FROM A PARISIENNE'S NOTEBOOK

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXI, 4 August 1928, Page 10

FROM A PARISIENNE'S NOTEBOOK

THE LONGKIi SKIRT (By Yvonne Itodicr —for "The Mail".) The swathed. dipping effect of the longer skirt is the characteristic most to he noted just now in the eveningdress salons of Paris. There is no doubt that it adds infinite grace and dignity to the alluring chic of the modern robe de soiree. High in fav-

our ara the all-black or all-gold sequined models which . spell the last-word in sumptuous sartorial luxury. Exquisitely embroidered models are also in the van of fashion. Decolletage achieves its most modish note in the deep V back and front. Characteristic treatments are .glittering black jet and sequin gowns with capes of silver lace and en- suite iurbans of silver lame, and golden gowns that in many instances have wing-like scarves of black tulle,-a motif repeated in the train at the hack. As is usual on the Continent when the season is in full swing, the evening turban and the chapeau de soiree . have their smart sponsors. Numbers of the dressier forms of headgear creations are adorned with aigrettes and ospreys, arranged with a new grace;.sometimes imparting the iridescence of jewelled tips to a jetted turban. A lovely all-green ensemble illustrates the wonderful chic-of a soft-ly-draped jetted turban trimmed with chartreuse-green shaded aigrettes.

COLOURS AND MODES New evening capes in black satin or moire, with ermine. trimmings, play ah important role on. the. stage, of La Mode A long coat of black satin with narrow facings of ermine and a lining of white crepe, do chine is "bien mise" ; over a white satin gown. White, incidentally, figures largely iii the sartorial festival. One very out-of-the-ordinary demi-toilette in .white taffetas has a most picturesque corsage with short sleeves, and is gauged round the waistline, below which the silk - flares out into stiff folds. There is the inevitable dip at the back, and the scalloped edge is finished with a transparent hem of black, which note is repeated in a voluminous but ethereal scarf of black tulle. Draped tightly round the shoulders, it falls in billowy folds down the back. Such scarves arc outstanding fantasies among the present whimsies. Lingerie is receiving extra-special attention now that more feminine frocks are in vogue. Cambric and lawn have come into their .own again; and it is

significant that exquisite trimmings and insertions of hand embroideries and rare laces are part of the newssfyle attractions. There has not been such lingerie elegance, in fact, since pre-war days. The newer princess petticoats are much used as underslips. Fragile and exquisite,' they are entirely composed of chiffon and lace. / The modern dressmaker and the jeweller continue to work together. Sports j&vcllery, now eminently permissible and strictly in accordance with tho edicts of good taste, includes tubes of gold and silver, and links of pteel rr silver, joining narrow bauds of crocodile, lizard or suede. There are also plaited gold and silver and old pinchbeck chains. Afternoon ensembles are naturally graced by more decorative jewellery, with diamond* and onyx still achieving an easy lead, tlioiiL'li all-black or fill-white frocks ire i delight fully adorned with moonstones find""diamonds. For the toilette de fohce. imitation "tones in "sympathetic" colouring are* adroitly worked t* ft pattern. CAMOUFLAGING WITH CURLS If AIR-C ROWING DIFFICULTIES OVERCOME T|„. recent arguments for and iiuninst the shingle and the bob have left girls quite unmoved. Tf they pre-

i FASHIONS, | FRILLS, awl i - "FIIRBELOWS.

for long tresses, they will grow them, quite indifferent to the opinions expressed, by those who have been drawn into the controversy. If you prefer long .haiiv and are therefore allowing yours to grow, you will find the fashionable little curls your greatest friends during the difficult "half-and-half" period. You can do wonders with them And, since everyone knows you were shingled but a few weeks ago—and you know they know !—there is no deception in buyhi"- a bunch of "corkscrews" and fastening it in the nape of the neck to cover up the unsightly straggling ends of vour own hair. ' When you have grown enough '•crowning glory" to use your own curls, have them treated by a good hair-dresser who will apply a fixing lotion to the provocative ringlets after having coaxed them into proper submission. Here are three charming ways of using artificial curls in the meantime: If you happen to be of the regular-fea-tured, patrician type, cluster them over the slide which holds together the growing ends in the nape of the neck brushing the hair softly hack from tin forehead and over the ears. The 31a donna-like beauty can still regain he) centre parting 'if she wears a group of ringlets over each ear to hide the loose ends .of natural hair which are gathered at either side into a special clip. The'row-of curls round the back of the head from ear to ear will suit most girls, especially in the very early stages of transition, when the hair is not long enough ;to gather together either at the centre-back or at the sides. ■ •,.•'.. '; ■;■ MOMENTARY MUSINGS' There is n certain quality of ; mental reserve and. temperamental ; 'shyness: that can seldom break, the ice of conversation; but'that" of ten can express itself admirably and "Beautifully in the written word. Somo of the letters most cherished, and most often ipc-read oy their recipients, are those that have .been penned by timid talkersJvyho do not. shine, in. oral gymnaaticsV ;\ ';■ In this loquacious world there xn> and always-have been any number of people! who are ready to .burst into cheap eloquence on the smallest provocation. Words, words, words;. And little else. Small wonder that 'natural shyness, and the reserve of a deeper mental profundity, sink more deeply into their native 'shell, to remains beyond the-, casual reach of the eh'atteringniagpie mind! " ■- ■'."' 'V V M.deF, A POLISHER; AND DUSTER IN ONF

Almost as magic as Aladdin's _ lamp are-'the now self-contained polishing cloths, which -will quickly cleanse metal, glass,. wood, and leather, without the help.of'metal polish or furniture cream, , "• The: secret Ties in the chemical compound with which they are impregnatd. Tliiis. preparation is odourless and non-greasy, and is guaranteed to remain active for 12 months onmore. : The cloths are beautifully. soft and are made in six varieties for different purposes. There, are specially large ones for cleaning and polishing wind screens, the body work of motors, etc., arid smaller .sizes for the home. One variety contains jeweller's rouge and is suitable for gold and silver plate. Even the finger nails have been remembered! For them there is an extra soft, .grade, delicately perfumed and tinted pink. ABOUT CAKE MAKING PRACTICAL HINTS FOR THE COOK • (By Martha Magnus.) The baking tin should be prepared before the cake is mixed. Grease it with melted suet applied with a pastry brush; this is .better.;tban butter, which is apt to make the cake burn or stick to the tin.'lf suet is not available use lard. After greasing, sprinkle the tin with a mixture of equal parts of flour and fine sugar. This saves the trouble of lining with paper and.prevents the cake from sticking. Forsma.ll cakes,'flour the tins: instead of greasing If the cake sticks, in spite of these precautious wrap a wet cloth round the sides and bottom of the tin for a few -minutes and it will turn out quuc well. To prevent a cake from burning, or sinking when cooking, stand a tin full of water at the back of the oven and do not bang the oven door.

Look well to the Hour. It it scorns luiupv and sticks together, it is probably 'damp. Ury it in a very cool oven and sift before use. The liavour of currants and sultanas is greatly improved by covering them with boiling water and leaving to soak over-night, Drain the fruit, and dry it in the oven before adding to the other ingredients. When using eggs in a cake, instead of mixing them with milk after well beating, try adding a little hot water. When "baking, place another tin over the cake. It will bake evenly without burning, and you can leave it without attention until it has had time to cook. IV THE CAKK IS OVERDONE _ if your cake is overdone, wrap it, whiie'warm. in a clean cloth and leave for half an hour. This steams and softens the hard crust. If actually burnt, rub very lightly, while still hot, with a nut meg grater which will easily remove' the burnt crust. To keep a cake fresh put a piece of bread, or an apple, into the tin in which it is stored. When testing your cake to sec if it is sufficiently cooked never forget to heat the knife or skewer; otherwise the cake may go heavy in the middle.