the Pouera river yet. Bob and I helping to put up our store. Weather fine. Friday, June 19.— At daylight, started with Maoris along the beaoh for the Teramakau. When we bad reached the Pouera, we found it almost impassable. We stripped, and, carrying our swags on our heads, with the water neck high, succeeded in grossing. It was very bad walking. We got some things from the store.

Saturday, June 20. — Simon and Peter, two Maoris, take us up the river to-day, for which Mr. Howitt promises to pay ten shillings. We each got a kit of potatoes, and with them reached the diggings, where we stopped. Sent the Darkey down by the returning cauoe. Sunday, June 21. — Started for home again. Got there about dark, and found Harry all right. Monday, June 22.— Finished all we had to do here, Weather fine.

Tuesday, June 28. — Started again for Lake Bran* ner. Got there in the afternoon.

Friday, June 26. — Yesterday, Wednesday, and to* day, all hands at the track. Saturday, June 27. — Mr. Howitt, Bob, and Harry, started across the lake with the canoe, to fetch some flour, and also with the intention of going to the Arnold to catch eels. They left the compass with me, * so that I should walk over the best line I could l find r for a track.

Sunday, June 28. — Raining and blowing hard from the S.B.

Monday, June 29. — Weather fine again. Wind strong. lam cutting a line round the lake. They have not yet come back. Tuesday, June SO.— Fine dry weather. Wind S.W. and blowing freshly. Continued cutting the track. Mr. Howitt not yet returned. Begin to feel uneasy about them. Have had no companion but my dog for the last four days. Wednesday, July I.— Fine dry weather. I went down to the lake to try if I could see the canoe. Got up a tree but could see no sign of her. Went back to the tenc for my blankets, I having determined to walk round the lake, fearing something may hare happened. Left a note in the tent stating where I had gone in case I might miss them. I went as far as the Little Hohono creek, and camped there for the night. Thursday, July 2.— Boiled up my blankets and waded round the lake, as far as I could, towards the Arnold river. At times I was up to my arm-pits. I made a raft of some old logs so that I might on them get as far as I saw some white pine standing. I went some distance and, as it was getting dark, I hauled my raft up and camped. I had yet seen no sign of them.

Friday, July 3.— Started again. On going round a bend of the lake near the mouth of the Hohono I saw something lying ou the beach, which, to my dismay, on reaching it, proved to be Mr. Howitt's swag rolled up in the little calico tent which we used for travelling with ; thia, by preventing the blanket from becoming soaked with water, had been blown ou shore. I searched all around but I could see nothing else. I have therefore every reason for supposing that the oaooe Mink with them daring the strong wind

that has been blowing. The canoe was but of green wood and floated scarcely three hches out of the water in smooth weather. I took the swag along with me to mjwatti, made a fire to dry the papers and camped there. It rained heavily. Saturday, July 4.— Still raining heavily. Started round the lake again, towards the Arnold. Saw no sign of smoke in any direction, no portion of the canoe, nothing which indicated that Mr. Howitt and my mates were alive. I made fast the ruft at the mouth of the river, and went down along its bank. I •aw they had been there, becauso their bobs and lines were there. I made myself a bit of a hut with somo flax, and camped till morning. Still raining very heavily, and tbe lake fust rising. I saw no. other sign save that I have stated, which showed Mr. Howitt had been here.

Sunday, July 5. — Rain still continues. After a most miserable, sleepless night, I started on my lonely way back to my camp. It blew strongly from the S.E., or I should have tried to get across the mouth of the Arnold. I did not, however, try it, because I could get no soundings with my pole, and feared the current and the wind together would drive me down the river. I aad to pole a long way to get back to my toatti for something to eat. Got back about dark, made my raft fast, and lay down to sleep. It was impossible to get any fire, everything was so saturated with wet.

Monday, July 6. — Rain still pouring down as if the gates of heaven were opened for another flood. Water nearly half way up to the posts of the toatti. Had to content myself with flour mixed with cold water and a little sugar. I was, indeed, most thankful for that, for had we not left a little flour and tea bere, to carry us .back over the saddle, I must have starved, aa every place is flooded, thus rendering it impossible to get to the Grey, or even to the bush to look for woodheus. All the low land is flooded, so I must make my little stock of flour spin out as long as I can ; it is all I hare to depend upon, and there is no telling how* long this weather will last.

Tuesday, July 7. — Rain pouring as hard as ever. I feel lonely, miserable, and cold indeed. No fire. Nothing to eat save a little flour and cold water. To tell all the imaginings which are continually passing through my mind would do no good. Frequently, during the past few days, while sitting in this down pouring rain, and while perfectly awake, have I fancied that I could see Mr. Howitt and the others walking towards me, first in one direction and then in another. ' By an effort I have shook off this depressing dullness, and bare then spoken with my faithful dog, as though iVwas a Christian. Again I wondor whether I ob.aU bo enabled to recoror tho bodies, that I may be enabled to give them burial iv a place which I may be enabled to point out to their •arriving friends. No human being can conceive my almost maddening thoughts. If it should please God that I become insane, what will become of me ?

Wednesday, July 8. — Still raining heavily. Thursday, July 9. — Still raining, though not quite •o heavily as it has done. I fancy the lake has lowered a little, but I must" still content myself with my same fare. No means of getting a fire. There seems, however, now some prospect of its olearing. No sign of smoke anywhere around the lake. Friday, July 10.— Still raining. The lake falls but ■lowly. Saturday, July 11. — The lake lowered a little during the night. Wind has shifted more to the 8.8., but there is such a quantity of water baoked up by thelake being so high that but little difference can be peroeived in the depth of water. Tbank God I have managed to light a fire. I can now get a, drop of warm tea to warm me. lam chilled throughout.

Sunday, July 12.— There seems to be some little prospect of the weather becoming fine to-day. Wind working round to the E., and this generally brings fine weather. I walked round the lake to a point to try if I oould see anything. As far as the eye could reach I could discover nothing of Mr. Howitt and the others. I fear they are lying at the bottom of the like.

Monday, July 13. — Fine easterly weather. The lake fulling. My raft so eoddened with water that it will hardly float, so I walked round the edge of the lake in the bush opposite to where I picked up the •wag, but saw no sign of the canoe. I feel very anxious to recover their bodiesjf they are drowned, and keep myself on as short rations as I can, to allow me to stay and do so. I fear their bodies must be entangled in some of the trees sunk in the lake, for I have lost all hope of their being alive, or they would have made their way round here for food long before this.

Tuesday, July 14. — Towards evening rain again commenced.

Wednesday, July 15.— -Raining as hard as ever all day, and bitterly cold. Thursday, July 16. — Rain and snow. All the hills are covered. I have now a worse prospect than before, for my raft is water-logged, and I must make another one before I move from here. I manage to keep my fire in. Friday and Saturday. — It rained these days without ceasing. Lake nearly up to its former height again. Sunday, July 19.— Raining, but not quite bo heavily. Monday, July 20. — Weather looks as though it had broken. Took my raft round to a swamp where there is some white pine, so that I may make .another one and get away, for ray flour is nearly done, and I can get no more till I reach the Grey river. Tuesday, July 21.— Still fine. Made another raft, and, haTiog the old one in the swamp, I went round again in my new raft towards the Arnold, to see if I oould discover anything more of Mr. Howitt and the party before I finally left, as my flour was done, and I must try and get to the beach, for I was a long way from it, and I had done all that one solitary man, left in a wilderness as I was, could do to search for the bodies of his lost companions. Necessity now compelled me to look to myself. Wednesday, July 22. — I wrote a notice and nailed it to one of the posts of the toatti, stating what I presumed to bare happened, and that I was gone to the beaoh, it being then impossible to oross over by the •addle.

Thursday, July 23. — Went round the lake again, but no sign of anyone either living or dead.

Friday, July 24. — Started with my good old dog on my lonely way. I find it weary work paddling my raft, and the water is so deep I cannot get bottom with my pole. I got back to the Little Hohono creek, and made my raft fast. I have now lost all hope of ever seeing my companions any more. Saturday, July 25. — Left the raft in the creek, and started through the bush for the camp on the lake. Got there, and found everything as I had left it when I went away. Sunday, July 26. — Dried my blanket and the little tent, intending to start for the fuller diggings in the morning, feeling now confident that Mr. Howitt and the others had perished, for I bad been on the lake twentj-three days, and had seen no sign of any living person. They would have made a raft if they could not h*ve walked, and must have been here before this if still living. Monday, July 27. — Took my blanket and a shift of clothes, Mr. Howitt's tin of maps and papers, and started for the diggings. Got about five miles, and oamped, aa both my feet began to swell like a person with the dropsy. This . was through having been in the water so long. Tuesday, July 28.— Started again, and got as far as the big Hohono river, and canrfped. It is raining. Wtj/utday, July 29.— 1t is still raining, but I must plod along, for there is nothing to eat in this waste, and I cannot travel very fast. Went up the big creek to the dividing saddle, and camped. Thursday, July 30.— A strong, frosty wind. Got down to the junction of the Green-stone oreek. Friday, July 31.— Reached the Teramakau diggings, and, to my sorrow, found that everybody had left but the dar before. The ashes of the fire were still warm. Found flour in Simon's whare,, and" stopped there all night.

Saturday, August I.— There is no knowing when the Maori* will be back, and I must push on while the fine weather lasts, as I have to walk through the most horrible buah that I have seen to get down to tbo beach. It it but six miles, yet a man could walk twenty-six better and easier. Got about four miles down, «nd then found myself so knocked up, I could walk no farther. Each foot it now ■• big as my

Sunday, August 2. — I am, thank God, on the beach at last. I saw Maoris here, who were very kind to me, and gave me tea and dinner. Simon told me that Mr. Sharon was on the other side of the river. I was happy to hear this, aud got Simon to put me across. In going up the lagoon we met him. He was in a fine large canoe he had built, and was shooting. I got into his canoe and went with him to his whare. Glad enough was I to see some one I could speak to. I staid at his whare all night. He told me bis brother and some of his men had taken some flour to Wataka, but thut when they returned he would send them with me in his canoe forty miles up the river, and that they should see me safe over the saddle ; in the meantime, I was to stay with him, as I could scarcely walk. This was exceedingly kind. Monday, August 3. — Raining. How lucky I think myself in having got even thus far in safety. Tuesday, August 4. — Thick weather and rain. I find my feet very sore. I can scarcely stand on them.

Wednesday, August 5. — Fine weather. I proposed going up to the Grey, but Mr. Sharon said there would be a fresh in the Paroa, and that I had better stop another day. Thursday, August 6. — Two Maoris gave mo bills to give to Mr. Wyld, they having heard that Mr. Howitt was dead. The Maoris told me that Peter and a white man were going to start from the Grey for the Buller on the following day, bo that I started at once for the Grey, to try and overtake them that night. I tried to get a Maori to go with me as far as the Paroa, which is a very rapid river, between the Teramakau and the Grey. I promised him ten shillings, but, it being night, he was afraid to go, so I started alone, and got to the river at about one o'clock in the morning. The stream ran bo fast that I thought it safer to wait till daylight. I made a fire on the beach, and lay down till morning. It was very dark. I intended to make a raft if I could not ford the river.

Friday, August 7. — Weather fine. Between ten and eleven, when about to cross the river I saw two men coming towards me. They were Mr. Townseud and the chief Terapue, who were coming down to assist me up to the Grey. The old chief immediately rushed into the water, and carried my swag over, and he then wanted to carry me, but I preferred walking across, keeping hold of his hand. I had often heard what a fine old man the chief Terapue was : I proved it. I firmly believe he would risk hit life or share his last potatoe for any white man, without thought of recompense. Arrived at the Government store, Mr. Townsend made me very welcome. Saw Peter, who was going to the Buller, with some others. Saturday, August 8. I?eeltng my feet: very Bore, I induced the Maoris to wait until Monday, by getting Mr. Townsend to give them goods to the, amount of £1 out of the store, and to charge the same to me. The day ended with rain.

Sunday, August 9.— Still raining. Got stores ready for starting to-indrrow. I gave Mr. Townsend what things I had saved of Mr. Howitt's. I also gavo him an account of things on the road, and these he handed to a Maori to carry to the Buller and transmit to the Canterbury Government, I beiug unable to carry them, aad being desirous to hand them over to a representative of the Government.

Monday, August 10.— Commenced with a heavy rain and strong wind. We got Terapue to put us across the Grey, and then commenced our journey. Walked about six miles, and then camped at Waimatuku.

Tuesday, August 11. — Started again as soon bb the tide was low enough. Squally, rainy weather. Some very bad places to get round. Sometimes the surf rolled in completely over us. We had to jump from rock to rock, or run as the surf receded. Walked about ten miles, and found the tide ooming in so strongly that we camped at a place called Kararoa. Wednesday, August 12. — Started again. Climbed up a ledge of rocks to get into the bush, being unable to get round a point. Came on to blow from N.W., and rained. Camped at Pakeroa.

Thursday, August 13. — Rained hard during the night. Dried our things by the fire, and again started along a fine sandy beach till we came to a large rooky cliff, which we climbed by means of flax-ropes, put there by the Maoris ; we then crossed a large stream, and went into the bush about a mile; then came down to the beach again, and crossed another stream, where we saw a fine ship's jollyboat lying on the beach. Friday, August 14. — Fine weather. Did some very rough climbing round the points of the cliffs. Impossible to get along with shoes on, so that you must either have pararas, or walk in your stookings. Came to a very large cave, . three or four chains long, and camped there*

Saturday, August 15.— Started about three o'clock, a.m., with a fire-stick, so as to cross a very large and rapid stream at low water. Crossed the stream, and lay down in the bush till daylight. Then walked for some distance over rooks, and took to the bush, first climbing one hill, then another. Kept the bush all day, there being about fifteen miles where you cannot follow the beach, the water washing up to the face of the cliff. Came out on the beach again, and crossed another stream, and then camped for the night.

Sunday, August 16. — Fine pleasant morning. Walked about three mileß along the baach until we came to another stream where we camped till evening, it being too deep to cross until low water. We crossed, went about four miles farther, and camped for the night. Monday, August 17. — Strong showers of rain but, having eaten our last morsel of bread, hunger compelled us to face it, we being still a long day's journey from the Buller and having to walk over five miles of the worst track I have yet seen. We had to jump from one rook to another until I found myself bo weak that I was compelled to rest several times, end thus my companions got a long way ahead of me. Knowing they were hungry I did not complain. At length, losing sight of them and being unable to discover any sign of their tracks, I took one of my blankets to make myself some shelter, feeling so tired and weak that I oared not whether I died or lived, for, since the loss of my companions, I had been miserable, lonely, and wet, aud felt as though life had but few charms for me. My dog is with the Maoris ahead of me.

Tuesday, August 18. — Began pleasantly and was very clear, but I must lie where I am for a few days as I have the diarrhoea so bad that I can soarcely stir ; and, although I have neither food nor tea, I feel no anxiety about it as I do not feel hungry in the least. Wednesday, August 19. — To make my lonely situation even more desolate it has set in to raiu in torrents, so that I am deprived of even the comfort of a fire. Having lost my knife in clambering over the rocks I have nothing with which to out anything to shelter me from the rain.

Thursday, August 20. — Still raining in torrents. My blankets and I are saturated. All that I can do is to stand in this pitiless rain, which can make me no wetter, and watch the surf as it rolls towards my feet. It is impossible to get a fire. I have caught two wood-hens, for, as God sent the ravens to feed Elijah, even so these two birds came where I was, and my faithful dog, which had returned to me, caught them for me. lam thus provided with food for a day or two, and, if I can manage a fire, I 'will cook them, if not I must even eat them raw. I live in hope that the weather will clear, as the wind has changed. My faithful dog, how serviceable in many ways have you been to me ! Friday, August 21. — Got up daring the night and managed to light a fire. Stewed my birds and some sea anemones, and had a good meal, which much refreshed me. After this, though my blankets were wet through, I slept as Boundly as could a monarch on his royal couch.

Saturday, August 22. — Commenced again to rain during the night, and has every appearance of continuing, so that, considering I have still a duty to perform, I must try and reach the Buller while I have strength to walk. I may as well get wet in walking as in lying down. I cannot be far from the Buller, for I saw a steamer's smoke on Monday last, and a vessel lying-to in the bay to-day, so I left one blanket, which I had used for a tent, and started ; and, after travelling about for some time, I luckily found the track, and saw four men coming along the beach towards me : but they stopped when they saw me, and commenced to hurrah, .as though they were in search of me. This proved to be the case, for, when I got up to them, they were making a fire to boil some tea for me. They said they were the secoad party who had bern in search of mt, and it w w feawd that I had

been either drowned or starved, as they had been told that this was the sixth day I had been without food. They were furnished with provisions for Beverul days by Mr. Wuite, Buller Eiver Hotel, and were to continue their search for me, and try and ascertain if I were still living. I was happy to think I was once more near christiane, and I gladly partook of the food they had brought with them. They also gave me a glass of brandy, which I much needed, as I was still wet through and had been so for several days. After a rest and a good feed, one of the party kindly carried my swag, and we went to the Buller, where I found a boat manned by volunteers, waiting to take me across the river. Mr. Waite took me to his house, and desired me to make myself comfortable. I told Mr. Waite how I was situated, and he kindly told me to remain at his house, and that he would pay tny passage to Nelson by the first opportunity, and also give me a letter to the Superintendent to assist me on my way to Canterbury. Everybody behaved most kindly to me. All the diggers and others shook hands with me as soon as I was landed, and seemed to sympathize with mo very much, lhe doctor (Mr. Husband) offered me his services, and, altogether, I felt as though I was in another land.

Sunday, August 23. — Squally weather and rain. Thank God, I am once more among oivilized men, and have both food and shelter.

Monday, August 24. — Begins with light showers. The schooner commenced discharging to-day, so that, if the weather proves fair, I hope soon to be once more on my way to Canterbury. Tuesday, August 25. — Fine warm weather, and the place all alive with Maoris preparing to load their canoes for the different diggings. A great many diggers are waiting here to proceed up the river, so soon as the weather settles.

Wednesday, August 26. — Fine pleasant weather. About Seven o'clock our vessel got under weigh. Mr, Waite went on board with me, and paid my passage. She tripped her anchor, and, the bar being smooth, she was Boon outside in a good offing. Thank God, I am once more on my journey, and no awag to carry on my back.

Saturday, August 29. — Got into Nelson early this morning.