News for Women.

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXI, 9 October 1926, Page 3

News for Women.

!hJ' ; '" The Mail's Pans Letter. T>( -——■l-HMH yWWWWWWBWMtII HI I ■ !—■■ ■■■».■■■■ I■ I lllftHWHlfl

(By Yvonne Eodier)

Fan:, is full of new notions in evcn- ; ng dress. In several models ono notes a decided dip at Hie back in respect or skirts, which are vouuded off-in front to display ■> harmoniously contrasting un-der-dress. The -period" note, in fael, is increasingly prevalent. Thus quite an old-world' 'regal nir is achieved hy a plain silver-grey salin skirt revealing an under-dress of 'fine cream lace, with a sleeveless bolero of la.ee similarly rounded off to show an exquisitely-made coinlure; elaborately jewelled, of sapphire velvet. The bolero feature is much in evidence, and looks wonderfully distinquished 'and "bien mise" when shaped with a rounded front fashioned of transparent black net. ifrimmed with diamante to be worn over a. smart restaurant frock in the prevailing tulle, with an equally smart hat. At restaurants where" "daiisniils" .ire the main attraction, velvet millinery appears to he the choice of all the best dressed dancers, and the hat displayed is a galaxy of bright colours. Velvet turbans in a darker tone of the frock are a much favoured mode. And stock ings to match the gown are worn with black shoes. A lovely new red shade is exactly the tint Virgin/tin creeper takes on' when it is "turning." and 1 noted a very full and "llouriey" chiffon frock in this alluring hue, worn with one of the übiquitous turbans, beautifully matching in a deeper shade, while.

'he stockings wore en suit*, with a lighter tone of the frock- Ea.u-de-nil and myrtle is a not her prevalent alliance.; as well as all the infinite range of the. cyclanicn-to-petunia family. A very deep "V" characterises Iho cut of most of the evening decollelages, hack and friinl ; and il can be very narrow or vcrj wide, according In the wearer''! l.nste. Rut whatever Ihe contour-- "V or 11"' rounded oval stylobacks are distinctly low. Tbo deep transparent yokes In which I have made previous reference are more than ever in evidence, and are now elaborately beaded. The beauty and variety of these beaded designs seems to presage I heir inclusion in tho autumn mode, for millinery as well as gowns . The shops are full of wonderful colour displays. llrcen and white is still a conspicuous alliance, front jersey cloth tn floral voile, as also is vivid scarlet and white and an orango and whito check design. For smart morning wear, the tailor-mades hold their own with the more elaborate toilettes, and the chic little accompanying waistcoat in net or organdie provides a welcome note of variety amid the eternal beiges and qimker-greys. 'Composition" tennis courts in their varying .shades of ved, green and dark" brown, are influencing colour choice in tennis frocks. TI»o tennis "exquisite," who in France is as keen on her appearance as her game, likes to choose an eau-de-nil kit for a brown hard court. For grass lawn play she prefers to remain faithful to immaculate white. On a hard green court, however, you will find Mademoiselle disporting herself in a tennis toilette oT delicate pink; and pale primrose yellow appears to have a special attraction for red rubble-court racquet artists.

The pleating of tennis skirts is carried out in all sorts of new ways. Often there are contrasted inserted bands of colour in a. cream or white jupe.lo tone in with the coloured jumper worn with it; and the little tennis pull-on hat? picks up the samo colour noto by way of emphasis. The evening gown pictured herewith is of the. type so popular amongst ingenues—with the full, Huffy skirt. It is n, stylo equally suited to (hose of what might bo termed "riper years," always provided they are not short of stature, and inclined to embonpoint. It was fashioned of shell-pink chiffon and embroidered in silver, and very dainty it looked on a fair slender mannequin. The alternative to the fluffy style of garment is the draped wiug-like effect, cut invariably with a low "V" back, and some limes a high front, or at others, a more moderate "V" to match the. back. These frocks have the advantage that they can be worn by the young, and what wo have now agreed to call the "not so young" with equally good effect, (ho draperies, etcetera, being modified or increased, to suit individual styles. In this category we always find the block chiffon frock looking par-

lieulariy attractive, and it. is illo kind nf dross dial should figure in the wardrobe of evory well-dressed woman. Shaded chiffon is another alluring' material employed in the, fashioning of both afternoon and evening gowns. You start, for instance, with a skirt of deepest, purple, and end with a. bodice which is the palest mauve at tho neck, taking oi throughout the. gown, every possible shade of mauve and purple; The same idea, applied to shell-pink .'hading to crimson, nf » frock embracing all the shades of green or yellow results in wonderful cltecls These little frocks are byno means cheap—nor, for that, matter, do they look H ! 1 Shaded chiffon handkerchiefs to match, follow .is a. matter of course in the ease of the smart Parisieimc, for the colour win ititi must, not. he. interfered with in ;inv wav, even bv s" small a thin- as ;/ handkerchief.' This, In he perfectly right." should In- worn luck ed in a icucllml ' hand mil" bracelet. DKLOKATiYK GLASS (By Mrs Hamilton) The great jars and tall spherical I owls of tinted giass that are beginning to come tu us from Italy are relatively new and oli'er immense possibilities for interior decoration. Many of these jars are in tumbler form on a large scale and bear a. type of decoration that dimly suggests tin? 'tear'' ornament of the early glass-ware. These are intended for holding tree branches and twigs. Their effect is excellent, when placed upon a staircase window or on a wooden tripod again a French window. In every ease they show to best advantage when the glass is seen directly against. the light: otherwise much of tho beauty of colouring is lost. Other shapes recall the rotund wine buttles of the. South; oihcr examples are four-sided und are copied fjolll antique specimens surviving from the 16th century and an even earlier period. The colouring of the glass is very subtle. There is u faint blue, like the tint of a moon-sapphire and when this is decorated with a series of applied di'ops; a deeper tone is imparted to the glass. Then there is the "spring green" just the colour of the leaves that burst from their buds in the month of April; and the "straw" colour that is yellow with a lingo of green iu it. When the glasses are filled with water the tone is intensified. What is known as bronze" glass is a. sort of amethyst with a faint dull iridescence on the surface. This is very lovely for use in looms with ;i mauve colour scheme. GOOD FAMILY CAKES ATTRACTIVE AND ECONOMICAL Vinegar .Cake.--This has tho advantage, of requiring no eggs. The ingredients are: j|Jb of flour, 3ozs sultanas, 3ozs ctirrautti, bozs sugar, 6ozs good beef dripping, £-pint of milk,, 3 lablespoonsfdl of vinegar and one tcaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda. Rub the dripping into the flour; add the. fruit and sugar. J'lace tho milk o\er tho lire and allow to get nicely warm. Add tho vinegar to the milk, which will then curdle as it should do, and afterwards add the carbonate of soda. Stir quickly and pour into the cake mixture. After a few more, stirs, pour into a well-greased till, leaving plenty of room for tho cake to rise, and bake in a moderately hot oven for an hour and a half. This cake is much improved by being kept for a. few days in a, tin, prior to cutting. Soda. Cake.—lngredients: of flour, i-lb of good beef dripping, Bozs sugar, 6ozs currants, 2 eggs, j-pint of warm milk, a teaspoonful of mixed spice, g-saltspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of Boda. Rub the dripping well and lightly info the, flour; add tho other dry ingredients. Beat up the eggs and add them. Warm the milk, to which add the bicarbonato of soda, then pour into tho cake mixture. Mix quickly and well. Jut into one large or two medium-sized cake tins (well greased) and bake in a fairly hot oven for the first half an hour, and a moderate one for tho next hour. Genoa Cake.—lngredients: jjlbs flour, £lb sugar, £lb sultanas, ilb currants, Alb butter, 4 eggs, 1 eggspoonful of powdered cinnamon, A-lb of mixed peel and the grated rind of a lemon. Mix all the ingredients together with tho butter (previously creamed) arid then stir in the well beaten eggs. Pour the mixture into a. tin which has been wall greased and lined with greased paper. Bake in a, moderate, oven for an hour to an hour and a. quarter. When done, brush the top of the cake over with the whisked-up white of an egg to which has been added one fablespoonful of castor sugar. Shake some finely chopped almonds on top and return to the oven just to brown the almonds. F. SMITH. A FEMININE FIELD DAY WITH A LIMITED ALLOWANCE (By Carol Emerson) If the allowance is limited, and the need for refurnishing the wardrobe is urgent, try the psychological effect of restricting expenditure to the minimum in respect of outside raiment, and "blowing'' 'he balance ou lingerie! It is wonderful how the re-furbished gown of yesterday takes on a fresh allure when slipped over a brand-new foundation. Dainty lingerie eoou induces a mood of philosophical content that contemplates last year's hats and frocks with unassailable equanimity. The "undies" displayed these days in

the big shops make one realise what our grandmamas must have missed ! One wonders how they could have endured tho calicoes and flannels whose one merit was their qualify of endurance. That things should 'last.' is tho last thing we ask of (hem nowadays! And the first is that they should possess charm, ('harm doesn't "go" with those dreadful life-service materials and workmanship that .make a new lingerie no (ion a. crime. And it, is these notions that constitute the allure of the modern fantasies, at.d give an added lease of life to somewhat tired top-garments. "Give me a. packet of bath salts and the last word in lingerie sets, and I'll make, do with last, year's dresses and costumes." i s the watchword of twentieth-century E\l'. She iias learned that the glow of physical join de vivre is worth all the eouluriere's ail : and the daintiness and constant variety of the unseen garments is more essential to tier sartorial happi lies* thmi the dernier cri in hats. Proof is in .ill the big shops, with their virtual uniformity of millinery and modes, and their infinite. \anct\ of exquisite "lingerie Oiip can have a I'eini nine field day wifn a, limited allowance now that underneaths matter po much more, than lops !