FASHIONS FRILLS AND FURBELOWS

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXI, 14 January 1928, Page 9

FASHIONS FRILLS AND FURBELOWS

NEW VERSIONS IN SKIRTS TJanio Fashion,-in the French capital, manifests her mood mainly in the realm of skirts. There are new versions of the unoven hem line; and new "lifted" and "dipping" movements, illustrated in all manner of arresting ways. And there are godots galore. It is interesting to note that the Bilhouette manages •to look slimmer than over despite the universal skirtfullness that has been decreed by the big designers. "Bunched" hips and draperies' curiously accentuate the

STYLISH FRENCHWOMEN * - NOTES ON THE LATEST MODES FBOM A PARISIENNE’S NOTEBOOK

general' impression of sylph-like grace. ft is all in the magic of tie cut, which ■to-day is more important than it has ;• <sver been.'And it is the genius herein displayed which achieves ultimate ' simplicity out of complicated draperies .'.'■' and elaborate trimmings. ~ The choice of colours also assists the slim impression. Autocratic couturieres simply refuse to allow their clients to\ , hanker After any colour that may increase the. effect of size. And we have one, all-sufficient reason why

black continues to claim the affections of the Parisienne. Both for day and ; evening'wear it remains unchallenged. V'lt is the toilet de soiree, however, that more particularly emphasises the allure of the sable hue: Black evening gowns present most* charming features. A Vumber of black laco frocks have aprons of wide pleats which extend to long -panels at the sides. The scalloped and draped bolero lends its lastword chic to other attractive models. The high, decolletage in front seems to be the mode übiquitous, so to speak, as is the deep V that reveals a considerable section 'of the wearer's back.. 'As one great dressmaker put it, with somewhat frankness, backs are prettier than fronts since '■ starvation diet flattened feminine .'Curves;*'' ''■■ " > ' )."

DISTINCTIVE MARKS •Necklines and. sleeves continue to. play their important role in "dating" the last-word; creations. Garments that would 'pass muster as current modes are "given away," alas, by their failure to comply with the newest cuff-and-collar decrees. For collars and cuffs are features of the modern gown; as are neck-openings and the shaping of the sleeves. For daytime wear, there is the choice of the square, or the extrided "round," or the softly, folded high collar. For evenings, light jewelled shoulder straps curve inwards so as not to slip off the shoulders; a detail that is all-important, and emphasises a distinct tendency towards this narrowed effect. For young girls the mud) wider, round neckline is first favourite. It is cut very low. with au inner "tucker" of oldworldish charm. Quite one "of the most fascinating whimsies of La Mode is the revival of old-time darning stitchery in gold, silver, and metal threads.. This charming conceit inspires most of the French jumper-suits and ensembles that proclaim themselves the dernier cri. Typical illustrations of the vogue included a mushroom-hued jumper worked all over in silver and . delicate! pink, threads; and a suit in green and silver thread edged with crepe de clunc and trimmed with tiniest silver buttons. Diamonds are having a tremendous vogue in Paris. Curiously enough, it is by day that they appear at their most attractive best, when mixed with the equally fashionable onyx. I hear rumours that turquoises, erstwhile the jewellery rage, are shortly to be replaced by rubies. WHAT OF HOSPITALITY? (By Edith M. Alinedingen) The old, old mpnasteries of Russia were one of her wonders, not so much because of* their beautiful buildings and often invaluable libraries, but because of their unrivalled hospitality.

(By Yvonne Rodier)

'■■/ Among these oases of perfect peace few were more attractive than Valaaui, the 'big Island of Saints' on the Ladoga Lake, north of St. Petersburg. To get there, you went along the Neva in a huge boat, manned by very agilo cacsoeked sailors. When the boat threw anchor, the seven days' wonders began. A lay brother would pick up your luggage and take you to the guest house, the windows of which overlooked the lake. You were allotted your room and solemnly informed about meal-hours. Men sat at the monks' own table in the refectory, but women-guests had everything brought to their rooms. Usually you arrived at Valaam in the morning and could begin exploring at onct. With very few exceptions, the community was self-supporting. Clothes and furniture they made, and they grew their own rye, and fashioned Various kinds of cutlery and crockcry. They would take,.you to their 'prosvirnaya' and there you would see the siiow-wliito 'prosfora' (altar breads) being made. And you would go into, the low-ceilingcd* many-win-dowed 'ikonopisnaya,' fragrant with the smell of pine wood and oils, where monks, young/and old, sat at their easels and painted lovely ikons. Then you would go back to thp guest house and a melodious silver bell announced the dinner hour. Soup, fish (never any meat), and fruit in three spotlessly clean white bowls, placed on a carved wooden tray, would be brought into your room by a lay brother! "Eat that Christ may send you health;" the monk would bow and withdraw.All around the big 'Mother-Island' "lay tiny islets, once the sheltering places of great northern Baints, now secluded 'skity' or cells for those monks who wished to keep themselves quite aloof from any distractions. Excursion boats there were on Valaam which Avould take you to all those places, and when at last the day of return drevf near; you felt as though a; week has been barely sufficient to take it all in. The woods,and the rocks lured you; the sombre beauty of the dark grey cliffa inspired you with a^ve. And then came the surprise. They had lodged you and fed yoii and taken every care of you, but they would make no claim on your purse. 'lt .matteredi nothing to them whether you were a pauper or a millionaire. You were allowed to give a donation, of course, and it would be received with most touching gratitude, entireindependent of the amount given; If you could give nothing, you; were welcome to; all they could give. Cases there were when the Tgumen' (Abbot) would actually supply some of the "needy pilgrims with their return fare to Petrograd. The only thing thoy cared for was that you should get your week of seven peaceful days; ;if you got it, 'it sufficed' them, as a kind-eyed sailor-monk once told me.