Classical Lines For Slim People

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXXI, 18 November 1937, Page 15

Classical Lines For Slim People

Fashion Notes

(From our London Correspondent.) After seeing the array of new fashions from the Paris and London designers' salons, I came to the conclusion that. U, once again, women can more or less wear what they like and be "in the - swim.” There is some variety in “line.” One designer has gone all classical this season. He likes the slightly dipped back si.houette, after the manner of Greek heroines. For an evening gown he drapes his material to the figure, and binds it on with bands of gold and silver. In the daytime the super-slendet, straight silhouette is insistent in the collection, and the waist-line appears to be raised almost to the bust. Actually, it is in its normal place, but a clever draped belt swathes the figure from just above the hips to just below the bust and creates the desired effect. The long line persists in coats and skirts, the braided trimmings mentioned last week helping in the suggestion of slim height. Even pockets are vertical instead of horizontal or diagonal, and they are emphasised with braid or closely set rows of tiny buttons. Hair also must come into the picture, and be bound at night with silver or gold, while the idea of waxing the waves and curls to make them “sit pretty” on the head is being taken up in Paris and, tentatively, by some of the bright spirits of London. Peasant Influence. In another house there is a suggestion of peasant costumes in various parts of Europe. Everyone who saw it approved the delicious little dress of soft black woollen materi' 1 ’ the bodice tight and laced in front over a white chiffon blouse, the three-quarter length sleeves also laced over whit chiffon undersleeves which ended in puffr at the wrists, and the skirt simply gathered and left to flow out from the waist. There were some touches of embroidery on the blouse and sleeves, and the complementary wrap was a half-length cape gathered at the neck and tied under the chin with ribbons. “Red Riding-hood,” I thought—but the hood was missing! Little Dutch caps are worn with picturesque dresses by mannequins chosen to show off some of the evening models. They are made of net or tulle, sewn with sequins or embroidered with metal | threads, the stiffened “wings’ ’at the - sides making charming frames for young faces. A La Victoria. To the regal touch now. The Victorian era is recalled by models shown in yet another salon, where there are shawllike tops to day dresses, fichus, and berthes in profusion. The draperies are very dainty, and in the evening the “off the shoulder” corsage line is kindly to the flawless skin. Ruffled skirts are shown here, and' ruffles on the bodices. One model that made an immediate appeal was in blush ros pink chiffon, the bodice moulded to the figure from the top of the corsage to the hip line, and the natural waist marked by a swathe of the chiffon and a cluster of deeper pink roses.. The draped berthe was edged with a ruffle of chiffon in the deeper tone of the flowers, which were used again as a finish in the centre front. On the full skirt gathered to the Ginger Scones. Two breakfastcups sugar, J breakfastcup milk, 1 teaspoon ginger, 2ozs. butter, 1 tablespoon syrup, 2 teaspoons baking powder. Mix the dry ingredients, rub in the butter, make a well in the centre and stir in the syrup anu milk. Mix to a fairly stiff dough, roll out and cut into shapes. Bake 10 minutes in a hot oven. Light Christmas Cake. VOne pound sultanans, lib. currants, lib. raisins. Jib. mixed peel, 3ozs. crystallised cherries, Jib. almonds, butter lib., flour ljlb., baking powder 2 teaspoons, sugar lib., eggs 10, brandy 1 wineglass. Cream the butter and add the sugar; add the

From Europe

bodice, were four deeper pink chiffc s ruffles at equal distances apart, the la - one at the hem which just missed tl floor. , Perhaps black best shows off the Vii * torian influence so far as the older wt man is concerned, though numbers ( , the smart set who have reached tl ' forties still choose white and the of . white shades, and look very well i them. Rather stiff silks are used f< g some of the gowns, but models f< j young people arc made, variously, i cotton or silk muslin, chiffon, net, ar velvet. The velvet ones, in pastel tone are delicious. ' t Millinery Modes. Some of the new hats arc decided | queer! There arc bonnets rather lil 1 those worn by probationer nurses, at: others resembling hospital sisters’ hea< 1 dresses. Models like inverted sugar ba, j vie with those that look like craz; coal scuttles with the “pitching” par turned down over the eyes. The Mexict 1 influence is seen in a chapeau with r slightly conical crown and a fairly broc brim turned up all round. This is gay, reckless looking model, to be adop ■ ed with caution by anyone not qui

eggs unbeaten one by one; sift the flour and add the baking powder to this, and " stir. Then add the fruit, etc. This is a ’ cake that many people like, and the 1 “light” certainly does not mean anything 3 anaemic. Use a well-lined tin and bake - at least five hours. Start at 350 deg. F. 3 and reduce to 300. ) Mincemeat. One pound finely chopped suet, lib. currants washed and picked, lib. raisins stoned and quartered, 11b. chopped apples, lib. castor sugar, Jib. sultanas, :Jlb. shredded mixed peel, 2 lemons, J gill brandy, A saltspoon each nutmeg, mace and cinnamon. Pare the lemons thinly, simmer the rinds in a little water

certain of the ability to dress up to it. There are veils of all kinds and all lengths, some almost covering the face, all dropping over the eyes, and many 311 floating down the back to the waist. ist Ribbons flutter at the back, too, and one 3e modiste decided on a pigtail effect witli plaited strands tied at the ends like a c “ schoolgirl’s coiffure in bygone days. °* Berets are back—not that they have ever entirely disappeared—and some are 3e good to look upon, though some are not. The exaggerated ones, stiffened, pulled ln very much forward, and rising on one or side to an unusual height, are difficult or to wear and not altogether attractive to of sefi. The modified version is better, especially in black with a twist of gold ;s > or silver cord sewn round the edge and worked into a bow at one side. Summing Up. So far as fashion has gone this season, ly it may, perhaps, be summed up by one ke or two impressions received, id Women with willowy figures, will no d- doubt, adopt the classic line, long and gs slender, with no “fussiness.” They will y- probably follow the Greek inspiration •ts with evening gowns, and be severely an simple in their day clothes, a Those to whom the classic does not ad appeal have an alternative in the full a frocks, with swathed bodices and gathit- ered skirts, and as much ruching and te frilling as they like.

until perfectly tender, then pound them or rub them through a line sieve. Mix all the ingredients well together, press into a jar, cover closely, and keep in a cool dry place. Pineapple Fruit Cake. Raisins Jib., sultanas Jib., currants -Alb., cherries Jib. (or less), lemon peel Gozs., dates Jib., ginger Alb. (or less), almonds Alb., pineapple large tin of fruit, butter jib., sugar jib., eggs 6, flour Jib., cinnamon 1 teaspoon, nutmeg .} teaspoon, mixed spice 1 teaspoon, essences, brandy l cup. Prepare the fruit as usual, dredging lightly with flour. Drain the pineapple, and chop into large chunks 8 to 12 to the slice. Prepare in the same way

(From our Sydney Correspondent.) , The question of men’s dress reform i: a time-honoured annual which can bt ' expected to rear it’s multi-coloured hear in all kinds of places and knows no dost season. 1 Furiously as the controversy rages, in :, general decision as to the lasting desiray bility of such unstable fantasies as coat with cape sleeves and bias-cut peplum: c seem likely to be reached, i The exaggerated yodel hat and wildly i improbable tuxedo is doomed, along will similar sartorial bits of nonsense, to t i short life but a gay one, according tc i Mr. George Fuller, who himself is at al • times all that a well-dressed young mar 1 should be. : Mediaeval jerkins and peasant sabot t are all very well for those with the ) white light of fanaticism blazing in thcii ’> eyes, but the average man, Mr. Fullei 1 is willing enough to admit, is a sad doj 1 for convention. But here is news. Tails just as they gave every indication o reaching floor-length within the next six , months, arc now on the up-grade, anc ’ the move at the moment is for shortei and better tails, and freer and bettej j stair ascents by those who wear them j For, as Mr. Fuller explains, people arc 1 getting tired of walking on their tail; 7 every time they go upstairs. f Miss Deetje Andriesse’s artistic eye would see the introduction of still more t colour, plus added informality, in the 1 beach-wear worn by men. She suggest: - the fine gay effect achieved by lots am d lots of coloured shirts and the bead sandals worn by almost every man oi

as for the lighter cake, adding the essences and brandy last. Cook for 4J hours, starting at 350 deg. F. and reducing to 275 deg. F. after the cake is in the oven. “Quay Tart” Scones. One pound flour, 2 dessertspoons sugar, cup milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 3or.s. butter, 1 egg, 4 teaspoons baking powder. Mix bour, baking powder, salt and butter together. Beat the egg. Add milk and sugar and stir until the latter is dissolved. Mix with the dry ingredients, roll out, cut, dip in milk and then in sugar. Place on trays with sugar on top. Bake 10 to 15 minutes in a very hot oven.

the beaches of the south of France. For i s night wear, Miss Andriesse is definitely )e in favour of midnight blue, which, she ( ] adds, is a so much better black than ;c black itself. However, for the summer, Miss Andriesse has no doubts about the supremacy of while mess jackets, and , like the majority of women, can't under- " stand' the peculiar mental make-up that makes men swelter rather than break away from tradition. . Definitely anti-dress reform, in its a higher flights of fancy, is Mrs. Cliff Kitchen, who holds most strong opinions j°j on the desirability of utter convention n in men’s dress. She maintains that the secret of the well-dressed man, as well as the secret of the well-dresed woman, lies in the fact that there must be no- ., thing so outstanding from the whole ensemble that it will catch the eye. And —this is a refreshing opinion from a woman whose own dressing is charming j —Mrs. Kitchen finds equally as much pleasure in contemplating the appearance of a well-groomed man as she does in that of an exquisitely-gowned woman. ’ Fresh from her trip to Singapore, Mrs. Kitchen is still another booster for the white mess jacket, particularly that as j s worn by the Englishman in the East. Miss Valerie Hay, English leading lady of the “Over She Goes” company, offers e the following as her idea of the perfectly e suited city man: Navy suit, white silk 1(3 shirt, and blue tie, with white polka dots or blocked scarlet figures. 's* The prospect of a wardrobe of shirts, ranging the colours of the sunset sky, ,n fills Mr. George Gee with well-nigh insupportable horror. Both on and off the stage he clings to a variety of chaste pencil stripes in his shirting materials, and, though a comedian, insists in his own life, on definitely “straight” clothes.