TWO SIDES OF THE CANVAS

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXI, 27 October 1928, Page 12

TWO SIDES OF THE CANVAS

-.the '-Plain and the PICTURESQUE 'IN DRESS

'jjiaira "The Mail”)

;• Gau you ‘imagine the. momentary feeling of relief flw-t would follow somo .such announcement as this: “Gowns will be cntrV'dy untrimmed this sea-,, son, and will'be built oli'lines reminiscent of tu smart uniform!”- t Goiiiing f'tom a‘cominittee formed' of recognised ' dress aiithOrifie'S Avli'b were,' for "-once, all’ of onef-inirid, we should ifOc'opt the dec roe; act;upon it;,-.' and consign our dress i Nyorries to Hpino. of 'fOrfrottes' things—for a' ' jjirae! Of course we should Stake up again, realise that Wc looked like a regiulent of soldiers rather than a company of individual, women, and promptly start an agitation for “'something new.”

But it is not ’likely ! tp ‘happen.‘Not in our generation at aiiy ’-rate! For' one thing, ■tilfe designer's are .inost decidedly not all of ope mind! One or two very famous . petipTe | advocate the relatively unfrimmeiVfrock as, for instance, he who uses nothing hut insertions of' lifiStitfi-jal .dn r *his.;.!hipst distinetive day models. Take the gown in night blue silk .'as; an example: it is plain, almost to the point of severity, rand cut on diagonal lines that woiild.lend an air of tail sjimness oven td a ahort am! dumpy figure. In*' sertions of. marocai'n just one shade lighter‘-give this desirable, line; sweep-: ing -from right •shoulder across to left hip and from right hip to left hem. A'diT, a ceihiure of’iharocain. inCtlie two, sha'dds Tasfcehed with a rhiliestone buckle*—and there is the ideal untrimmed goAvn. , , • ; .

You exploit a similar idea; with one of the reversible satins whijh atef stj jl‘'very;- rpjisf.in (evidence -jn-i the* drqpiii a jkcjrs’ ( wt&kr'ooßtg.Thiagihe ? 'a v frock'in ,loaf green,, in honey colour, or ;gold,;with'’ diagonal in-ser^.drta’.of-ritheelteyo'BSe: side udf.; the;' fabiSE'Exquisite! .f THiNftHftE:l3?odg l W opc ’whose Word 'is I&w-ifiiffoh'seieet coterie of well-'dressed women. He‘pro-i ducef' his trial model, "as ,it w¥re, iii] black ,bVt])e r ßft chine, by is in every chic Darisienne’s vvaiflttfbn tins season.;The 'blouse .had, ratlfpC Wide vertical : tudks •tuh'rfihjg TriJiir shotildars to waist on cither , side of a narrow flat .front panel s fastq'ncd with haft a dosjfen .tiny pearl-'btfttbfis.-.Toitfed to this’ at the normal waist was" a pleated skirt, the ''pleats continuing the . lines of the tutha ttiid'-sfcitched as far as the knees. A white etope turnover; collar at tllo throat,, white cptVs to tie long sleeves and a \jfety../riatrbw - * white' kid’ belt - sound the *wais'b coin-, pleted as ncat<a little magpie toilette’ as I have seen this year. t Then there is the navy blue morning dress, cut with,a skirt that fits the, hips like the proverbial glove and flares aomurelv and very slightly to the hem. TlTr. chief Vpbinfc .'of interest, however, centres behind }th.b bodice, which is cut high at the back and. in a deep. Yin front, the-V revealing a hemstitehed'Vest. Wf ’beige' (georgette. A roll collar, in red (fil'd •hedge Roman striped silk'terminates iii a shaped ‘bib’ that looks, like a curtailed w.aistcbkt, and is adorned with three' smalt reel buttons'. Smart ami ii im enough-to please the most #ai'ping errtic or feminine ; flu 10ness. - ■ * ‘ . " ' FRTLT.S AN-D -FI^F'YFFS The other side of• tffc!’canvas tells quitedifferent 'Story.- Here /the-jpeopk \ who adore fIuSV frillS'&n'd'flbtnices have' painted the picture. AniS,tydu would hesitate always foibc‘dressed*in strict-; ]v tailor-made clothes qUyoii, saw some of the n»w models-riiit transparent velvet! Light as crepe’ dot clune’ airy as. chiffon, yet posscssiiig^jllsit^tlic'-note of superb richness ' which e'nth'or materials lack it is indeed'tile fairy fabric. Plain and patterned, it'*'used for day toilettes a* weld’ as evening

FMII©Ig|LS

creations; for draped models as well •as bouffant' ones; for sophisticated young 'matrons’ gowns and for unsophisticated'nutids’ frocks. If you can manage it, ‘include a transparent velvet -frock in four wardrobe. 'As for tbc dance dress of your dreams, 'why not copy this French model; skirt, 'bouffant, billowy and nearly, ankle length, made of horizontal rows of eoOl pale.green satin ribbon of' almost incredible softness, alternating, with rows-of tulle hr.the same delicate shade., "Where tulle and ribbon join, lines of : silver stitching-lend an additional -touch of sparkling charm. The bodice is ' a tucked -one, of the !grCeu'f tille,-the tucks run by hand with •'filter .thfenji. A' green rind -silver SlioUlder ‘posy, a gfceit -tulle sash hemmed -with silver, silver - shoes and pale green silk stockings—long live femiriine fripperies! MAEiifU"suipFoyers at ho&e (By Priscilla Itayqe)

- The ffifs't-time you .your own slip covgrs, do not-choose expensive' (.-retbrine ‘in 'ease you make mistakes. •■Quite ■>?, j*dOd Washing material may lie had -fbr Is Sfl. a 'yard! 1 "bought some very pretty cretonne at this price quite ree&itly, 'fftfd used 'it to make slip covers f’dr 'two diliing room armchairs and si?. , ordinary - chairs. The -'result is. .all'tlw't could be-desired! THE VmST T'illNTr TO DO Wlieh ypp cqritemplaTe -jriajring slip drivers, unless ydiy. have 'old covqrs Which ybu can unpick ahd use ah pat--terns, yri'u must make -wjjat is calleda"#Aib pattern. For Ithjh 'you "will -heed to collect -st»jie: -large riheets of : .•Brriwh' 'Jfe'per Jarifl, ffiVihg florie sb, 'hold one ijgainst the flmch'ajr .or -settee to he covered and drib <ilo'ng : the edges until fon -have .the- outlipe of the /piece of femtyre . (takfcg Oar'e -to follow the seaihs - ;i)i; the ■ upholstery) -upon the pjaper. Allow half ap inch, at’least, for timings‘andithen cut-your .phper pattern. Froii) this -paper -pattern cut your material, pin the pieces together and fit the cover .on the /furniture, as yOu r?dtil'd,-!a Trock on .a -person. Do riot fdfjjet’jiftitt Aifhipfe' a ‘ cljcsteiffield Or h_ sjiflMgyhittea dM'eliairhs-todie covered,/ ypti wiil’heed- fiik'br sevdh inches dxtra! of -tllh ‘nidtbfial to Tlfck .in ddivn tlie hack arid-si’de'sFjfhiiy’portion of chair' or -settee ! is ’larger ¥t 'the top than W the bottom remember also that ’Openings with .press studs must be arranged. ' •

•The best why to liiiike tile seatas 6f slip drivers “is >to ftake ! both ?atv edges• apd tlim -theth to the wrong-side. Prb-{ cried then ’to tack ’these on the right side, about one-eighth of an inch in. : Tjack all seams and try the cover again oil the chair or settee to make sure .it' fits before finally machine -stitching the whole. • ?

j The easiest fastenings tp use are press studs, though tapes or hooks and eyes are 'preferred -by sduie.